1969 Evinrude 40hp Compression and Water Pump.

jimmbo

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Try a search for Foam Backer Rod - images

A Foam Pipe Cover(insulator) might also work as the gasket
 
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Chrisravosa36

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AHHH!! I see that would probably do the trick. Il get a few diff sizes and see which one fits the best. Also what where the other seals you where talking about? there where others that would be the cause of and exhaust leak? Il be gone on vaccation till monday, so Im not going to be able to work on it till them.
 

jimmbo

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You disconnected the shift linkage to tke the lower unit off. To disconnect the linkage you had to remove two access covers, One was on the cover, the second one was behind it on the exhaust housing. If the inner cover isn't sealed correctly, exhaust gases can get up inside the cowl if the seal you are trying to replace is damaged or missing.
 

Chrisravosa36

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You disconnected the shift linkage to tke the lower unit off. To disconnect the linkage you had to remove two access covers, One was on the cover, the second one was behind it on the exhaust housing. If the inner cover isn't sealed correctly, exhaust gases can get up inside the cowl if the seal you are trying to replace is damaged or missing.


Yup, ive got to order that gasket to.... Is there any other gaskets that are down there ive got to worry about, ive looked on the pars dia. and I saw nothing else but the base powerhead gasket.
 

Chrisravosa36

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A little update....


First off, I ordered a new head gasket, installed it and that helped the compression by about 25lbs (cold), before I got 75lbs cold, now I get 100lbs. I did that and a decarb. I got a new head water jacket gasket to. Also a new thermostat gasket and the lower unit grommets and shift link seals. Water pump is coming today.

- I noticed the spark plug holes were stripped, and the gauge was just grabbing onto the last few threads. So I went the the autozone and bought a spark plug repair kit, going to do that today.

- Shift link was stripped to, so going to strip it out and create some new threads for it.

Any tricks of tips when im putting the l.u back on? ive done it on the new motors (80's) but these have more tubes.
 

lindy46

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Two people makes the job easier. Make sure the water tubes are mounted in the upper grommets first. Try to position them so they will slide into the lower grommets on the water pump housing without having to reposition them too much. Then it's a matter of lining up the driveshaft splines with the crank, getting the water tubes in place, and getting the lower shift rod into the coupler. That's why two people make the job easier. You may have to turn the driveshaft a little to get the splines to align with the crank. Place the shift lever in forward and the lower shift rod down (in reverse) to start. Then once you get the driveshaft and water tubes in place and the lower unit bolted in place, you can work on reconnecting the shift rod by moving the shift lever to reverse while guiding the lower shift rod into the coupler. Make sure to get the recess in the top of the shift rod lined up with the coupler bolt hole before re-installing the bolt.
 

AlTn

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in order to facilitate the mating of the copper tubes and grommets I smear a small amount of grease around the o.d. of the tube(s) and the i.d. of the grommets...seems to help
 

jimmbo

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Grease being a petroleum product is not a good choice as it will rot the neoprene. Dish soap used to be recommended
 

Chrisravosa36

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Happy Mothers day! I looked at the spark plug kit on friday, and I got a 3/8 kit. I belive the holes for the plugs are 14mm, right? I need to order a new kit, so correct me if Im wroung! I belive the proper plugs are jc4's
 

F_R

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14mm x 3/8" long.
Back to the smoke, if the seal is missing off the top of the water pump cover, it will fill the cowl with exhaust smoke big time.
 

Chrisravosa36

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14mm x 3/8" long.
Back to the smoke, if the seal is missing off the top of the water pump cover, it will fill the cowl with exhaust smoke big time.


Are you talking about the shift linkage seal? im sorrta confused
 

Chrisravosa36

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14mm x 3/8" long.
Back to the smoke, if the seal is missing off the top of the water pump cover, it will fill the cowl with exhaust smoke big time.



Im sorrta confused... The water pump cover as in the pump housing? The shift link seaL (I got a new one)? * posted this twice the first post didnt load so I posted again
 

F_R

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Sorry, I got my brain mixed up with the V-4 models. No "cover" on your 40, but it does have the seal I'm talking about. #7, part number 202591 o-ring. There are two more on the #72 extension tube if you have a long shaft model. AND the extension tube needs to be in there also, if it is long shaft. Any of these items will fill the hood with smoke.
 

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Chrisravosa36

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Sorry, I got my brain mixed up with the V-4 models. No "cover" on your 40, but it does have the seal I'm talking about. #7, part number 202591 o-ring. There are two more on the #72 extension tube if you have a long shaft model. AND the extension tube needs to be in there also, if it is long shaft. Any of these items will fill the hood with smoke.


Not home atm, but I am probally going to take a ride down the the hardware store with the old one and pick up a simular one. And also my motor is not a long shaft, its short (18in) Thanks for the help! I think with the spark plug holes I mixed up the 3/8 long with the diameter of the plug.
 
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