1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

[Crosbyman]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

loosen the bottom screw ONLY !!! to disconnect shift linkage

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Shift rod bolt must be taken out !

 

[Crosbyman]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

didn't say loosen only.... said loosen bottom screw only.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Gear position does not matter.----You need to remove the rear cowling to find one bolt.-----Shift rod nust be disconnected through window/s on the side of the motor.

That worked! Thanks!

Here are some photos.


The seal on top of the impeller is bad, the one that leads into the gears looks ok

This part fell out when I pulled the lower unit. anyone know what it is? Where it goes?

I don't know if it's visible, but there is a small chip out of the side of the impeller case, should I try to find a replacement or not worry about it?

From this parts diagram, it looks like I might be missing some parts. There was no #31 - o -ring or #27 at all.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

That is the drive key for the impeller.--It also appears to be a new updated impeller housing.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Shift rod screws must be taken out for the shift rod to come out.-Either one is OK----On reassembly the notch in the shift rod must be lined up with screw hole before installing the screw.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

That is the drive key for the impeller.--It also appears to be a new updated impeller housing.

ok, thanks!

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

#31 o-ring on top of the housing is very important. If missing, it won't run correctly with the hood on.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

O-ring # 27 fits in the groove at the spline on top of the drive shaft.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

#31 o-ring on top of the housing is very important. If missing, it won't run correctly with the hood on.

Looks I got some parts to get, do you know if it's necessary to order one, or could I just buy one at the hardware store?

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

O-ring # 27 fits in the groove at the spline on top of the drive shaft.

So would I see #27? Or would I only run into that if I removed the drive shaft?

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

You should see that on the drive shaft when you removed the lower unit !----That O-ring #27 should be in the groove on the driveshaft.---It fits at the top of the driveshaft as mentioned.-----It seals the joint between the spline on the driveshaft and the spline on the crankshaft.-------Keeps grease in and moisture out.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

You should see that on the drive shaft when you removed the lower unit !----That O-ring #27 should be in the groove on the driveshaft.---It fits at the top of the driveshaft as mentioned.-----It seals the joint between the spline on the driveshaft and the spline on the crankshaft.-------Keeps grease in and moisture out.

The driveshaft didn't come out with the lower unit, it's still on the motor...so if the seal is on the TOP, then I wouldn't see it, or would I??

Was the driveshaft supposed to come out? Thank you for the help, I'm new to outboard motors and learning as fast as I can.

 

[racerone]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

The driveshaft must come out with the lower unit !--It usually does too.--Nowadays on motors that have had no maintenance or proper care there are some that stay in there.------You must remove it for proper re-assembly.-----If it is rusted in there it can be a chore to pull it out.-------Then the next thing to consider is the condition of the spline in the crankshaft.----If it is badly rusted ( carbon steel ) then you may have a short lived / parts motor on your hands.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

The driveshaft must come out with the lower unit !--It usually does too.--Nowadays on motors that have had no maintenance or proper care there are some that stay in there.------You must remove it for proper re-assembly.-----If it is rusted in there it can be a chore to pull it out.-------Then the next thing to consider is the condition of the spline in the crankshaft.----If it is badly rusted ( carbon steel ) then you may have a short lived / parts motor on your hands.

Ok, I understand, thanks for the help. I'll try to pull it out tomorrow, will update.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Oh, and I forgot to mention. #31 being missing could have contributed to the problem you are having with the drive shaft. With #31 out, exhaust (and water) blows up to the area where the drive shaft slips into the crankshaft. That can cause excessive rusting. However, somebody usually discovers the problem because of the poor running before the rust gets that bad.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

Oh, and I forgot to mention. #31 being missing could have contributed to the problem you are having with the drive shaft. With #31 out, exhaust (and water) blows up to the area where the drive shaft slips into the crankshaft. That can cause excessive rusting. However, somebody usually discovers the problem because of the poor running before the rust gets that bad.

Thank you, I bought this at auction with no idea if it worked. If it does, I'm WAY in the black, if not, then I break even, the boat is an aluminum 16 ft Starcraft 1973 in great shape. For me, it'd be worth putting another motor on it to get it in the water if this doesn't work out. That's a whole new thread though, I'm keeping my fingers crossed it's not rusted in.

 

[oldboat1]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

that's the closed bow runabout I think -- nice boat. Opinions: think you shouldn't give up yet. Cleaning terminals, rewiring to the extent needed, maybe replace key switch (but seems unlikely), maybe solenoid. Don't mess with generator. The driveshaft may just be stuck, and you can work it out if you struggle with it a little more -- probably just stubborn. See what the lower unit oil looks like, and let it thoroughly drain. Driveshaft seals are pretty easy if needed.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

The chip in the impeller housing, and the loose drive key, is because you had to force the gearcase down since the driveshaft is stuck. So, you busted through the impeller housing with the key to free it up. As stated, not normally done like that.

So, now flip the motor upside down, and spray some good penetrating oil down the driveshaft overnight. I sometimes hang them upside down by the drive shaft, about an inch or so above a pillow or foam to break its fall if it does break free. Sometimes hanging it, along with hitting the drive shaft with an impact hammer does the trick. Hopefully it is not badly seized.

 

[vcaptain]

Re: 1959 35hp Evinrude Lark - ignition wiring question

The chip in the impeller housing, and the loose drive key, is because you had to force the gearcase down since the driveshaft is stuck. So, you busted through the impeller housing with the key to free it up. As stated, not normally done like that.

Ahh, that makes sense, I thought it was the shift lever that wasn't giving, wrong. Thanks for the advice on how to get it out, I'll try that out tomorrow. Do you think I should replace the impeller housing? Assuming I can find one.