150 Evinrude EXEOM 1995 - 2 part driveshaft removal

w2much

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I see in the manual that this engine has a upper and lower drive shaft. Can the upper shaft be removed without removing the lower shaft and pinion gear?
 

w2much

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Yes I want to know. So can the keeper mechanism be replaced when reinstalling a new shaft. ? Or is it just stuck down there in limbo.? Is this a practicle way to remove one shaft and install another?
My lower unit is bad, it jumps out of gear. I have another lower unit which is good but is from a 2001 200HP, its upper drive shaft is about and inch longer. Its lower drive shaft also has a different part number than my 150. So I am just trying to see what might work. I do not have the tools or skill to tear these units down.
 

daselbee

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First off, you have to have the two piece drive shaft ON BOTH LUs.

Clamp two big vice grips (side to side, touching each other) on the narrow neck at the top of the driveshaft, about 2"-3" below the top, but definitely below the splines.
Right where it narrows down. Don't worry about gouges, as this part never touches anything.

Take a heavy 3 lb maul, and drive it up against the bottom of those vice grips, away from the LU, and if you hit it hard enough, the upper driveshaft will come on out.
Like a slide hammer effect. This breaks the keeper.
Swap the DS with the one of your choice, and note that it will no longer be retained. Line up bottom of DS slots as necessary.

To actually FIX the broken retainer, the LU must be pretty much disassembled, maybe 80%.

Use this technique at YOUR OWN RISK.
 

w2much

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I have been utubing and reading the manual and perhaps shedding some fear of the lu. As such my questions may change or perhaps create a new post.
What are the consequences of a broken keeper in place and a drive shaft no longer retained? Have you done this and used an engine this way ? I realize the drive shaft can't go anywhere. On some of the engines I have worked on the entire driveshaft pulls out from the lower unit, nothing seems to retain them except the lower unit bolts . Of course they are smaller motors.
I take this boat offshore but i do have vessel assist.
Thank you for your reply, much appreciated.
 

daselbee

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Yes I have done it on a 1996 225 25" engine. Removed the driveshaft from a 30" LU, and put the 25" in, and bolted up the "new" working LU.

It is supposedly an outboard racer's trick to be able to change DS quickly in the field.

Re: LU fears....probably the worst part of the LU is pulling the rear bearing carrier out of the housing. Sometimes the come right out, other times oxy torch and hammers/slide hammers....and they still won't budge. One Suzuki 70hp I just had to finally break away the housing to get the carrier out. I was after the gearset.

Then there is the pinion nut. On an OMC, the pinion nut is in very close proximity to the clutch dog. They make a special wrench to fit in that tight narrow gap, make a good bite on the pinion nut, and then be able to turn the driveshaft to loosen and remove the nut. It has to be re-assembled and torqued in the same manner.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHNSON-EVI...m3d37ed565f:m:mb9NyzZ5RwxlaSbpD37VcRw&vxp=mtr

The rest of it is pretty straightforward wrenching. Pay attention to shims...where they are, and put them back properly.
 

w2much

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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I' m feeling the fear again. Looked so straight forward on u tube but he was only disassembling. Problems I see are removing the pinion nut (utube guy uses a regular wrench) then how on earth to torque that nut(must be a special drive shaft socket)
On the replacement lu which comes off a 2001 200HP both the upper and lower driveshafts have different parts numbers than mine (the 150exeom). And of course the shaft is 1" longer . I am just guessing that once my upper drive shaft on my 150 is removed it may not fit easy breasy into the 200 HP lower unit due to the fact that the 200Hp has a different part number than mine for the lower drive shaft also. The diameter of the shafts are the same but I am thinking that the 200HP lower drive shaft may be where the extra 1 inch in length comes from.Or maybe that both the lower and upper drivshaft on the 200HP are 1/2" longer each. Hate to start hacking before I gain a bit more knowledge and I certainly appreciate yours. Bought the tool to remove the bearing carrier .
 

boobie

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I believe it's the upper drive shaft where all the changes take place. The lowers are all the same.
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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BRP/OMC makes a driveshaft removing tool for pulling driveshaft, it just bend ears on clip and no harm will come swapping shafts....I myself and dealers been doing it for years...
tool.jpg
 

w2much

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so the biggest fear is fear itself ? The lower shaft part # for the 200 is 0345905 while the lower shaft # for the 150 is 0335677. That is what has gotten me started on what work may be involved. What shafts may or may not be compatible . And then of course is the issue of the shaft retainer. Very happy to hear that the retainer is a non issue. I guess I will just remove the upper drive shafts in both units and hope for the best. That way I can avoid even having to go into the actual gears behind the carrier or torqueing or removing the pinion gear and nut. That is what I am understanding here. Am I correct.?
 

w2much

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Do I not have to concern myself with shims ect as they are already in place on the lower driveshaft. I just pop in the replacement upper driveshaft from my 150 after removing the upper shaft from the 200? Is that all there is to it?
 

w2much

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I used the vise grip and hammer method for removal on both drive shafts. They both came out relatively easy. I switched out the 150 shaft into the 200 lower unit ,real easy. By the way as Boobie stated must just be the upper driveshafts where the difference in length occurs. It is all buttoned up. Started on the driveway shifted pumped water as it should. Waiting for carb kits then the sea trial. Will post again after the sea trial.
Do not take me lightly when I extend my thanks and appreciation for reading and replying to my post. Thanks again
 
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