19 Foot MFG Boat Restoration

[Woodonglass]

Thank you guys very much for your feedback! I got a grinder today SDS and a wire cup that you sugested in the list WOG and it destroyed the foam which is great. The list you gave me WOG is perfect! Thank you! I made huge progress today and got most of the foam cleared up so that there is just a fine layer I will blow away asap. I will grind down the remaining tabbing and then get the hull sanded down to fresh glass. I was able to seperate the splash well today, and it really did not take much of the transom off but it pulled off the glass covering to reveal the wood. Im not an expert but the wood looks like it is ok. What do you guys think? If it is ok, should I sand it down and re glass it?

I also did what you said to find cracks WOG and discovered two holes I must have made cutting out the stringers. What is the best way to go about filling them? Should I sand the rest of the deck first, or fill the cracks?

Thank you!

Just mark the locations with a Magic Marker and go ahead and prep the hull. Those cuts will be EASY fixes when the time comes. Replace the transom...You're already there!!! Your pics show that it has some delamination already starting.

 

[Chrismas Sko]

Ok WOG! Ill get on that ASAP. I will sand the rest of the deck first and get it ready. And then chissle away the transom and re -make it. Thank you!

 

[sphelps]

What do you guys think? If it is ok, should I sand it down and re glass it?

Thank you!

Yep like Woody said ... your there now ... That puppy is toast ..

 

[Woodonglass]

Here's what I'd recommend. In the area where the wood is still at full thickness, set your circular saw to just shy of that thickness and then cut a 2x2" grid into the wood. If you do this, you'll be amazed at how easily those 2" squares will pop off with a chisel.:jaw:

 

[Chrismas Sko]

That sounds great WOG! I will do that ASAP. I just went on vacation for a few days but will be back at it shortly! Will keep yall posted. Thank you so much for the help thus far!

 

[tallcanadian]

Another MFG. Great looking boat and great work so far. You are on the right path with Wood on your side. He is a guru. The work will be worth it.

 

[Chrismas Sko]

Im so glad to hear that! Thank you Tallcanadian. Its awsome to know Im on the right path and have great help!
I am back from vacation and have acomplished a few things. I had a lot of down time so I designed my boat using google sketch up so that I can build the deck and features I want and see how it looks. this is what I have so far:

 

[Chrismas Sko]

I also have some questions as I move forward. I have completely forgoten to plan for the install of a gas tank. I have a few questions. First, is it better to have an internal tank or external? I have reasearched both and I know that you need vents and all with internal. From what I have seen they sit Between the stringers and are bolted in on the sides with a gap on all sides to prevent them from wearing. My first question is, Which is better? If internal, how big, and how to install.

I want to make sure my boat does not crack or somthing due to poor weigt distribution if I hit a wave or what not. I think there would be space for a big tank under the center console also for a topside tank.

Thank you!

 

[tallcanadian]

Remember, if you are running a two stroke you need the proper oil/ gas ratio. So the internal tank, although will hold more gas, will need the proper mix ratio. Internal tanks are usually larger so fill ups are less frequent. It depends if you are running on an ocean or lake. No matter what you decide, try to have the tanks as forward as you can. External tank under the seat or console. An internal tank inder the deck ( floor) as far forward as you can. Perhaps under the console. Good looking boat.

 

[oldboat1]

I'll put in a plug for plastic (let's say non-metal) portable tanks. Permanent tanks carry with them all kinds of issues for fuel storage and fuel contamination. "Portable" doesn't mean the small hand-held 6 gal jobs, although it can. You can get a number of sizes and configurations to suit your needs, but IMO they will be less trouble for keeping a good fuel supply both during the season and between seasons.

 

[Chrismas Sko]

Thank you TC and OB1. So It is best no matter what type of tank to have it as far forward as possible, and to make sure it is accessible so that the gas mix can be done properly. I will make sure to remeber that. OB1 (and TC), do you recomend a "portable one" or above deck tank? I plan to use the boat for lakes and fishing in the ocean. I do hope to take it out for full days if that matters. With that said, I also do not want it to be high maintence, and if it needs fixing, want it to be easy. Thanks for the advice guys!

Update for today:
I did a lot of work today sanding and cutting the old tabbing on the stern. Its starting to look clean!


I am wondering what do do about this thing on the floor. Its fiberglass tubes that have foam on them. I would just leave it but when I got the boat it had no stringers after the flat part of the boat ended. So in other words, the stern had non. I dont know if that is customary or what, but I wanted to put stringers in that are a little taller than the ones going across the middle and bow, so that I can have a kind of elevated platform in the front (like the one in my cad renderings above). In order to put stringers in, I think I have to get rid of it. Do you guys know what it is?

Thanks!

 

[Chrismas Sko]

Also wondering what the best plywood type is to use for stringers, and if hardwood is better than ply for the stringers or the deck. I really want to make the baot as strong as possible.

 

[Shakedownscott]

Looking great Chrismas, you are getting a lot accomplished.

Those tubes are to stiffen the hull to keep it from flexing. If you replace them with a longer stringer it should be ok. Just don't remove them without adding something to support the hull.

Marine grade plywood wood be the "best" choice but it is very expensive. A lot of folks use good grade exterior plywood instead, probably about half the cost. Just make sure its exterior grade because it has waterproof glue.

 

[sphelps]

I agree with Sds .... Tubes are stiffeners ... They may have had wires running through them also .. A raceway from your cc to the front and back of the boat will aid in keeping thing tidy ... As said if you run the stringers all the way forward it should be fine to remove ... You going to pour in new foam ?

 

[oldboat1]

Thank you TC and OB1. So It is best no matter what type of tank to have it as far forward as possible, and to make sure it is accessible so that the gas mix can be done properly. I will make sure to remeber that. OB1 (and TC), do you recomend a "portable one" or above deck tank? I plan to use the boat for lakes and fishing in the ocean. I do hope to take it out for full days if that matters. With that said, I also do not want it to be high maintence, and if it needs fixing, want it to be easy. Thanks for the advice guys!


Thanks!

On tanks: Think I would suggest shopping online for the variety of tanks available, size and configuration. If you can run with removable tanks and get the capacity you need, I think that's a plus. There are bow tanks that might fit your needs, as well as saddle tanks, square ones and just about anything you can think of. 15 or 20 gallons of fuel is not portable, of course, but it's useful to be able to remove and clean empty tanks at the end of the season. See what's out there.

 

[Chrismas Sko]

Thank you guys so much for the responces. I will certainly surf the web OB1! I will look into the sizes, I think I have settled on external. I will also check to see if I can find that kind of plywood at Lowes SDS. Where where you able to find yours? I did take them out Sphelps! I am uncertain whether or not I will use foam, While I know it helps keep the boat boyant if swamped, I believe it was the reason for the rotting of the old stringers so I am uncertain whether or not I will put new foam in. I believe I might install a bilge pump instead just in case water gets in.

Today was pretty awful haha! It was hot and I started sanding with the grinder. Im not sure if I have sanded the middle section enough. I went at it for a good 4 hours with the grinder. When I tried to use my sander to finish it up, it didnt seem to be making any difference. I am wondering, Do I have to grind down untill I see 100% clean red glass, or have I sanded the area I worked on enough? There is a really tough film of dirty looking glass that is so hard to get off.



Also, Im wondering how yall recomend to stand in the boat when sanding, I try to stand right in the center to avoid putting stress on the outside of the hull.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[sphelps]

Have you put any support under the hull ?
You can get the pink or blue foam sheets and cut to fit under the deck if you want .. They will not absorb water ..

 

[Woodonglass]

For dust collection take a look at this from our "Sticky" Section..http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-collection-when-grinding-fiberglass?t=638442

 

[Shakedownscott]

I got my plywood from Homedepot. Lowes should have something you can use.

When I was grinding the hull I found it easier to lay or sit in it. Anyway you do it, its the most miserable part of the job, especially when its hot out. Keep up the good work and it will be done before you know it

I tried to grind it down to clean glass as much as possible, at least where I was tabbing in the stringers. Some of the grim will wash off with acetone.

 

[Chrismas Sko]

Thank you Sphelps, Mabey I will use those sheets then! I just dont ever want to have to take the boat apart again, so a non absorbent foam would be great. WOG that thread is great, I will try those in the future. Today and yesterday I just ground all day and then gently swept the dust to the back of the boat and used a dust pan and brush to scoop it into a trash bag. Worked well enough and due to the fact that there was no wind most of it was contained. SDS, I am going to go to Lowes and see what they have to offer, I think home depot would be the best option as they have a bigger selection. I have been grindng down to clean glass now. That seams like the right way to go! At least around where the tabbing will be.

Today was wild. Worked the whole day and I think I made a good dent! I will do more grinding the day after tomorow. My hands are killing and I think its time for a break. I wa looking at the boat today thinking about how awful it looked to start and now how I think it has hope. For sure would not have gotten anywhere without the help you guys have offered. Huge thanks. I am supper excited to get building.

I ground the center of the hull on both sides today down to clean glass, and in two days I will do the outside.




Im stoked about where the project is right now, and after grinding more, I believe the next step will be to remove an rebuild the transom. I have a few questions regarding that. Initially WOG you had recomended glueing together two sheets of .5" plywood. If I cant find one inch, what would the best glue be for that? PB? And also, what is the best way to secure the transom to the hull? I guess I will glass over the transom once it is in. Would three layers be good? And what type of glass would be best for that project. I have never glassed before so this will be a new experience for me.

Best