Search results

Yes. You may have salt or sand in there. ​​​​​​​

Yes there are o-rings. It needs to greased well. Might have gotten salt in there. If it turns, you can pull it out with vise grips and a lot of wigglin

Here is what the crankcase of an M8B looks like: Do you have the dreaded M8A?

On the 3-carbed MFS25A, there is not any yellow wire feeding the overheat alarm. See p 60 of your owners manual, which you can DL from Tohatsu.com. It's the wire going to item 41 in the above diagram.

Yes. The shaft slides forward:

Bad ignitor, but that is very rare.

The stat on those is between the head and block:

Item 1-23 in the diagram is the mixture screw. 1-21 is the idle speed stop screw.

Year is irrelevant; Assuming your model is MD115A. That would be a 4-cylinder TLDI. Clearly you need someone more knowledgeable to assist you before you break anything else. Sheesh. You disassembled a 3T1040000M fuel pump. While possible to reassemble, you must have all the parts, as well as...

Why do you want to clean the pump? Here is what it looks like:

Yes, there is a strainer in the scepter tanks (US)

What overflow tube?

Looks like the wrong control box. This is the one you need. Note that there are two connectors at the motor end, plus the tilt wires.

Better get someone to help you. 369q611102 extension housing ul (amb) $77.72 3h6q610304 drive shaft housing l (amb) $198.90 3ab600030m drive shaft bushing $51.73

bpbuss33, I have been having issues with the PM feature. In answer to your question, the LU seal kit for an NS5B is: 369873210M LOWER UNIT GASKET SET $23.42

Leave the A (forward) bevel gear in there. It's retained by the pinion (B) gear, anyway. After replacing the propshaft seal and installing the new o-ring, reassemble the whole prop shaft assembly, including the push rod. If you have an A4, you also need the ball bearing. Then insert the complete...

1. Tohatsu/Nissan motors are serviced based on model/serial, not year. If you have a ball bearing in there you likely have a 30A4. The A3 usually did not have one. 2. The prop shaft housing is aluminum, not steel. It goes in and out as a unit, fully assembled, including the push rod. So after...

Sounds like you need a Factory service manual at the least, and possibly some local expert help. How did you test the oil sensor? Did you note the change in resistance when the tank was empty vs when it was full? In the wiring component diagram, the overheat sensor is item 21.