14' SC Rebuild

[frazoo]

A beautiful day out with little progress to show for it (many honey-do's in the way).
Dry fit the new transom to mark for the holes, then got out the RO sander and wire brush on the drill and started cleaning off the transom. I didn't realize (until the wire brush got done), how much pitting there was on it. If I recall correctly, I can use marine tex or jb weld for the pitting? Is one better than the other? And, do I need to wash down the aluminum with something to counteract the chemical process that caused the pitting before filling the pits?
I moved the stanchion post (don't know if that is the correct term for it---what the winch is attached to?), back 8 inches to accommodate the new trailer length. The old bunks stood up on edge, the new ones are flat and appear to give much more support.
Started cleaning up the wheel fenders I had cut off so I can tack weld to reattach them (still hating myself for that misstep!).
Getting to the fun part now, layout and such.

 

[M2HB]

If you have changed your trailer length, and you already cut your fenders off, may I make a recommendation?
If you bought about 10' of 4" x 2" x 1/4" angle iron, you could cut that 10' piece into two 5' pieces. Then you could weld your axle spring shackle mounts to the bottom of the 2" side of the angle irons (instead of where they are now on the bottom of the trailer) and have an adjustable axle setup. You could make steps and fender mounts that weld directly to the 4" side of the angle irons so the fender, steps and axle all move together to give you the perfect axle location in relationship to the center of gravity of the trailer.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...-and-towing/10552418-restoring-an-old-trailer

 

[Watermann]

Winch tower.

I used lots of cleaning vinegar and fresh water rinsing after wheeling off the stinky corrosion (smells like dirty gym socks) and yeah marine tex to fill in the pitting. I also prime and paint the surface to protect it.

 

[frazoo]

It'the pits!

Getting everything scrubbed down and rinsed again, then I'll use JB weld as it's local (as in the shop right now), and starting to fill old holes in gunnel with the jbww ( nasty stuff by the way). Trying to order more hardware but finding locating what I want in the online store a particularly onerous task today.

 

[frazoo]

If you have changed your trailer length, and you already cut your fenders off, may I make a recommendation?
If you bought about 10' of 4" x 2" x 1/4" angle iron, you could cut that 10' piece into two 5' pieces. Then you could weld your axle spring shackle mounts to the bottom of the 2" side of the angle irons (instead of where they are now on the bottom of the trailer) and have an adjustable axle setup. You could make steps and fender mounts that weld directly to the 4" side of the angle irons so the fender, steps and axle all move together to give you the perfect axle location in relationship to the center of gravity of the trailer.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...-and-towing/10552418-restoring-an-old-trailer

That's a very nice trailer you ended up with. I may not go that far with this trailer, but I definitely see a couple of ideas I will use.

 

[frazoo]

Got the JB on the transom pits, got an order in for cleats, lights, seats and hinges.

 

[Watermann]

The 2 part JB Water Weld stick epoxy works best for plugging unwanted gunnel and transom holes. Just don't use it on the sides or bottom to plug holes as an impact could dislodge it.

Mix up a small batch of the JB WW, pinch off a bit, roll it into a ball press into the hole with your fingers on the other side create a mushroom. Once dried you can sand it down flush easily and no more hole. The only surface prep I do is to make sure the hole and surrounding area is clean, wiping it with a solvent before putting the JB WW on. For the underside use a new sharp piece of 220 sand paper, press firmly covering the hole and rotate your thumb making scratches for the JB WW mushroom to grab hold of.

 

[frazoo]

Thanks for that very concise description of the jbww procedure, made it easy to visualize.

Took the nasty, rust-infested winch apart and got it wire wheeled and cleaned up, and rust converter applied. Had to drill two 3/8" holes through the spool to accommodate a new strap with a loop end on it.

 

[frazoo]

Final fitting of the transom, primed and painted interior aluminum. Rain moving in will be working in shop to over drill and then fill transom holes.
Painted the winch and installed the new strap.
If rain holds off a bit will final adjust bunks and rollers and grind off the hanging bolster so they don't drag/snag something.

 

[frazoo]

Since I'm lazy, I found these in a drawer in the shop and remembering WM's instructions for a bit of sharp sandpaper under the gunnel to sand a keyhole around old holes for jbww to hold on, I chucked one in a small drill and had them all done in short order.

 

[frazoo]

deleted, double post somehow.

 

[frazoo]

Got the 1" diameter splash well drain holes drilled out to 1.25" and filled with jbww.

 

[frazoo]

Well, the rains are here and as much as I hate not being on the boat today the down time gives me a chance to clean and straighten up the shop a bit. "Broom time", is great for pondering (for me). I'm starting to think about color schemes, storage compartments, and types of paint to use.
I have three 'major' hobbies I mess about with in one small shop, doesn't take long for things to get out of hand. Hoping to uncover the new drain tubes and flaring tool I bought last year .
I've heard that messy people are creative people, don't know if that's true or not but I'll lay claim to it just as an excuse!
I know I'll be using the Rusto SE Primer on the boat, still contemplating the top coat, leaning hard toward the Rust-Oleum Pro unless I'm talked out of it.
Also starting to lean toward the idea of carpeting. Seems like it would quiet the boat down a bit, that can't hurt for fishing.
The seats I ordered from here are red and tan, so looking for complimentary colors along those lines.
Off to the salt mines!

 

[frazoo]

Found everything I had ordered last year and then ordered more "stuff" for the boat. I keep telling myself there isn't much more to get, and then another couple or three Ben Franklin's go flying away. I know the pain will disappear on that first trip to the lake.
I checked out Alabama Dad's thread, I like his forward raised deck, will try something similar on mine.

 

[frazoo]

A question, please.
I'm getting ready to put a second drain tube in on the opposite side of the knee brace (still don't understand their original placing, but that's a moot point now I guess). It scares me to death to drill a hole in the aluminum transom, so, what would be the best type of bit to use, and should I apply 5200 before using the flaring tool, or will it just squeeze it all out, so, would it be better to apply 5200 after the install? Thanks.
Oh, also, looking at the packaging pic, there is no thrust ball bearing, only flat washers, am I still okay without it?

 

[frazoo]

Never mind

 

[Watermann]

Never mind

What happened? Just use a hole saw drill bit, it does take some stones to start drilling a 1" hole in the transom :lol: Yes use 5200 and let it squeeze out.

 

[frazoo]

Thanks, after I thought about the bit for a bit, I remembered hole saws and went and grabbed one. Was trying to head off someone wasting keystrokes when I'd figured it out. Drilled the hole, will get it installed tomorrow. Getting antsy, July not that far away and I'm sloowww. :cold:

 

[frazoo]

Got the new drain tube in place. Drilled the 1"hole, then use the Dremel with a sanding disc to go around the hole to make the tubing fit but still snug.
The transom had handles vs stern eyes, I'll fill in those eight holes and drill four new ones for the u-bolt eyes once they arrive.
Going to mock fit the SW now and start laying out for rear deck and holds.

 

[frazoo]

During the winter, I had a large oak tree fall on my bench, I didn't want to waste it so I cut out two pieces for cross frame supports at the rib closest to the transom.