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  1. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Most everything sorted out at this point. Did some watersking with it this weekend. The Mk55 gives us just under 30MPH at 3000 ft elevation. Really enjoying the boat!
  2. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Like Sam's, my boat was missing the mid bench back rest. I did something a little different from stock, steam bending the top plank to match the deck profile when the seat back is up. It's also built out of a little thicker white oak (3/4" vs 5/8" - I don't have a jointer/planer.) One coat of...
  3. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    We got to do a little shake down cruise yesterday. Looks like I won't need those bilge pumps... perfectly dry boat! After some water pump work (lower unit issue, not the rebuilt powerhead) the 1958 Mercury Mk55 (55A engine) worked great too. More details soon, but I wanted to share a couple...
  4. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Varnish... (Look Ma, I can post photos again!)
  5. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Forming the aluminum keel/stem guard ended up being a lot more work than I expected. I have some thin aluminum bar stock on hand, that, cut in half lengthwise, was about the right width for the job. Cutting, grinding, and sanding the two resulting strips ended up being a lot of work however...
  6. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Another question for you Sam... When you attached the aluminum keel/stem metal strip, what hardware did you use? I was thinking aluminum screws to avoid dissimilar metal corrosion, but didn’t you use bolts all the way through?
  7. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    I’m liking the red. Need one more coat, but it has gone on easily by roller and brush. It’s West Marine BottomShield paint. Water based, so cleanup has been easy.
  8. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Ok... Thanks Sam. I'm just going to repaint the bottom. The fiberglass resin and cloth is a nice reinforcement really. I'm changing it to red to tie in with the motor though. I'll redo the registration numbers in red or white... maybe sand. We'll see. The mircospheres showed up and I used...
  9. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    I think I know the answer to this one already, but I'd be happy to hear otherwise. I really like the unpainted look for the bottom of the boat: But a previous owner fiberglassed the bottom of mine. I experimented today with sanding back down to the fiberglass layer, removing the last layer of...
  10. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    With the power head on its way to Utah after rebuild, I needed to switch gears to the engine case for a few nights. I used glass bead to clean off the old paint. This worked well, but my air compressor can't really keep up with sand blasting for more than a few minutes at a time (even at lower...
  11. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Also covered the screws in the transom and used mahogany plugs to fill the four 1/2 bolt holes the previous owner had drilled through it to mount the 70hp outboard. I'll fiberglass tape the below water line transom seam also.
  12. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    The motor is on its way to Utah from Wisconsin now. In the mean time I did a little more work on the keel... got a replacement layer of fiberglass laid down. First I brushed on a coat of CPES, waited a day for that so soak in and did another coat, then the following day a layer of the...
  13. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Looks like the power head will be home soon. I've got to keep moving on the hull repairs to be ready for warmer weather. (We had 4 inches of snow this morning, but I know spring is just around the corner.)
  14. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    I don’t have the metal strips, but it does have a cooling water intake for what can only guess would be an inboard engine setup?
  15. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Yes Sam, two drains in the stern. They work well, but you have to remember to close them before launch... not that I have any personal experience 😬. (Fortunately, whoever added the drain plugs also added a bilge pump... and an emergency backup bilge pump.)
  16. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Well... that took a little longer than I thought (hand driving 100 screws) but the transom should be water tight again!
  17. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Transom leak repair progress. (Thanks for the road map Sam.) I used a syringe to inject two part epoxy into all the screw holes so I can re-drill them when reassembled. Most were still tight, but enough where loose that I thought it cheep insurance. Once that sets up (hopefully later...
  18. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Bedding compound between the keel repair and hull, two part epoxy (thickened) on the keel mating surfaces. Will sand profile and add fasteners after this adhesives set up.
  19. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    Yeah, I'm not looking forward to varnish work up in the bow. :) Here's the keel repair roughed in. I've got final fitting to do, but I think it will work. Engine is progressing faster than I'm getting the hull list done:
  20. Chris in Utah

    1953 Wagemaker Wolverine

    The interior hull is in good shape, Maybe water got trapped in between the fiberglass and hull anyway, just from the cracked fiberglass on the keel. Regardless, I like your idea of a overlapping joint and metal strip as part of the repair. She has worn several different skirt colors over the...
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