15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

[Redwing4900]

Traded for a 15 SC Holiday yesterday the registration says 1977, but I don't see a 77 anywhere on the Hull ID #. The last digits on the hull number are F6. Does that mean its actually a 67? Maybe I have it wrong: does anyone know what the formula is to read this? This will be my first aluminum boat, as well as my first transom redo, so I have a couple of questions. I did comb through the other transom posts but I guess my questions are more basic then what they covered. First, what is the thickness of the wood for this transom, my guess is inch and a half, but is that right? Where do I get replacement rivets? Do I need a special tool for the rivets other than a pop rivet gun, or is it a different tool altogether? I noticed others put starboard on the outside of the transom where the motor rests is that necessary? I had a piece of plywood there that must be replaced. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would greatly appreciate it. Pics on the next one...gotta get to work.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Welcome to the Starmada, Redwing. I use a free HIN validator from Boatfax. Download it and you check HINs easily. https://www.boatfax.com/content/view/81/61/

The transom is usually two 3/4" pieces which yields 1.5". The rivet tool depends on which rivets you're using. Larger rivets need a stronger than pop rivet tool. A lot of guys use a two hander from Harbor Freight.

Finally, the chunk of ply on the outside of the transom is a cosmetic thing, in my opinion. It adds nothing to the strength of the transom but what it does do is protect the paint from scratches when removing/installing the motor. Some guys have used the Starboard, some use plywood, some use a plastic cutting board if they can find one large enough and some use a piece of aluminum.

Hope that answers some of your Qs.

 

[64osby]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

:welcome: to another Michigan Tinny.

The transom should be 1 1/2" but it's always best to measure. I remember Jas having to redue his SN to 1 3/4"

If your talking about hull rivets, closed head rivets and yes the big gun is required. If your talking interior rivets, then a standard gun and aluminum pop rivets are fine.

Sam's Club sells a really big cutting board that others have used.

Post your HIN number, what's they paper work have on it?

Picture are required

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thank you for your responses. As I suspected and thanks to the "validator" I found that she is a 1975 model. The F6 is nothing, but the numbers before it 1275 means that she was certified in December of '75. The transom is definitely inch and a half, so how do I stick those two pieces of plywood together? I will not have a template available since its in pieces already and I don't have it all out yet. Is there a standard wood type for the transom and floor? If it was a '77 I wasn't going to do the floor, but since its a '75...! Anyway I'm not bitter, she was in good shape for a 77 but even better for a 75. My picture files are too large to post...I will have them on here in the morning. Thanks again for the help today. I can't wait to get this thing out on the water!

 

[dozerII]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Welcome Red, you can glue the two layers together with Gorilla glue and lots of clamps and weight to get a good bond. Make sure you follow the directions for the glue. Both pieces of wood need a light mist of water to dampen them for the glue to cure. You will probably find the transom in three pieces, two small triangles up in the corners and on large lower piece. Most of us make it in one piece for strength, I think Starcraft was trying to save money and use up scrapes. I choose to coat all the wood with three good coats of Spar varnish, others will say epoxy is better, you can choose which ever you want.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thank you for the info Glen, is there any certain type of wood to use for this? I ran into another vintage issue. There is no Starcraft Holiday for 1975. The dash clearly says Holiday 15, but maybe it was repurposed from another. I was thinking that the beam width would help with the mystery, I will post pics and the beam width shortly.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I think I figured the pictures out...its a 71" beam.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Here's a couple more...enjoy.

 

[64osby]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Looks like they sold Holiday 15's in 73 76 and 77. Manufactured in Dec. 75, click on the 76 and you will see basic specs for yours. It probably sat on a dealer lot until 77. At that time it was sold and titled.

Starcraft Marine Holiday - Holiday 15 Years

Looks like you have some nice composting material in that transom. A piece of thick cardboard or 1/4" ply will help make a new template.

 

[1973Chieftain]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Like 64 said, cardboard is very useful to make a template with. As for the wood, both transoms I've done I used exterior grade untreated plywood from Lowes or HD. I glued and screwed mine together, then coated with at least 2 coats of West System epoxy that I bought here on iboats. I finished off with a couple coats of paint.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

That's a super cool little hull.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thank you all again for your help. I was able to get the transom out today, that thing was soaked! I was chiseling away some pieces to coax it out and actually splashed myself in the face with some water! I plan to get the wood and glue tomorrow and start the transom build, and I also want to remove the floor tomorrow. The tear down is always the easiest isn't it?! I look forward to installing the floor after i leak check and gluvit this thing, and then seats, etc. Ready for a May day launch? You bet!

 

[64osby]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Just out of curiosity, what did you trade?What is the plan for power on your Holiday?Like most things tearing it apart is pretty easy. Putting it back together is not really hard it's just a lot of steps, and some of them are easy some are time consuming / tedious, and some are a pita because you're making changes to fit your needs. Have fun what ever you do.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I have done a lot of work on my house carpentry, etc. and this project here will be a joy-filled break from that. I will power the Holiday with a 1968 Evinrude 40 hp electric shift that I re-rung and brought back from the dead last year with the help of I boats. I traded a '74 Slickcraft away. This will be the motor for the Holiday...much more appropiate use.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I just finished taking the floor out...more soaked boards. The styrofoam was soaked too, and once removed it sure took alot of weight off. I was surprised to see that the original floor was riveted down, only because the PO redid half of the floor and used screws for his part. I was set on using screws, but should I change my thinking to rivets for the floor boards? I have seen some discuss a certain formula to determine how much styrofoam is required when you replace it. My maximum weight for persons motor and gear is 1300 lbs. The boat weighs 585 lbs. How do I figure out how much of the styrofoam to get for under the floor and where do I get it from? I saw on Dalton's rebuild that he used water noodles...is that good enough? I'm on my way to get some plywood and glue. Beautiful sunny day here in SE Michigan, perfect day to do this stuff.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I used deck screws to fasten down the decks in both of my restores and they worked well. Rivets would probably pull it a little tighter. Your bilge is probably so shallow that you won't be able to fit much flotation down there. Just get in as much as you can. I used noodles on mine but others have since done some research on how much dead weight a noodle can really float and it wasn't much. I think I'd use the foam boards if I did another one. You want EXTRUDED (not expanded) polystyrene. I've seen it in blue, pink, and green. White is the wrong stuff.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thank you EZ for that info. I got caught up in taking out the dash to replace the vinyl, and can't take it out!:mad-new: Maybe I didn't take enough aluminum off can be the only explanation. Do I need to take off the rub rail on the outside and then take the top piece of aluminum out so as to make room for that dash piece to come out? I was hoping to use the same one and just re-cover it, but the only way I can see to take it out is to cut it in half and then it would require another one. But even with that other one I wouldn't be able to get it in. Combing the other redos for info. Windshield is out...I thought would help out too.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Got some more work done...I'm glad the weather cooperated. Couldn't leak check and didn't have time for plywood purchase. Can someone tell me why I can't get the dash out from these pictures? What more needs to be removed? Almost ready for paint, definitely ready for leak checking next warm day.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I almost forgot...all of the styrofoam I pulled out, was so water logged as I was bagging it I wondered how much it weighed: 147 pounds! I would have had a perpetual extra passenger had I not pulled it.