1970 gulfstream makeover... Somewhat

[kinaiahi61]

I acquired this boat about a year ago after fixing my 14' Livingston and realizing I was crazy to be fishing that thing the way I was. It is a 1970 gulfstream hull (supposedly 19', but all literature I found said they made a 18'????) with a two foot extension. It was the only boat that fit the bill at the time with most of what I wanted. Did some work over the past year and was fishing it often until I found some cracks in the bottom of the hull. The previous to me modifications probably contributed to it, plus going out on rough days. So out came the saws and tools to start ripping out the perfectly good deck. Found water and some rot but not too bad considering that the stringers were only sporadically tabbed in. Inspected the transom, and it was soaked. So I started ripping into that. At this point most of the transom skin is gone and only the back of the extension ply is left. Planning on laying some mat and knytex over the ply to build a skin and tab the extension to the hull on the inside. Then putting 2-3/4" marine ply sheets back and glassing all in. I'll post pics tomorrow from the computer, too hard to try and resize everything on the phone, I probably just don't have the app.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Planning on using VE resin, any advice as I've only used marine laminating resin prior to this. Also any advice on using pourable foam yet still having limber holes and drains for water to get out? I've read balloons, fiber tubes, etc. Still not sure on how I would have it drain properly.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Just went to order the supplies and the supplier said that the VE will only last 45 days. Is this accurate? I would be better off using Iso resin, as it has a shelf life of 6 months according to the supplier. What happens to the VE after 45 days?

 

[Woodonglass]

Hmmm, VE typically has a shorter Shelf Life than Poly but not THAT much shorter. I'd say you should expect it to last 3 months for sure. Especially if you keep it in a Cool Dry place out of direct sunlight. After that It might start to "Gel" a bit but even then it still may work ok, it's just harder to wet out when it gels.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Hmmm, VE typically has a shorter Shelf Life than Poly but not THAT much shorter. I'd say you should expect it to last 3 months for sure. Especially if you keep it in a Cool Dry place out of direct sunlight. After that It might start to "Gel" a bit but even then it still may work ok, it's just harder to wet out when it gels.

Yah I thought that it was weird that he would be trying to sell me the cheaper poly and iso resins. He was pushing the 3m RFP foam too for the transom. I was set on marine ply because its available on my island of Kauai, would add weight for rough water and wouldn't need to ship more stuff in and pay the exorbitant fees. Oh yah, and it cost less than half of the foam, and the extension and sole are gonna be ply anyway. I thought that he was off on the shelf life time. Maybe thats just what they have to say to avoid problems. Never used it but look forward to it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Since you can buy your materials locally, I'd get all the demo work done and get all the fabrication work done and have everything ready to go before I bought my resin. That way they would have to stand behind their "Shelf Life" warranty. Remember, It may have been on their Shelf for a while before it goes on your shelf. Once you get it, Keep it Cool,Dry and tightly sealed as best you can. It will last a Lot longer that way.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Since you can buy your materials locally, I'd get all the demo work done and get all the fabrication work done and have everything ready to go before I bought my resin. That way they would have to stand behind their "Shelf Life" warranty. Remember, It may have been on their Shelf for a while before it goes on your shelf. Once you get it, Keep it Cool,Dry and tightly sealed as best you can. It will last a Lot longer that way.

Thats exactly what I was thinking. Got the rest of the transom out today and ground down most of the fiberglass. What do you think the layup should be to put the "outside" transom skin back? I was thinking of tabbing the extension ply in with 6" and 12" 1708 tape. Followed by two 1.5 oz mat layers with 2 layers of 1708. Is this necessary or should I just tab the extension ply in, put some PB, join the 2- 3/4" marine ply pieces then tab them and go with a good layup on the inside skin. As it is now, there is no transom skin between extension and boat (I pulled everything out). The red arrow is the ply of the extension. The rest has been removed up until that piece.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd just tab it , PB it and do a good lay up on the inner skin. I think you'll be fine.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Thanks WOG and others. I think the tabbing would be the way to go. 6", 12" and maybe another over that. Should I PB the two 3/4" wood together. I read other places on here that they use type II glue. Gluing would probably be a lot easier and cleaner.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Tightbond III is perfect for that.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup TiteBond III is waterproof once cured and makes things a LOT simpler and easier. Use deck screws to screw/clamp it together. Remove em the next day and fill the holes with PB. Check out this link...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[kinaiahi61]

Yup TiteBond III is waterproof once cured and makes things a LOT simpler and easier. Use deck screws to screw/clamp it together. Remove em the next day and fill the holes with PB. Check out this link...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

Mahalo, went to the Home Depot and got some titebond III. Also got some pics of the boat tarped, the tent, and the dusty transom.

 

[Woodonglass]

PLEASE tell me you're wearing all the appropriate PPE!!!!

 

[kinaiahi61]

PLEASE tell me you're wearing all the appropriate PPE!!!!

Roger that. Those are two tyvek suits hanging on the boat. Plus got a full 3m face mask for this one. With the last one (14' Livingston that you also helped me on, thank you very much!!!) I didn't have the full face mask and constantly got dust in my eyes. Suits are hooded with booties, and I wear Thickster gloves with working gloves over them.

 

[Woodonglass]

Alrighty Then!!!! I SEE I need to pay closer attention!!!! It's kinda hard to see in the pics. It looks like the bunks run full length of the hull and if they do then you're prolly ok. Since the cap is on her she's prolly not gunna flex to much. How thick would you guess-ti-mate the hull glass to be??

 

[kinaiahi61]

Alrighty Then!!!! I SEE I need to pay closer attention!!!!

Thanks for looking out for me!!! That would definitely shorten my life grinding in there without the proper ppe. As it is I can't last all day due to the suit and tarped off boat. Water just pours out of the suit.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah I bet, Instant Sauna Bath for sure!!! But better that than NO LUNGS!!!! Shop vac and might help!

 

[kinaiahi61]

Got a couple of hours in yesterday and was able to remove more of the old floor, and the starboard stringer. It was bedded in a lot of resin. I broke some off with a hammer and flat bar, but it broke right to the glass on some. Looked like woven roving just exposed, so I figured it would be better if I cut and grind. The gas tank that I have is plastic and about 20 years old. Should it be replaced. There isn't anything thats wrong with it, but wouldn't want something to go wrong and have to cut the deck. Anyone know how long the plastic tanks lasts? Its a Tempo 36 gallon I believe. I also have a stainless tank that my uncle gave me that I could use. I definitely would need to clean the inside somehow, as its been sitting outside and has some water in it. If I do use the stainless I would build a tank coffin that would be accessible (i.e. seats above, tank below in coffin). I have read that the stainless tanks condensate more and collect water, also they are more prone to cracking at the weld seams. Any input on this is greatly appreciated. I also found a 50 gallon Moeller tank on Amazon that would work. Are these any good? The other thing I need to think about is weight, but it would be close to the old tank location. However it would now run from port to starboard, as opposed to bow to stern on the old tank. The stainless looks like there are baffles welded in also. Just worried about doing all this work to have to tear it apart.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Can I cut a stringer if I add a bulk head? I don't want to run the center stringer all the way down the middle because I'm putting in a 6' fish box, and a live well. I've seen the center stringer or keel, use a pvc and layers of glass over it. This would keep the height low. Is this the acceptable way to do it. As the boat was, there were 3 stringers, and no bulk heads. I'm planning on putting in at least four bulkheads. Also, should I raise the stringer height towards the back since I plan on putting back in a flush deck? I need the floor height low in the cab area as I would continuously bang my head if not. So the front of the fish box to the bow would have a dropped down floor. I was planning on using the bulkheads as the floor support with a ledger around the edge. The whole center would be pretty much fish box and live well from the transom to about 8.5 feet (then the dropped floor inside of the cab). From what I've read, stringers "should" be continuous through out the run. I do have a background in construction/carpentry and have built my own house, as well as other houses and believe that a well tied in center stringer to a bulkhead would spread the load, but not sure in a boat. I would still run the two outer stringers continuously to the transom. The two outer stringers are 30"s apart. The boat is about 6' wide in the rear. The yellow is the old floor height, green is the new floor height so I don't keep hitting my head. Blue is the outside stringer location, red is the center stringer.


Blue is the outside stringers, red the middle, green is the flush deck height. Sorry using pic monkey and I'm not very good at it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Adding Bulkheads in to your stringer system is perfectly acceptable. Lowering the height of the stringers might be problematic. This can weaken them and their ability to keep the hull from flexing longitudinally. I'm no Marine Engineer but just stating my opinion. It's your boat and you CAN do as you see fit.