1957 7.5HP Fleetwin (7522), Running a tad rough

[Bwana Don]

Just picked up a 1957 Fleetwin 7-1/2 HP (7522). Was sitting in a guys garage for a year or two. Had not rally been run. Was bought from an estate and just never used. The estate owner (deceased old guy) made a list of all the work that was done to it. it's been converted over to single line fuel.

I ran it on muffs in the driveway Saturday and I took 10 pulls or more to start it. Ran it for 1/2 an hour. It won't idle real low. I though maybe it needs some sea foam run through it. Well it snowed 7 inches in Detroit Monday, so the motor is in the basement now. Winter came early .

This motor will be used as a kicker/troller for a 16' Fiberglass boat. We will fish the St. Clair River for walleye and Lake St. Clair for smallies. This will be the back up in case the main motor (1968 55 hp Evinrude) won't start. Worst case scenario is 1:00 Am on the River and I'm in the shipping lane, the main motor doesn't start. This kicker motor needs to start up. My 15yo has nicknamed this motor "Blue Lightning".

 

[Bwana Don]

In the basement we have looked this motor over. My kid wants to play with it. Well we talk about spark and compression and gas. So I check the spark with him. Nice blue spark and a pop. Checker is only 1/16th gapped. I move it out to 3/8" and no spark, 1/4" no spark, 3/16" and blue spark again. Is this ok? Shouldn't it spark at 1/4"?

Compression check: We did a compression check. Motor was cold and dry. Both cylinders checked 60 PSI on 3 separate tests. Being dry is this even a valid test?

Bwana Don

 

[Bwana Don]

[No message]

 

[F_R]

Remove the tin cover from the flywheel and peek through the hole. The coils will either be old and cracked or they have already been replaced. All originals will be the former.

 

[F_R]

In the basement we have looked this motor over. My kid wants to play with it. Well we talk about spark and compression and gas. So I check the spark with him. Nice blue spark and a pop. Checker is only 1/16th gapped. I move it out to 3/8" and no spark, 1/4" no spark, 3/16" and blue spark again. Is this ok? Shouldn't it spark at 1/4"?

Compression check: We did a compression check. Motor was cold and dry. Both cylinders checked 60 PSI on 3 separate tests. Being dry is this even a valid test?

Bwana Don

You ran it, so it isn't "dry". 60 psi is about minimum if you did the test correctly. But it started and ran, so it probably isn't too bad. Hopefully.

 

[Crosbyman]

great motors obviously a carb overall is needed compression number may come up after a while or run a good decarb like Merc Powertune

lots of good utube out there new impeller likely needed (play safe) see video attached not that complicated to do

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVOedhzPP7M

the carb low speed section needs to be opened up and inspected/cleaned properly (drip chamber on top see picture

points needs to adjusted and timed see video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cj...ature=youtu.be

points are set in thousands not usually to use fraction go for 0.020 clean & adjust and try.. possibly still very good

any cracked coils must go some chineese copies are not expensive



https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2x-Ignition-...item21605f2051

get the book CHEAP OUTBOARDS perfect for that motor imho anayway

https://www.amazon.ca/Cheap-Outboard.../dp/1891369628


again... Great find great motor great project

 

[Crosbyman]

[No message]

 

[Crosbyman]

when pulling the pwr head to service the impeller careful not to loose or damage parts on the drive shaft (carbon seal seal plate gasket etc,,,

 

[Bwana Don]

I ordered a set of points, condensers, plugs and wires for the magneto from Vintage Outboards. Also a carb rebuild kit. I did not order coils, the estate owner had written on a piece of paper all he did to the motor. He wrote that there were "Good German coils" in it all ready. Plus I have a set in my toolbox just in case.

Did I miss anything? I'm going to see if I can get that spark to jump 1/4". Maybe start on the first pull too.

 

[Crosbyman]

carb kits don't always have floats…. I have coated old ones with crazy glue (2coats) seems to be holding up

dry them out properly sand down a bit to scrape loose cork and recoat with 2 coats of the thick glue type..

CAREFUL with fumes !!

do the impeller ! and match the powerhead base gasket if replacing it… (different patterns by year)

 

[oldboat1]

'56 hood, so PO's list might contain info. Maybe important only if you or your son wants to detail.

 

[Bwana Don]

'56 hood, so PO's list might contain info. Maybe important only if you or your son wants to detail.

 

[Bwana Don]

Got the repair manual (Ken Cooke reprint), and owners manual from Ebay. All ready had the "Cheap Outboards" book.

 

[Bwana Don]

Ordered Points and condensers, along with wires and plugs for the magneto. No coils.
Ordered a carb rebuild kit and will bring the ultra sonic cleaner home from work.
Ordered impellar kit.

Here's a shot of the magneto.

 

[Crosbyman]

most of the info u need is in this book

http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/johnson/manuals/1922-1964johnson.html

 

[lindy46]

Looks like magneto parts have all been replaced. Clean and set the points, then concentrate on the carb.

 

[oldboat1]

^^think that's right. Weather permitting, it would be good to try it between points work and carb -- might narrow down any issues, or may find a carb cleaning isn't needed right now. (I would stay away from Sea Foam or other solvents.)

gas/oil ratio on the 7 1/2 is 16:1.

 

[Bwana Don]

Changed the points and condensers, along with plugs and wires. I had bought a timing tool and ring to set the coils.

 

[Bwana Don]

Spark will still not jump 1/4". Will jump 3/16" with a snappy blue spark though.

 

[oldboat1]

Recommend checking the coils. Set your meter to 1K ohms on the resistance scale. Place the red lead in a coil boot and the black lead up on the magneto plate. With the magneto fully assembled, you should see around 5 or 6K ohms resistance with a good coil.