1957 35hp Evinrude Lark Help

[HighTrim]

IF there was no seal, you would empty your gear oil pretty quickly!

Regarding the plate, good habit to seal them down. I use 3M 847. Mainly to aid in keeping air out of the pump. A little bead of 847 as well, around the circ of the seal, before you press it in.

 

[oldboat1]

I sometimes resurface the mating surfaces of the impeller housing and plate (top and bottom of the plate), just to make sure there are no nasties -- used to be more careful about that with salt water motors. Not as aggressive as resurfacing a head cover before reinstalling, but same process (piece of wet/dry 400/600 grit on a flat surface). It's hard to tell what a PO might have used before when installing, and in any case it's good to insure everything is flat and level, with no skid marks from a past impeller problem. But that's just me. Can use a touch of sealant if you like, as suggested above -- no RTV sealant. I like the OMC gasket sealer.

 

[lindy46]

No Title

Built a Gear case pressure tester for kicks.. It leaks through the shift rod seal and the gear rod seal. No rust in the case, just a little water mixed with gear oil.
All the seals are blown, but what can the expect from an engine that's sat for 30 or more years.

I uploaded a picture with something i cant explain, maybe damage maybe not?

Found a great review on Shift rod seal replacement but nothing on the seal under the pump.
Does this new seal kit come with the seal under the water pump?
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfinde...n_id=934600853

Pic number one is not the clutch dog - it is the cradle that rides on the clutch dog. Clutch dog is part #28 in this diagram:

 

[Squirrel42]

Got some great information, currently waiting for the gasket and seals. All the gears look good and the clutch dog is clutch! I'll be removing all the old seals in the next couple of days before new ones arrive. I have a pressure tester to test my work before i carry on my resaraction.

Moving on to FUEL LINES.. I want to switch to to a single line from the double. The information I keep finding for modification is for lower HP motors.
Not finding a lot on converting 35hp 1957s.

I finished my carb rebuild and want to make sure it does not need to be removed again if I install it tonight.

Questions
1.What is the correct fuel pump to buy?
2. Can I use the Honda 16700 with out drilling into case? It's so cheap!
3.Do I need to plug any nipples for the other style pumps?

I'm pretty lost since it came with complete rotted lines no longer connected to the fuel filter.

 

[HighTrim]

That style Honda pump has many variations, and can be used on the smaller HP motors, but will be unsuitable for a 35hp at WOT. You will have fuel delivery issues.

Your easiest option, would be to find a bypass cover from a fuel pump motor, and then simply swap the bypass cover and pump which is mounted to it. Then swap the fuel connector at the motor, and run the new fuel lines.

You will need to leave a few inches of line on the old pressure line, that ran from the bottom of the intake manifold, to the connector, and block it off, as it will no longer be needed.

Some replacement pumps you can use if you find a suitable bypass cover are 18-7352, or an OEM pump, that is a 2 barb pump.

If you cannot find a bypass cover, you can either drill/tap your existing bypass cover, install a barb, then run a pulse line to a 3 barb fuel pump, which you will need to mount somewhere, such as a 18-7353.

OR.....

fill your existing bypass cover with JB Weld, build a plate, which you can mount your 2 barb fuel pump to, than attach said plate/pump to the bypass cover.

 

[Crosbyman]

I have done a few lower HP models but the procedure is the same. The pump on a plate is probably your best option. you need to line up the pump's rear pulse port hole over the plate hole and mount the assembly over the drilled hole in the bypass cover . replace the bypass cover bolts if to short with slightly longer one to seal the plate properly over the bypass cover (use some gasket sealet) . this will ensure no air loss during the pulses.. push and pull action. don't forget the pump's rear gasket between the pump body and the plate. use a plate around0.125 thick


pull the bypass cover and try not to damage the gasket .... layout (DRAW) the perimeter of the bypass cover on the aluminum plate plus an extra 1/2 inch all around . this will allow for the drilled mounting holes.

Use the bypass cover bolt holes as your template to mark the hole locations on the new plate. Clamp the bypass cover and the plate to ensure precise hole markings with a center punch.

Make sure the pump location will not interfer with the cowl or any mechanical movements

 

[Squirrel42]

What is all the talk about the bypass cover, is this just for mounting the fuel pump? Id like to go with the 2 barbed fuel pump, There was a fuel filter that was already mounted, can i just use that hole to mount the fuel pump if its not blocking throttle?

Do I still need to drill out a pulse line and add a barb for the 2 line fuel pump?
Can i get away with out mounting the fuel pump and just running new lines?
All the videos are for small engines and showing people removing manifold and check valve and blocking one side.
Is that necessary for the 35hp?

I'm just extremely confused with all the methods. Is there a pulse valve on the 2 barb pumps that needs to be plugged or fed into the bypass cover?

 

[Squirrel42]

No Title

Is this the conversion bypass cover i need? and mount pump on other bypasscover or is this just for 3 barbed fuel pumps?

 

[racerone]

That is a bypass cover.----If you mount the CORRECT pump you can use the pulse port on the back of that pump and then 2 hoses.--One hose for fuel in and one hose for fuel out to the carburetor.-----Or you can mount a 3 barbed pump close to a bypass cover and use a hose for the pulse port.

 

[Crosbyman]

No Title

on smaller engines like i did on my 5.5 the air PRESSSURE nipple used to pressurized the old 2 line tanks must be plugged with a short piece of hose
with a small bolt inserted and tied down with a tye wrap.

this is done when a 3 hose pump is used. the "new" pulse line will alternate push/pull to activate the new pump's diaphragm.

on a 2 line pump mounted directly over a bypass cover hole you drilled out the pulsing air will arrive directly into the pump body like the square OMC pumps
found on most small engines. yours will work the same just larger fuel flow of your thirsty 35

 

[Crosbyman]

No Title

side mounted Briggs Straton on a 5.5 where i used the modified
pulse nipple behind the carb and one air channel epoxyed close

 

[HighTrim]

If you modify yours, DO NOT use the method shown on line, of modifying the intake manifold. It does not work well. I cannot tell you how many I have had to fix. Only do that on the smaller hp motors, where you do not have a removable bypass cover to modify or change.

Yes, what you showed in your picture is a bypass cover. If you get one from a motor that had a fuel pump, it will be drilled out and ready to go. You then simply swap the new bypass cover with the fuel pump mounted on it, for one of yours. Doesn't matter top or bottom, wherever the pump fits better. Then plumb it, change the fuel fitting, and plug the old pressure line as mentioned with a bolt, plug, etc...

Easy Peasy.

 

[Squirrel42]

Thanks High Trim..

My engine came with a fuel filter mounted on the top bypass plate.. Can I mount the correct 2 line pump with out drilling a pulse hole?
The bypass plate i posted a picture of already has a pulse hole drilled and a nipple mounted for a line. is that something i need?

Do I need to drill a pulse hole in my bypass?
Or do i just need a hole for mounting the pump?

The new pump would connect to the fuel line in and exit to carb and that is correct right? No pulse holes needed?
Than I just need to plug the pulse hole from the engine manifold and I'm set.



I'm sorry if my questions sound stupid, but I'm extremely confused on what to do here.

 

[HighTrim]

Is the picture of the bypass cover you posted one you already have?

Whomever had that plate, had a 3 line fuel pump. The hose that would come from that barb, would go to a pulse barb on the pump. Then the other 2 lines are fuel in and fuel out.

The difference with that and a 2 line pump, is the 2 line pump has a hole in the back of it, and when you bolt it to the bypass cover, that hole lines up with the hole in the bypass cover. There is where it gets its pulses from to run the pump. In that case, you would obviously need a hole drilled there.

So, either get a 2 line pump with a bypass cover that will accept it with a hole drilled in it, or a 3 line pump and mount a barb on it like you pictured. Either will work exactly the same.

Ideally, the 2 line pump is better, as you simply mount the pump on the bypass cover and call it a day. No need to mount the pump, run a pulse line, etc... Just my opinion though.

No such thing as a stupid question on here. You may get stupid answers from time to time though, depending on if we have had our coffee or not

 

[Squirrel42]

No, that is not my bypass cover. Just one of the many crazy modification I have seen looking for the correct one for my 35.

You just broke it down and made it extremely simple, not knowing how the fuel pump worked was throwing me. I didn't know the two line pump had a pulse hole in the back and that I needed to have the hole drilled in my bypass to use it.

Done

Now can i just use my bypass cover to drill into or is it safer to get a extra one for drilling in case it gets fudged?

 

[Squirrel42]

No Title

Here's a side view of what I'm working with

 

[Crosbyman]

it is just a hole.... no major accuracy needed just make certain the pulse port hole in the back of your 2 line pump will sit squarrely in front of the middle hole of the bypass s cover. ( where you have 3 holesside by side middle one is for the pulse port and needs to drilled out whereas the two side ones will receive mounting bolts. if not tapped only they will need to be tapped.

the official pump will have the side mounting holes and they will line up with the bypass cover mounting holes you tapped.

Bolt everything up and you are done (plug the old two line pulse port behind the carb as explained previously and install the pump rear gasket )

 

[Squirrel42]

No Title

Thank you for the help Crosbyman, I think i got it all down now. Glad I don't need to add any extra hoses or remove manifold.

It was good for me to remove the bypass and check out the piston as well, everything inside appears great and minimal carbon build up.
Just need to buy a seal puller,and a thread tapper and I'm back in business.

Now I will go back to restoring the old 1956 Alumacraft FD and take a break from the engine for a few days.

 

[Crosbyman]

it should fly nicely with a 35 (seems that boat was rated 40hp)

 

[Squirrel42]

The 1973 15hp Evinrude pushing the girlfriend, dog, gear, gas, battery, and soon added kicker engine was just not going to cut it.