1943..ish...Correct Craft build

[SCduckhunter]

Hi All I'm Chris..I'm an avid waterfowler and live in coastal South Carolina and have been in the market for a nice top of the line hunting rig..My wife said i wasn't in that market so i gave up my pursuit of a new boat.We have large tidal fluctuations and strong current that make the needs of a boat very specific. About a year ago a gentleman i know was selling a homemade stitch and glue boat he had built for his son for hunting..I went and spent some time picking his brain...I then proposed to my wife that I build my boat..I wasn't in that market either...A few weeks ago a long time family friend of hers offered me a boat..The only caveat was that it remain a boat and its used as one as opposed to being scrapped..I'm young ,30, so i figured I can build myself a boat that will outlast my physical abilities to hunt..According to my wife I am in this market....

The boat.....According to paperwork the i have the boat is titled as a 1943 Correct craft..According to the manufacturer its a 1953..I'm going with 53 for the build process since that's the technology they were dealing with at the time. I know most guys wouldn't touch this boat because of the amount of known work its going to take..The biggest factors for me taking it on is that fact that I can create exactly what I want and ill know exactly where everything is and how its put together..There is no questions on any aspects of the boat when I'm done..And the fact that I have all the paperwork and documentation for it for the last 35+ years including current registration.

 

[SCduckhunter]

So after a full day of exploratory demo Ive found a few issues...Most are easily corrected..I do have a few questions..
Here is a picture


this is of the stringer.They were both hollow..I stuck a screwdriver down into a few holes and pulled up wet goo..si i cut the top off and found some old moldy wet foam..It isnt a closed cell its just like cheapy styro...



I left a large fan blowing on the hull overnight.When i came back out the next morning it had standing water in it..I discover that both chines had about 2 inches of water in them and were also filled with the junk foam...
I plan on using 6# density 2 part foam to fill the voids in the chines before i glass back over them.Any Issues or better ideas with that?
Im still trying to figure out what to do about the stringers..I don't know what route is best..cut out and replace entirely..Refill with foam and recap? Im just not sure..
Nest up is going to be transom work..I know I want to put at least a 40 HP on here..(I have a great running 1973 merc 40)..Need ideas on how best to do the transom

 

[Ned L]

It looks like you have a good candidate for creating a special built boat to meet you exact needs. Great project! ........... I will say that what you have is not 1943, and I'm curious about the 1953. As far as I was aware Correct crafts were still all wood in 1953 (and don't look anything like your boat). I would have guessed more like late 60's / early 70's.

 

[SCduckhunter]

Actually this boat model was produced from 1953-1957... for the US Army...its original purpose per the SOP manual is to carry 12 soldiers with field packs to shore with a crew of 3 either with paddles or its designed to carry up to a 25hp outboard...thats 15 guys in this thing!!!its an assault boat...

 

[Woodonglass]

How cool is that!!! You might want to do more research and consider restoring it to spec!!! That would be kinda AWESOME to have restored back to it's orginal configuration, paint and all!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

How cool is that!!! You might want to do more research and consider restoring it to spec!!! That would be kinda AWESOME to have restored back to it's orginal configuration, paint and all!!! http://nautiqueowners.com/forsale/details.asp?ID=2495&sort=&pagenum=329

 

[SCduckhunter]

I thought about a full restore and have contacted Correct Craft..If I were to do a full restore it wouldn't look much different than it does now..Except the factory color was OD green and the boat had 8 handles attached to it..The manual is an interesting read..There was no plug in it..Its basically a bathtub...No frills...Besides my wife would hate having another boat that i cant use just taking up yard space..as it is she has been threatening to go down to the court house and change our last name to Sanford....This will however become the baddest duck hunting rig in the area for sure..At least thats my goal

 

[SCduckhunter]

Question....How exactly do i make PB..I have been unsuccessful thus far in making it where it'll work in to fill the gaps and stay pliable enough to be filleted out...My father in law is assisting in the build, he owns an auto body shop, so i have tools. we are both just lacking in the finer details of fiberglass building..Just explain the proper materials and process please...oh I'm using Poly resin for the build..Thanks

 

[Corjen1]

I thought about a full restore and have contacted Correct Craft..If I were to do a full restore it wouldn't look much different than it does now..Except the factory color was OD green and the boat had 8 handles attached to it..The manual is an interesting read..There was no plug in it..Its basically a bathtub...No frills...Besides my wife would hate having another boat that i cant use just taking up yard space..as it is she has been threatening to go down to the court house and change our last name to Sanford....This will however become the baddest duck hunting rig in the area for sure..At least thats my goal

HAHA, my wife sings the Sanford and sons song every time she goes in the back yard.....Cool old boat!!!

 

[Corjen1]

PB is resin, mixed with cabosil and 1/4 in chop strand mat untill the consistency of peanut butter. Dont add the catalyst until you have the thickness desired....

 

[SCduckhunter]

Hey y'all quick question...when using biax 1708 is there a correct side up? I'm using it to tab in my transom and build layers up on my stringers...both the stringers and transom were completely encased in CSM per woodonglass s link and drawings.. I thought that woven roven and cloth was best when sandwiched between layers of CSM...Please just clarify thanks

 

[Ned L]

So it took me a while to get back here. OK, so that IS pretty Cool!!! (1953 would be your option, and not 1943. 'glass boats hadn't been invented in '43.) Enjoy.

 

[SCduckhunter]

Another question.. So what's the best way using PB to bed my new stringers into place? Line em up use a square and a level and "caulk" them in with a thick bead or run a line with PB then set stringer on top and lever of and square it up...new to all the fiberglass work...woodwork I've got plenty of experience with..I'm just concerned that my PB will kick and start to setup before I can get stringer set...thanks

 

[jbcurt00]

Temporarily fix the stringers in place w/ clamps/braces or whatever so that they won't move as you complete the PB bedding. They should be spaced up off the hull 1/4" w/ shims or bits of foam. These spacers are also temporary.

Once you have them placed where you want, and they are held in place. Use a zip lock bag filled w/ a quart of PB and cut a corner off. Like a masonry/pastry bag. Squeeze PB under the stringer between the spacers. If you start at the bow & work backwards to the stern, the PB may kick at the front before you finish. That'll be good. You can pull the spacers out once the PB has kicked. And then you can fill in the space left behind when you pull the spacers. At the same time you can also do the fillets.

Using a ziplock bag lets you mix & use 95%+ of a small batch of PB, so very little if any waste. And helps ya get the PB ONLY where you want it.

 

[SCduckhunter]

I'm a chef for a living..so I have plenty of pastry bag experience lol...I'll just bring our disposable ones home..that'll be perfect...and any answers to there being a correct " side up" using 1708? See above post..thanks.all

 

[ahmincha]

Hi SC you want the csm down so the biax up

 

[SCduckhunter]

Yea that's what I figured..so i can lay the CSM side down into the CSM that the stringers andtransom are currently encased..then jistjust top tje the biax with CSM correct?

 

[ahmincha]

You do not need the csm between 1708 layers being as how there is csm on the 1708. I also believe you do not need csm at all on your stringers. Have you checked out woodonglass transom and stringer layout Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms I am sure this will help you

 

[SCduckhunter]

Yes I made the transom and stingers exactly as he had diagrammed.. I'm using poly resin and I used plywood for both the stringers and transom... Before I even went near the boat with new transom I completely encased it in CSM..was going to do the same with the stringers only because Im using plywood..it is premium grade exterior not PT or marine..onestep down from marine..AC I believe what's its labeled as..was planning ontitebond 3 the plywood together use deck screws to hold it all tight and then encasing in CSM...I did "butter" all my wood with styrene thinned resin prior to laying any glass...

 

[ahmincha]

Sounds great it can only help I misunderstood I thought you meant in between each layer of 1708.