1957 35hp Evinrude Lark Help

[Squirrel42]

This is my first 50s engine and I'm a little lost.. I found this old 1957 that needs some work, I'm having a hard time finding the correct parts. I find more information about the Javelins by Johnson and the Big twins by Evinrude. Do these engines share any parts with each other, at least around the same year?

Any good pages like Leroy's rambles that might be good for informative information on rebuilds for this engine.

The engine seems to be in alright shape, not much rust. pretty clean compared to some finds i have seen on the site.
Looking forward to throwing this on a 1956 Alumacraft FD I'm currently redoing the transom on.

Any help is appreciated, really looking for a good wright up on this engine.

 

[jimmbo]

Some shiny chrome and the hatch covering the mixture knobs and choke on the cowl are the differences between the Lark and the Big-Twin that year.

 

[racerone]

The JAVELIN is the same motor except for the cowling and cosmetics.

 

[Chinewalker]

You appear to be missing the seal between the cowling and belly pan. It's a slotted rubber gasket, quite thick. Makes for a much quieter running motor. Other than that, outward appearance is pretty good! You have the really hard to find part - the face plate! Did you get the wiring harness and solenoid box with it?

 

[lindy46]

I had one just like it. Excellent and reliable old motor. I can't remember how many times I towed in a stranded boater with a "newer" motor with that old Lark. Very easy to find parts for. I actually reverse-painted the backside of the hinged front cover as part of the restoration. You have the side medallions (at least one of them) which are also difficult to find. Mechanically, I'd go through the usual starting points: Check compression - should run 115-125psi. Check ignition - coils, points and condensers and clean/replace as needed. You can take a look under the flywheel without removing it by removing the small cover on top of the flywheel. If the coils look good, clean and adjust the points right through the window. Set points to .020". Then check spark - make sure she jumps 1/4" gap with a spark tester. Clean/rebuild carburetor. Install a new water pump impeller. Change oil in the lower unit. If it looks like there is any water in the lower unit, get a seal kit and be prepared for some work.

Good luck! If you need help, there are lots of folks here that can advise you on specific issues.

 

[Squirrel42]

I really appreciate the quick advice, I had a feeling it was just a cosmetic difference with the Big Twins and JAVELIN.

I am missing the gasket around the hoodChinewalker, I guess I will make another one from some gasket material.
It did come with the electrical box, but it is beat and pretty much trash, I'll have to figure something else out.
Both medallions are there, I have read they are rare and hard to find, that chrome really got me, both are in good shape for there age.

Headed to the store tomorrow to buy a compression tester and spark tester, I'll have to you-tube how to use them.

There was no oil in the gear case and a lot of honey colored oil coming from the exhaust, very strange and has me worried.
This was only noticed after two car rides on her side and propping the engine back up.

I'll take a closer look tomorrow and get back to someone, anyone.

Thanks

 

[racerone]

Pressure test the gearcase to look for leaks.-----Come to think of it on a 60 year old motor you might as well take the gearcase apart for a seal kit.----Nothing to it.

 

[lindy46]

If there is oil in the exhaust housing as you describe, after laying on its side, chances are the gearcase is leaking through the driveshaft seal or shift rod seal, or both. You will want to pressure test the gearcase to see where the leak(s) are. Don't discard the electric box - is the starter solenoid in there? If so, you can re-wire everything pretty easily. Also, if you have the wiring harness and electrical connector that plugs into the motor, keep it, as they are hard to come by. If you had to replace it and the wiring harness with a reproduction, it will cost well over $300.

 

[Squirrel42]

I'll head to the Auto store now and get a Compression checker and spark checker..
I will have to build some home made pressure tester for the gear case I guess.
Total newbie to outboard engines, I have rebuilt my share of carbs, and changed a impeller once, I'm getting there!

Wont get rid of the Electrical box, but it appears to be missing the start switch according to the diagram.

I need help figuring out what this damn piece is, I cant find a diagram of the throttle linkage even if my life depended on it.
I posted a picture down below.. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I did my best to find it on my own, I failed!

 

[racerone]

First picture is where the throttle cable attaches to.----And you set your happy idle speed with the threaded bolt.

 

[Squirrel42]

What is the name of that part, i cant seem to find it.

Checked engine compression, I'm only reading 55psi. is there anything I can do get it higher? I have to carb removed, but i read that is not a problem. I also have no fuel lines conected. I know 55psi is not good, but is it really bad?

 

[racerone]

Fact-----Compression testers do not all behave the same.---Did you pull it over with the recoil to do the test ?---If so did you disable the compression relief ?---Few shops will work on these labour intensive motors.---So you have to be patient and learn to maintain this simple motor yourself.

 

[Squirrel42]

Success!!
110psi both cylinders

Racerone, I cant thank you enough for just taking a second to help, you saved me a lot of frustration.

Disabled compression relief and tested with the pull start with about 5 pulls each cylinder.

I bought some marvel mystrie oil, Should i go ahead and pour it into the spark plug holes and soak anyway?
How do I go about removing oil from cylinders after soak?

I guess it's time to pull the fly wheel and check under the hood. before i move to the lower gear situation.
Unfortunately both auto parts stores did not have spark checkers. I figure I should just replace it all anyway.

 

[racerone]

Inspect / test everything before spending any money for parts.---Be a shame to spend big $$ and find that your last scheduled project on it is a " no go / deal breaker"

 

[Crosbyman]

http://boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manua...ohnson.html#/0

old johnson book ... probably the old RD 35 hp model will look much like a twin brother maintenance wise

 

[Squirrel42]

I checked out the coils and every thing looks like it's in fantastic shape. I am not familiar with setting points.
I guess I'll just search the forums unless you know a good page or video.
Next I'll leak test the lower gear case, I'm sure it's in need of new seals, and of course impeller!

 

[racerone]

Search for----------timing universal magneto-----------

 

[Crosbyman]

try pages 45 and up in the old johnson book for info ...




in my oldies I just turn the crankshaft till the points "rubbing block" reach the peak location of the cam lobe. This is pretty much when the rubbing block hits the middle of the cam lobe TOP marking

I then set he gap at 20. using the excentric screw ... the one nearest the capacitor bse screw .

just loosen the other screw just to permit movement no more.

set a 20 feeler blade and adjust by closing the points on the feeler blade .... tighten all screews and recheck for a 20 openning bu rotating the crankshaft lobe


more shophisticated methods are availble with a voltmeter and pointers tools but I never had any issues with my oldies
they all idle and run Ok

lots of good UTUBE videos if you search for them

do not forget to oil the little felt pad with 2-3 drops of oil and DO NOT LOOSE THE FELT CLIP $$$$$$$$$$

 

[oldboat1]

Go to the stickies at the top of the page here, and look around -- a lot of information, most of it in mom and pop language. Similarly, look here: http://www.leeroysramblings.com/index.html. youtube videos can be helpful, but need to be selective -- some out there by cajuncook are very useful, and would look for those.

 

[lindy46]

Wont get rid of the Electrical box, but it appears to be missing the start switch according to the diagram.

That's an original Junction box and looks to be in pretty good shape. You've got the connector - that's a big advantage. It's pretty easy to wire from the box to the starter switch. Look on Ebay or go to AOMCI classifieds for a starter and choke switch. That motor just had pushbuttons to start and choke it - no key. To stop the motor, you pushed the choke button. If you don't care about keeping it original, pick up a couple waterproof pushbuttons at a tractor supply store. Or you can easily adapt a later model keyswitch for added security.