15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

[ezmobee]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

There's bolts at the very ends but I'm sure you got those. Those pieces (the dashes in the runabouts and the bow area of the open bows) I swear were what the built the whole boat around.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I'm finding that out...stress on the dash is pretty stiff on both sides of it at the ends. So I agree with you EZ that the boat was an afterthought from there. I did get the end bolts...do you think I should remove the bow cover? I can't do anything until Saturday, so until then I can read up on it. It seems that the other rebuilds have everything off...rub rail, bow cover, everything. I didn't do that, hoping I wouldn't need to. I think I need to rethink my thinking.

 

[dozerII]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Key RW, I think you will find you have to take the aluminum bow cover off to get the dash board out. The dash has to drop in from the top because of the curve of the hull. To get the bow aluminum off you will have to remove the rub rail and channels. You will want to brace the bow some as the hull will want to loose it's shape when you take the skin off.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thank you once again Glen. Once I removed the rub rails and channels, the dash came right out. Now that I have the bow cover out I see that there are at least a dozen holes that will need filling what can I fill those with? I also need to have larger cleats, which will again require filling. I have never painted this large of an area before, on metal, can someone give me the basic steps for prepping For paint? For example I know at some point I have to wet sand, but when and what grit should I use?

 

[odyssey350kc]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

If you want to paint using a spray gun here's your steps

1. Strip off old paint, or sand down any spots where the old paint is peeling. Most people use airplane stripper which you can get at an automotive store. just paint it on and the paint will wipe off.

2. Prime any exposed aluminum with an etching primer,(most people just get a rattlecan) if your just painting over existing paint you don't need to prime it.

3. Spray your paint on. I did quite a bit of research and found most people online recommended acrylic enamel paint.

4. let it dry. If you have a lot of orange peel and paint imperfections you're gonna want to wet sand it down with 800 grit. do this till it feels smooth, now you can spray on your next coat. if it seems too bumpy and you want it smoother I wouldn't use anything less than 1500 grit its very hard to get out.

5. Wait a week or so for the paint to completely dry before you buff it out with a cutting compound.

Below is a pic of my bow after i wet sanded it, I taped off a section to see the difference before and after buffing

If you want a mirror finish some people say to put a coat of clear on top. This is what I did, and it looks great, however the paint without a clear still looks great too.

I'm sure someone else will chine in on roller painting.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thank you Odyssey for your advice. I have been following your rebuild, your paint came out beautifully. I will have to paint in a make shift booth like what you did. I must say looking at all of these parts laying around the last couple of days, I'm a little overwhelmed, and since its too cold to set up my tent/booth I can't get much done as far as paint/prep yet. I'm chompin' at the bit to get going, but in the mean time I can get everything in order and figure out how I will continue. What type of paint did you use, and did you prime with the etching primer? I like the idea of the clear coat mainly for another layer of protection and shine. Did you end up patching any holes? I have a couple of them that are 1/2 inch wide I will have to either cover or fill. What can I do with those?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I would not recommend clear coat (unless you're doing something crazy like Odyssey). It makes the inevitable touch ups more difficult. Also, I had pretty bad luck with Rustoleum's clear on my last boat.

 

[odyssey350kc]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

For the type of paint I used acrylic enamel. Here's a link to the website I got it from, 1 gallon should do your whole boat no problem.
Enamel Automotive Paint Kits: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint

As far as filling in holes, the only holes i filled were about 1/4" I used a stick of putty made specially to adhere to aluminum, let it dry and sanded it down flush with the surface.

I did use the etching primer, I got it from my local NAPA but they only had it in gallon jugs, and i used less than 1/4 of it doing the entire hull.

EZ makes a good point with the touch up and the clear coat, I used it because of my metal flake which needs to be buried with clear coat to make it look good.

 

[odyssey350kc]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Forgot to mention - If you go with a metallic paint it is much harder to spray, you have to do many many light coats otherwise you end up seeing drips, swirls, fish eyes and other things in the paint. It took me probably 6 or 8 really light coats of the metallic silver to cover the brown etching primer.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Thanks again Odyssey for your advice.
I finally was able to leak check and found maybe 5 leaking rivets, the seam around the keel leaked some, and the seam along the port and starboard sides on the bottom leaked some too. Will the gluvit do the job of sealing all of these from the inside, or should I also do something outside to seal these? What should I do first, paint the hull or gluvit? I didn't strip the paint from the hull yet, but I hope to get that done this week.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Any individual rivets you can identify as leaking should be rebucked. As for the seams, hopefully they're pretty accessible ones that can be hit from the inside with Gluvit or Coat It. After that's done, do another leak check and see where you're at. Sealing should be done before paint in any case.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

its been a while, but the weather is now cooperating, and I have no garage, so...I stripped the bow cover, but chose not to strip the hull and just sand and prime it. I'm half done with the hull and can't help but look forward to painting. I think I read here that if you are down to bare metal use the etching primer, but if you're not, use some other type of primer for the paint that's still hanging on...true?

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Red - All bare aluminum needs etching primer first. That includes spots, no matter how small with the AL showing. Regular primer next to fill and smooth the surface and finally your color top coat.

Glad the weather is coming around!

 

[barato2]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

^^^^^^^ like he said. just go slo and be fanatically clean and you'll be surprised how well your paint will come out. remember that once the boat is wet, people can hardly see drips anyway......

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I must mention that I will be leaving my Holiday in the water for 4-5 months at a time...bottom paint?! My friend suggested it today, I thought it was ridiculous....then I found it online. No! I thought I had everything lined up to prime tomorrow, but now I'm not sure I should. Has anyone done this? Would etching primer be necessary on the bottom areas, now that they will be bottom painted?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

This changes things. At minimum, you can forget about any single part paints. You need to go with a two-part true marine paint. We did have someone get gorgeous results with VC Performance Epoxy. As far as the need for bottom paint, it does sound to me like you'll need it but the only way to really know for sure is to talk to others who slip their boats on your same body of water because every area is different. If you do have to bottom paint it, be very careful in your selection of bottom paint and make sure you get something aluminum-friendly.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Yup, what EZ said ^^^.

Or, have you considered bare alum with Shark Hide?op2:

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Shark hide, huh, never heard of it...too late anyway now I put down some primocon from interlux going to follow up with trilux33. Pics attached of primocon. First coat of Trilux going on today. Trilux on, but not completed 80$ per quart...I'm getting cheap. It sure goes on nice though.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

Trilux33 first coat on completely project is getting rapidly more expensive thank goodness West Marine had the stuff at 20% off this weekend one more coat ought to do it. Transom pieces cut today...just need some glue and its ready. Paint will not come in until Tuesday, so I'm trying to stay busy.

 

[Redwing4900]

Re: 15 Holiday Transom redo, also Hull ID Question.

I was looking over all of my rebuild here and while I am disappointed with the title of this thing...I sure am thankful for all of the help that the starmada have provided me. I am wondering how to cover the transom board now. I see that some have said that they use the epoxy, but how? I saw today that West Marine has a product that seemed like it was made for the transom covering. So I guess my question is how? How do I cover the transom with the epoxy or is varnish going to be good enough to protect this thing?