1965 Pacific Mariner 16'

[rk970]

Just picked up (Well my wife did) a 1965 Pacific Mariner. Of course it needs a new floor, Transom, and stringers. I figure a boat of this age will have rotten wood.
Got a Merc 800 for free.. My friend told me it needed a starter. I was able to fix the starter by cleaning up the brush plate and freeing up the pinion.
Compression is about 160 ish +- 3lbs.. Not bad for a free be..
Transom as far as I can measure is 1 1/4" thick, The floor is 3/8" thick.
My plan is to laminate a 1/2" and 3/4" ply for the transom. Make new stringers out of laminated ply.
I can get vinyl ester resin locally. Epoxy is out of the question due to I have a mild reaction to it (and I don't want it to become severe)
I have many questions because I have never done any repair on a boat like this.
1. approx how many gallons of resin does a repair like this take?
2. I need chopped fiber (making fillets), CFM weight? , cloth type weight? phenolic/micro? Bondo glass ect..
I just need an idea of how much resin and glass to buy to get started. I don't want to buy way to much or to little..

This place is about 36miles from were I live..
About Us

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Nice Score on the Boat and Motor. Should be a worthy project.

This should help get you started as well as the first link in my signature below.

(Click the pic to Download & view the PDF File)

View attachment MaterialsList.pdf

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Did I read that right.. 15 to 20 gallons of resin.. For a newbie like me that seems like a lot..
Thank you for the info..
rk

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Yep you read that right. It takes 1 gallon of resin to wet out 4 yards of CSM and or Cloth/Fabric, and That's if you don't waste any and are frugal with it. Most beginners use to much resin in the beginning. To do the deck on your boat will take approx 6-8 yards of CSM, then there's the Stringers and the Transom which require both CSM and Biaxial Fabric and the Filleting etc.. It all adds up faster than you think. Your initial order should be 10 gallons and then go from there. Once you start glassing and filleting you'll soon get the feel for what it's going to take. You WILL be surprised! Just remember this...Once you're done, she'll be better than she was when she came from the factory, and she'll last for decades. You may have $3K invested but...Where can you buy a NEW boat for $3K today??? and she WILL be like New when you are done.!!!!!

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Ok bear with me here. The yardage you quote is the square yardage right.. like a 50" wide roll of 1.5csm will take 18yards in length to equal 25 sq/yards. ?
I am going to do a few measurements to determine the total sq/ft of both sides of the transom, deck and stringers.
One other question I have is I am leaving the cap on the boat.. what is the best way to support the hull until the deck is back in place.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

To support the hull you can either add supports to the trailer or build a cradle and move her on to it. Take plenty of measurements before hand so you can ensure she goes back the way she was.
This link has a lot of info on Cradles.
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/boat-hull-cradle-help-584635.html

Don't forget to read the first link in my signature. It tells you about how to install everything and the recommendations for how many layers. i.e. your deck should get 1 layer of CSM on the bottom and 2 on the top. Like I state, it's not written in stone, only recommendations on how I do it and how some of the pro's here on the forum have recommended doing it over the years.

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Got the transom out tonight (I will post pics soon) .It took about 3 1/2 hours with a 1" chisel, wonder bar and hammer.
Got 4 sheets of 3/4" Arauco for about $35 a sheet..
The transom will be doubled up with tight bondIII for 1 1/2" thick.
The center stringer also will also be doubled up to 1 1/2" thick.
Some questions
Is 60grit to corse/fine to prep the fiberglass before I put in a new transom?
The stringers out board of the center keel stringer are 3/4" thick. The problem is they are longer then 8' Is it ok to scarf (12:1) the plywood to make the stringer longer?
I know what PB is and I can use it for bonding the transom back in (with CSM). What is PL? I assume it the the loctite brand of construction adhesive, Pros-cons of using it? What PL # there are a few types?
If I go the construction adhesive route for the transom do I first use 1.5oz CSM and let the resin cure before bonding it in or do you just bond it in?
Rk

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Hi and welcome rk970...
After a few trials and tribulations with PL {yes, it is the Loctite Brand adhesive and the the Premium version is the one used}, many have come to the conclusion that, due to the lengthy cure rate of PL {72+ hours} and some problems that have shown up with out-gassing of the product and causing some delamination of layers of CSM placed on top of PL that may not be fully cured, PB is fast becoming the primary choice.
Technically, PL is a construction adhesive, while PB is a better adhesive for our marine applications and can be mixed up to whatever consistency is required for the task at hand, plus it can be worked on as soon as it starts to set up...you do need to work quickly with it, since it is a time sensitive material, but once you get the hang of mixing and using it, it is a better product to work with, IMHO...
I'll be looking forward to your progress.
Best of luck and have fun!
GT1M

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Ok no PL then.. I am ordering my resin and glass supplies.. WOG sent me a bill of materials. He stated as an example 25yards of 1.5 CSM. Is this square yardage? I can get it in 38" and 50" 18 yards of 50" equals 25 sq yards..
Can I assume it is square yardage in his recommendation?
RK
(ready to hit the order button)

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

No! It is linear yardage...3 ft. x 50" = 1 yard of material
50" wide is the preferred size...although some like to use the 38"...but you should increase your linear yardage/square footage by the difference...
25 linear yards x 50" wide...equal to approximately 312.5 square feet...I think...I have never been to good at figuring this stuff out...I'm sure WoG will be along soon to confirm or deny...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Yep, I meant 25 yard of the 50" CSM which would equal 75 linear Feet. NOT square yds. You could start out with 18 yds or 51 linear ft and see how far you get. I'd start with 10 gals of resin and go from there. I would NOT use the PL. Stay with the PB. It'll take about 1 1/2 quarts of cabosil per quart of resin to make the PB so I'd order at least 5gallons of cabosil.

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Yep, I meant 25 yard of the 50" CSM which would equal 75 linear Feet. NOT square yds. You could start out with 18 yds or 51 linear ft and see how far you get. I'd start with 10 gals of resin and go from there. I would NOT use the PL. Stay with the PB. It'll take about 1 1/2 quarts of cabosil per quart of resin to make the PB so I'd order at least 5gallons of cabosil.

I ordered 12 gal of low profile ISO poly.
20 yards of CSM
12 yards of 1708
3 gal of cabosil (I can get some locally when I run out)
1lb of 1/4" chopped strand
1/2 x 3 bubble buster
24 3" chip brushes..

Since I live in the Pacific Northwest what can I do about colder temps. Mid 50's are very common.
I blocked sanded the inside skin of the transom with 36grit. I took a break for the night, felling a little overwhelmed with it.. A good nights rest should cure that.
Thank you for all the help.
Robert.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Do you have a R/O sander or a 4 1/2" grinder. If not you really need to get them. They will save you a ton of effort and work. Post up some pics so we can see what you're doing. I think your order is "Spot On"!!!

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

I have a 1/4 sheet palm sander, 4 1/2" angle grinder (flap discs from 36grit to 80) Right angle and straight die grinders with many bits ect (air compressor to run them) 3" cutoff, various sized spray guns, Sawzall, drills, circular saw, compound miter saw, chisels, files ect..

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Some more pics. Is there an easier way to remove the bottom paint other then sanding?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

I'd say you need to grind off that lip around the transom and you'll be ready to install the new one once all you materials arrive.

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Little more work on grinding..
How does the tabbing lay up schedule work?
I have cleaned up 6" from the transom as you can see in the pics.. (over the old tabbing)
Lots of air pockets and resin rich areas under the old tabbing of the transom.
Any comments/suggestions on how I am doing?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Looks like you are doing a really good job...

To get into the tight corners you can use a drill or a rotary tool, like a dremel, with some round shaped carbide burrs or sanding rolls...

Look to 'WoodonGlass" signature for the lay-up schedule...

 

[rk970]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Grind and grind..
So the left vertical corner was packed with straight resin. like the CSM did not extend into the corner form under the transom plywood (it stopped about 1/2~3/4" from the corner). As we know thick resin will have cracks in it (many) and voids. Right angle die grinder, some carbide bits and I attack the resin (it is like 1/4" thick with many cracks in it from shrinkage). There is now a trough from the transom skin into the corner..
Before I Put the transom in could I level the corner to the transom skin with hairy PB or lay in a little csm then PB over that?
Does all PB have chopped strand in it?
Do you grind all the old tabbing out or just grind and scuff it.. ?
Rk

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Re: 1965 Pacific Mariner 16'.

Grind and scuff is usually all you need...get down to the fresh glass is all...
Most PB has hairy fibers thrown in as a strength additive, similar to rebar in concrete...not always needed...you can use just thickened resin without it as a filler/fairing compound, and if you use microballons in it, instead of cabosil, it will be much easier to sand...
If the void is rather big, I like to mix up a bit of hairy PB, slather it in the void, then lay a piece or two of torn CSM over the top while it is still wet and just smooth it out with some straight catalyzed resin...