1956/57 evinrude sportwin 10

Evankees

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I've been working on this thing for awhile. Came with pressure tank. Had to get a gasket and parts kit. Went through the tanks gaskets as well. The tanks pump knob leaks fuel a little bit when I prime the carb. My question is... The engine will start when using starting fluid and it will pull fuel as I look through the carb. It then stops pulling fuel and dies out. This varies in length of run time. Any suggestions for which way is most likely the problem? Note I just took the carb back off. Cut a new bowl gasket and blew out the holes and slow jet.
 

oldboat1

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After it stops running, loosen the tank cap. There should be a hssss if it's holding air. The motor compresses air in the tank, not the primer button.
 

racerone

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Check filter.----As stated when the motor starts , crankcase compression is used to put pressure in the tank.----The bottom mixture screw should be out about 1 turn.----The idle mixture ( upper ) about 1-1/2 turns.----The motor should start with those settings.----Then you must fine tune after it warms up.
 

Evankees

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Thanks for the replies. ill try both and see how it runs. I know the factory needle settings and had it before. ill reapply those to double check. the main problem is keeping the fuel pulling through the carb. any suggestions for a replacement on the pressure tank cap gasket? if it had one or not i do not know. should the hole in the side of the cap be covered? it is a dual line omc like in this file. mine just has the cap and nothing else... i listened for fuel draining back into the tank but didnt hear anything. Again thanks for the help. my kids will surely be grateful. they love being on my little jonboat
 

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F_R

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Fuel does not "pull through the carb" as you seem to be suggesting. You fill the carb with fuel with the primer button so the motor will start and run till the carb runs out of fuel. By this time, there should be enough pressure in the tank to keep pushing more fuel to the carb and keep running.

The usual problem is an air leak somewhere in the tank, so like a leaky tire, the air leaks out and no pressure. You need to find and correct the leak. Soapy water is the common method.

As for the leak around the primer stem, it is because the support washers and stem are not sealing at the hole in the diaphragm. Several causes are possible.

1. Deformed support washers. They should be flat, except for the curled edges.

2. Often overlooked, the lower end of the stem must be FLAT where it contacts the support washer. They are often corroded and no longer flat.

3. Obviously, a loose nut. With that, comes another thing. The button is supposed to spin freely on the stem. If it is corroded and stuck, you have a tendency to rotate it while pushing down, which unscrews the nut off the bottom.
 

JimS123

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The tank needs to be 100% tight. The cap DOES have a gasket. If the primer leaks it needs a new o-ring as well.

There are also o-rings in the plug as well. Might also replace the 2-line hose if that hasn't been done.
 

racerone

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The hole in the cap is there to release the pressure in a controlled manner when you loosen the cap.----It should not be covered.
 

Evankees

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Ok so far I've reseatted the idle and high speed. The gas tank does hiss a bit right after the engine shuts off. I replaced the hoses to all connections two weeks ago. I guess my next step is figuring out if the tank cap gasket is necessary... Currently have a sturdy piece of cut cardboard as I didn't want the tank or connections blowing apart. Also is the pressure bulb o ring necessary as well? The only thing I remember without taking it back apart is the plate spring and diaphragm that it rested on. No o ring on the pressuring bulb.
 

JimS123

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Ok so far I've reseatted the idle and high speed. The gas tank does hiss a bit right after the engine shuts off. I replaced the hoses to all connections two weeks ago. I guess my next step is figuring out if the tank cap gasket is necessary... Currently have a sturdy piece of cut cardboard as I didn't want the tank or connections blowing apart. Also is the pressure bulb o ring necessary as well? The only thing I remember without taking it back apart is the plate spring and diaphragm that it rested on. No o ring on the pressuring bulb.
Re-read post #6, if you believe it. A hiss means that the tank is non-functional. The repair kit has 2 gaskets and 10 o-rings. Cost is $30. The cap has a gasket, a washer and a bolt.
 

Evankees

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Re-read post #6, if you believe it. A hiss means that the tank is non-functional. The repair kit has 2 gaskets and 10 o-rings. Cost is $30. The cap has a gasket, a washer and a bolt.
Sorry for being unclear it hisses when I open the cap. I will surely order one of those parts kits. Do you happen to have a link? All the ones I happen upon are ebay kits with only a diaphragm repair or the spring/ o ring repair for the line connection. Thanks again for the help
 

JimS123

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Sorry for being unclear it hisses when I open the cap. I will surely order one of those parts kits. Do you happen to have a link? All the ones I happen upon are ebay kits with only a diaphragm repair or the spring/ o ring repair for the line connection. Thanks again for the help
My guy is local, but ebay sells them as well.


I didn't take any time to research the cap gasket but you can get a brand new cap:


Personally, I just fix the cap myself. a small piece of gasket material and a scissors and viola.
 
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