1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

okay, now for my .02 cents since i am doing what you are thinking about right now...............
I bought the 15' Princecraft scamper last year, it was not bad, got it with a Karavan trailer and a 6HP Johnson fisherman motor............

okay, on to this year, Transom was SHOT , so i did this with 2 pieces of oak to build it up to the 1 and 1/2 i needed ............
So far, i have 2 coats of Pettit Hi-gloss varnish with 3 coats to go until done......... also, I used 5200 to seal all screws and holes going through the transom .


Now the PO had build a floor in the boat using 3/4 by 4" boards and 1/2 runners to lock it together , it looks like this..........


this is what the PO had in her, i need to refinish it this week ........

finally , i used Mag and Aluminum cleaner by Mother's Earth to clean every square inch of the outside of her to make her shine again............


this is way easier than a total tear down and total rebuild , in my humble opinion ?????

Dave

P.S. welcome to the forums, and restoring these puppies is a lot of fun, and here, people are very helpful, and smart as well........

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

i PM'ed you the site for the parts ya need for the merc, but i recommend the whole water pump, not just the impeller, IMHO

Sorry, Bob, my apologies............

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Hi Dave...thanks for your ideas and information. You've done a nice job on your boat so far. I'm thinking I'd like to get rid of one of the bench seats in mine but, need to research it a little more to make sure I won't fudge up the structural integrity. It looks like the bench in front of the tiller is a possibility. I never intend on having more than one other person in the boat with me and hopping those benches is a pain. I checked out the marineengine website and can't see the catalog? Hmmmm, I'll keep trying...maybe the site is down. Thanks again for your input I can take all I can get.
~Bill

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Any weight you place inside the boat makes it heavy and subtracts from the capacity.......... people do not walk around in a 14' boat so carefully consider the deck.

Please do not turn this thread into a motor repair thread. Please, start a new thread to cover your OB in the Mercury OB section.

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

actually i used just cheep pine wood, put together and laid in, there is actually 3 sections each part, weigh less than 3 pounds per section ......so i only added 8 pounds to the boat by doing this

i recommend against cutting out a seat for 2 reasons ..............

1) there is foam inside the seats that adds to the ability to float that puppy if all goes wrong ............

2) structural reasons of course.............

there are never more than 2 of us in my boat, but i sit in the back, and the middle seat holds my cd radio, and tackle box so i can change on the fly...............also a handy dandy cutting table, foot stool , and kitchen counter too

i am thinking bigger next year, but for now, i have a blast with this machine.............. i have a 9.8 Tohatsu motor on mine when i have company and a 6HP Tohatsu when i am alone..............

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

I’ll answer the question from the PM here.

I did mine in a way I wouldn’t recommend to anyone else, I only did it this way because I had the materials and knew how to do it. I used a honeycomb core placed on aluminum supports going across the hull, the hull was also foam filled under the core. I then glassed over the core and up the sides of the about 4” onto the aluminum. This created a water tight tub, there are no holes in the floor for anything, but there is a spot near the transom plug where water can get to the foam (not good). My boat is a bit of a different design than what you would typically see and has more room even though it’s only 15.5” long.

There are a few ways to do the floor in one of these aluminum boats, none are wrong, they just vary in cost, labor and skill. The way I did it is costly and a little difficult. I normally recommend doing it cheap and quick, this doesn’t mean it won’t last a long time though. ?” plywood placed on a few supports and painted, this can be done for a hundred bucks or so in an afternoon. It can also be re-done in 7-10 years for a hundred bucks and even less time (it goes faster the second time) if needed. If you make the floor sections easy to remove (size and shape, plus bolting it down isn’t needed), then they can be pulled out and allowed to dry and be stored indoors during the off season. If you do this they will last just about forever.

You can easily put more money into building the “ultimate” floor than what the boat cost, or what it would be worth after doing it. It’s also common for a person to spend the money do all this work, then sell the boat in a couple years to get something bigger, so you lose most of the money you spent, not to mention the labor. If this was your sixth or seventh boat and you knew exactly what you wanted then selling it for something else may not be a factor. But a new, or relatively new boater rarely knows what type of boating they actually enjoy and it often changes after a year or so.

I just helped a friend re-do the floor in his 20’ aluminum boat, it’s a bigger version of the type you have with 150hp tiller Merc. It had been plywood covered with vinyl, this was the second vinyl floor, vinyl doesn’t last all that long under heavy traffic. He replaced the plywood with diamond plate aluminum, since there is more flex in the aluminum he had to put in extra supports. To hold the floor in place we put Velcro on the all the supports and on the back side of the aluminum, it has worked very well and he can pull the floor up any time he needs to. He just had a vinyl wrap put on the hull today and it looks great. Here’s a link.

http://www.piscatorialpursuits.com/...onew/1/ROTTEN_CHUM_BOAT_WRAP_PICS.html#UNREAD

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Don't over think it, cut the plywood to fit, put it in place and then see where it needs support. A few simple braces and a little framing will work fine. You don't need to bolt it down, the weight of it will hold it in place. You can put some sheet foam or noodles under it if you want, there isn't much room under the plywood in a small tinny. Carpet will get wet, hold water and then rot the wood, just use some porch paint with a little grit for nonskid.

You may want to rethink this method. Loose floatation foam under a deck that isn't fastened to the hull is absolutely worthless, if the boat starts taking on water the foam and decking will float right out of the boat and will be left floating on top of the water while the boat is sinking to the bottom.

Rad, as narrow as that boat is your max capacity is going to be very low... probably 600 lbs. max.

It is ill advised to launch your boat in salt or brackish water without a galvanized trailer.

Your boat has more corrosion on the exterior on the hull right now than it will get inside in 10 years of foam and no paint or Gluvit.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

This looks great. In the pictures of your boat I see a lot of bolts, a small angle, etc that look like steel. Steel and aluminum don't play well together. If it was me I would spend a few bucks and replace all of that with SS or aluminum. Fresh water use is not as bad as saltwater but we all still have acid rain which can turn those dissimilar metal joints into little batteries and the aluminum will go away first.

On those small aluminum boats the seats are strucural as Dave said above (held the sides of the hull together) and ALL of the flotation foam is in them.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

You may want to rethink this method. Loose floatation foam under a deck that isn't fastened to the hull is absolutely worthless, if the boat starts taking on water the foam and decking will float right out of the boat and will be left floating on top of the water while the boat is sinking to the bottom.

His bench seats are the places to put the foam, added foam under the floor can be anchored, or the floor panels can be secured in place with a simple method, not a hundred screws or rivets, this is what I'm getting at.

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

just remember , if you go my route, use regular pine only.

Knotty pine, or any hardwood will just add too much weight and be useless, like Bob said earlier........

mine had/has Knotty pine in now, and i am replacing it with regular pine, staining it and then varnishing it............

each section has 3 parts, the middle, bigger, and the sides, smaller. this allows you to walk anywhere, without losing any space underneath at all...........

just a comparison, regular pine section weighs 11 pounds, the regular pine version , a mere 3 pounds..........
since my boat has 8 sections total , i am cutting a whopping 64 pounds off the boat ..............

i take them out before winterizing, leaving them in my basement, so they will last a longgggggggggg time

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Thanks guys...I just realized I had a page 2 of replies....hmmmm. I did mention I was a newbee right? When I put it in the water last year I didn't realize the motor was fresh water rated. When we did our little tour of the harbor I was thinking how low it sat in the water. My wife and I weigh about 300lbs total and our gear about 50 lbs. Then with the gas tank, electric battery & motor add another 150 lbs. So we probably had close to 500lbs in the boat. I can't read the identification plate as it got covered when a previous owner added the aluminum plate to the back of the boat for additional strength. I thought I had maybe 750lbs. rating. If it is in fact only rated 600lbs. then maybe the floor idea is not something I ought to consider.

It is kinda narrow and was a little tippy without a floor. I grew up with Grandparents who owned a cottage on the Chesapeake Bay near Deale, Md. I spent a lot of time on the water as a kid....but, everything we rode in was made of wood! I have good friends who have a place at Piney Point, Md. and get to go out with them over the past 20+ years and they own fiberglass. I know to wash everything out after use and keep up with the maintenance on anything. Still, aluminum is completely new to me and you guys are giving me a schooling....thank you all. I may try Davem3's method with boards...cheap, easy and easily replaced.

I'm pretty intent on Steelflexing the exterior (bottom), sanding the outside, buffing and polishing then painting the upper portion. On the inside I want to use Gluvit. I'll double check all the rivets and replace them if needed before I begin. I saw all the rust and figured that's easy enough to replace with stainless. I might as well replace the tiller with oak. I'm not going to put too much into the boat but, when I sell it to the next owner it will be as safe as it can be... and clean.

Still, foam is appealing and if I can get it under that floor somehow it will sure help with the sound proofing. I'm slow to go and won't rush my decision and as "Ondavr" pointed out, no sense in over spending beyond what the boat is worth. Lastly, hopping over that bench in front of the tiller is the one I'd like to loose. I'd still have the tiller bench and the two up front...most boats I've seen in my size only have three benches. I found a 1967 Montogomery Wards catalog on eBay and boats are listed. I might go ahead and get it as it might have more information for me to use. Again thanks for everyone's suggestions. You've all given me a lot to think about and I truly enjoy hearing everyone's opinions and suggestions.

I promise you all one thing, this is going to be one nice little boat once "we're" done. "Jigngrub"...I only do overkill and I usually find a way to do it cheaply. If you all want to meet me in a home building forum using salvaged and recycled materials we can start a whole new thread...lol.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

When I put it in the water last year I didn't realize the motor was fresh water rated.

No such rating. All motors are rated for both salt and fresh water however, there are some saltwater series that have been enhanced to slightly different specs.

Isn't there already foam under the seats??? Adding more will accomplish nothing.

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

when you have a chance, give the exact length and width of the boat, the widest part should be around the center seat, and i will see how close you are ...............

here is mine:
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Center Line : (14'-6")
Beam : (58")
Chine Width : (45")
Max. Depth : (21")
Approx. Draft : (13")
Transom Height : (15")
Approx. Weight : (150 lb.)
--------------------------------------
NMMA (USA)
Max. H.P. cap. : 12 kW (15 H.P.)
Max. weight cap. : (750 lb.)
Max. person cap. : 4
Max. weight person cap. : (548 lb.)
ALUMINUM THICKNESS
Bottom : (.051")
Side : (.051")

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

I have a buddy with a newer (90's) 15hp Mercury he'll sell me but, if the Merc110 runs well I'll probably hold off until my next boat. .

15HP is the highest i would go with in the 2 stroke models, i just bought 2 new Tohatsu's a 6HP for when i am out by myself, and a 9.8HP when i have friends and company on board.

i went with the 9.8 over the 15 because of the weight on the new 4 strokes, the 9.8 with electric start and charging system is only 88 pounds, just 11 pounds more than my johnny 15 used to weigh, a 15 was way more than i wanted to strap on her.

the 9.9 is a awesome workhorse, and should be no problem in salt water, but hose it down and flush it out every single time you go in, no matter what, trust me , you will thank me later

"Thanks guys...I just realized I had a page 2 of replies....hmmmm. I did mention I was a newbee right?"
we all were at one time, we all were...............

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Removing a bench from a boat like yours is a bad idea Rad, that boat was designed for those seats to be structural and removing one will weaken it.

Have you checked under your benches to see if there is even any foam there? There may not be since your boat is a mid 60's model, or it may have crumbled out from age. Have you got a camera with a flash so you can take a pic under there for us to see?

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Hi Bob_VT, I came across a website that stated the motor was designed for fresh water...I can't remember the exact wording. All the information I'm getting is from websites, forums and folks like yourself so, I really have much in black and white to go on. I picked up the service manual on CD and to be honest I have found that just about all the parts are obsolete...i.e. I found an impeller but, no one has a kit. We'll save this discussion for another thread as I've been reminded not to turn this discussion into a OB thread. Thanks for your comments though I appreciate all the help and information I can get. There is foam under the seats.

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Hi Jig...Just about every boat in my size has 3 bench seats. I'm waiting to see what I can find out from a 1967 Montgomery Wards catalog listing my boat. If it was offered in a 3 bench version as well, depending on the placement (difference) of the benches I'm thinking it might work. By removing that one bench it would make a world of difference in the maneuverability around the boat. Don't worry, I wouldn't do anything until I'm 100% convinced it will be safe. I might have to reinforce the rivets that attach the benches to the hull but, I really think it might work. Nevertheless, I will proceed with caution.

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Hey guys...I found this in a search today for rivets. I had to print screen to get the image. Loof at the way this guy built his floor in a STARCRAFT boat just like mine! Any ideas? Cypress or teak? Pine & epoxy resin? I could cut marine carpet panels and lay them in there and take them out when not is use. I went out to my boat today...forgot to cover it last night and it rained...anyhow, it's really sunny and just about burnt my hand on the bench seat. Another "gotta-do-something-about-that" project. Ideas?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Sorry rad, no image attached of a screen captured image

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Had to crop file...see next post. Sorry for the poor resolution but, you get the idea.