1954 15hp, Evinrude unexpected throttle issue

[Rwed]

I was in the process of checking coils and setting points on the motor, when i ran across this issue. in the pics it shows my throttle in slowest and fastest settings, as you can see when its full throttle, it's only half way on that (what do u call that fin that pushes the throttle cylinder out?) thingy. and when its all way down, then it travels way past the fin, and across the wires. as a result, i realized, that when i tried to start the motor earlier, maybe it didn't start bc the throttle is closed? bc, when i looked inside the carb as i moved the throttle back and forth and tinkered with different hole placements for throttle linkage, at best, i could achieve is just a fraction of opening compared to full throttle.
Confounded, i went out to the 15hp johnson i got running on my boat, and looked under cowl as i turned the throttle. on Johnson, the throttle cylinder traveled across entire length of the fin. Then i blew my head thinking about it, and posted it here. please help.

 

[Rwed]

maybe unrelated, but in the same motor, after i took off the flywheel to check the coils and points, i now realized that it's been worked on before. bc screw heads have driver dings in them. so, i got a feeler gage set, and also found out that one point is touching and the other is smaller than 0.02 that's written on the flywheel. how would that affect the motor? would it be able to spark? bc, all these issues came to light after i rebuilt the carb, tried to fire it up, and received nothing.

 

[Rwed]

Please disregard those posts, no throttle issues

 

[F_R]

Please disregard those posts, no throttle issues

Well, that certainly saved a lot of typing. Glad you got it figured out.

 

[Rwed]

between me being a noob at boat ownership, and noob at gas motor boat... i'm just glad i didn't make any long term mistakes yet, bc of F_R, others, thanks to this boat forum and youtue, that one video this other guy shared was sweet. after looking under the flywheel, i'm not sure if i even have an issue. i did get a multimeter to check coils and a torque wrench ... but i used harbor freight coupons i just need to google how to check coils (which look kinda good) and set points (which last video stopped short of showing) but i think, i'm getting close. Also, got a set of feeler gaeges, bc, i have a feeling, that it's not the last motor i work on..
i just want to express my thanks again to this community, and maybe my plight helps some poor soul down the road
I'm not done yet, but I have an idea that I will be. Of course then, I'll want a bigger motor.

 

[oldboat1]

Unless the coil coatings are visibly busted up, spend time cleaning and setting points. Make sure the coils are mounted properly on the posts (flush), then test for spark. You can do that by placing the flywheel over the key without torquing it down -- spin it clockwise by hand with a tester hooked up. Look for sharp spark about 3/8 inch with an open air adjustable tester, using a solid ground connection.

 

[Rwed]

ok, i've torn down the mag wheel completely bc i couldnt get it to spark while i turned. i had budy hold spark against motor while i turned the flywheel. and tested the coils w multimeter as per utube video, got like 6300ish ohm on both secondary loops, and low ohms on primary (i think i that's how it went down), but the numbers matched up to video. on condencers, i got infinite ohm reading, which kinda make sense , but i'm not sure. then i looked at the connection points for the wires... they didn't look great, corrosion. so i snipped back about half inch and i set the points after cleaning them with 320 grit sandpaper gently. So, if i'm not mistaken, i'm ready to put it back in. How flush to the coils need to be? previous owner, i realized finally, what was one of the issues, when he serviced the coils, he installed one slightly overhanging on one side, so when i pulled recoil, it would move my throttle nadle backwards towards kill, bc it was catching the magwheel, and pulling it with it. So , and that was before i tore it down, and was trying to see if i can get a spark, i've reset the coils,and made them slightly recessed. in other words, how flush they need to be? I'm probably putting it back together tomorrow.

P.S. what if i don't have adjustable air tester? for the spark test?

 

[F_R]

The coils are supposed to be flush, and that's where the special tool will put them. However, bearing wear and armature plate wobble will make them rub at the official clearance. In that case, it is ok to move them back a bit. But not more than past the slight bevel on the tops of the posts. If they still rub at that setting, you need to fix the cause.

 

[Rwed]

As i was putting the mag plate back together, i noticed, that it is missing that tiny oiler thing that fits on one of the coil posts, that is in that coil service video. is it bc of that tiny oil tube that runs up my motor?

 

[Chinewalker]

No - it is separate. The felt oil wick is there only to keep a thin film of oil on the cam, to prevent wear of the point rockers. The oil tube you refer to recirculates unburned fuel/oil from the bottom of the crankcase to the top.

 

[Rwed]

After putting back the mag plate, I tested the connections, everything good. Then I got the points set, and the coils flush.
Connected all the wires, double checked, the connection, and then put the flywheel to test the spark. NO SPARK. I'm mad.
I put multimeter on the plug wire and motor to test voltage and amperage spikes.. Sure enough, voltage and amperage both jumped as i spun the flywheel. on both plug wires. but no spark. the only thing i didn't verify 100% are condensers. i tested different spark plug to see if that was it. no spark. am i doing something wrong and not seeing it? i've rewatched the videos on points and coils.. coils are pretty flush, and no rubbing of any kind, there's 6300 ohm in primary coils at spark plug ends on both coils. When voltage spiked, the consistent high number was around 14 volts, but i have not the best multimeter

Pease, help. I'm so close to getting it running. carb is rebuilt, recoil is fixed, lower unit serviced.

 

[Rwed]

chinewalker: how important is it? it didn't come with the motor. is there a way to order just that part? or whole points set?

 

[Rwed]

Edit post: i am not sure the actual voltage. There was def voltage spikes as i turned flywheel. Just not sure what the voltage as i did not read it correctly

 

[oldboat1]

Plug gap is .030. Points are .020, set when the rub arm is at the high point on the cam, then repeat with other side. Clean the points with some lacquer thinner or acetone.

best to check for and measure spark with an adjustable tester (cheap):

 

[Rwed]

it says 0.02 on flywheel. i cant even get a spark. most videos give spark anytime u spin.i'm so confused. i don't know why i'm not doing this right.oldboat, i watched the video multiple times. i don't c the condensers. i think i'm missing something easy. its just a simple 54 evinrude

 

[Rwed]

i double checked the points. when it says "top" i adjust it to 0.02. then it gives me nothing after i spin it for a spark test

 

[Rwed]

so, only thing i'm missing is spark. and boy am i missing it.

 

[oldboat1]

"Top" isn't a mark used to set the points (cam can be installed upside down, so top means rightside up.)

The cam has an oblong shape, and the rub arm needs to be at the highest point when setting the points. Make sure the wiring is correct. Standing at the prop end of the motor, the coil closest to you is for the bottom cylinder. Wires for that coil are on the right. Same is true when standing in front of the other coil (top cylinder). Wiring will be on the right. Make sure all wiring is tucked down so it doesn't contact the spinning flywheel. When testing, install the flywheel down over the key (must be lined up with the key slot), and down where it would sit before final torque.

Wires need to be solid core, with the core in contact with the coil spike and the connector in the plug boot (spike through the wire in contact with the core.)

 

[oldboat1]

If you like to use a multimeter, set resistance for 1k ohms. Put the red needle in the plug boot, contacting the connector. Put the black lead somewhere on the mag plate. You should get 4 or 5K ohms. If no reading, you do not have a connection from the boot through the coil to the plate.

 

[lindy46]

i double checked the points. when it says "top" i adjust it to 0.02. then it gives me nothing after i spin it for a spark test

Set points when the rub block lines up with the flywheel key.