1972 Sea Ray

[Nivekt]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Ive only been in this state a couple years and never heard of them.

Ya know, going back to the through hull isnt a bad idea if you dont think you would mind the noise. Now, since you have manifolds and risers different from the originals, it would, yet again, be another totally custom deal but would probably be cheaper and easier than buying a replacement/newer adapter housing and intermediate. Here is an exploded diagram of the original external exhaust setup:

By the way, I get all these diagrams from shop.evinrude.com Load that page up. Click on parts. Then select "stern drive" from the drop down menu. Then select year, etc.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

thru-hull will be VERY loud unless you get a couple of water lift mufflers which will be quite pricey

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

All good ideas, so where can I go to find some inline shutters/flappers to install as a custom job?

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Anyone?

 

[Nivekt]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Did some google searching. This was the only thing I found even remotely close: Bellow Exhaust with Internal Flapper Volvo AQ Series Drives 876633 9 | eBay

Not sure of the dimensions though.

*Edit* Better price: http://www.ebasicpower.com/pc/BPI89010/VOL8D

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Did some google searching. This was the only thing I found even remotely close: Bellow Exhaust with Internal Flapper Volvo AQ Series Drives 876633 9 | eBay

Not sure of the dimensions though.

*Edit* Better price: Bellow | Exhaust | Volvo V8 | Flapper

Wish I could use this but OMC don't use bellows. (((

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Here is my million dollar question, if OMC designed my year model exhaust housing to not have shutters/flappers but would rather cap them and run through transom then why would they have built the housing to support that style where it runs out stern drive and no flappers/shutters. I'm going to guess we are missing something here either I don't need them which original owner told me yesterday he never had issues like that of a backwash unless he is lying or OMC really never required them at that year.

 

[Nivekt]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Thats the question I posed yesterday. I was hoping Boomyal would chime in with his setup details. The bellows could be used in line with your existing exhaust design in the vertical part, assuming they were of the correct diameter and could be tied in somehow.

 

[Boomyal]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

I haven't digested this whole post. Suffice it to say that as far as I know, the electric shift intermediate housing did not have any exhuast flappers. At least my '75 does not have them and I have never had any issues of any kind of reversion even with my later 5.0 roller cam motor, using a '69 351w automotive grind for the camshaft.

I am still using the original log style exhaust manifolds, as well. I do not have any experience or input on thru the hull type exhaust.

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Boomyal,

Thanks for this information and I just might give it a go and see how things work! Hoping for no catastrophic event lol. Again, original owner stated he never had this kind of issue, the motor overheated due to a bad impeller so they rebuilt motor. As for anything beyond that he claims no issues whatsoever and it was a great running motor.

Time will sure tell. I got the boat for practically nothing but with my mechanical expertise to help fix some other things of his. Two hands better than one, so that is why I ended up with the boat rather then cash for my service. Case of beer would have been nice

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

At this point either I use the bellows exhaust flapper setup in my inline or just go without and take my chances ))))?????

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

I went over and pulled off the stern drive numbers. Model no: 981231 and Ser No: 12AP......any idea what year this stern drive is and size then?

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Okay so I charged battery again took it over to boat and tried to start it. Same thing slow crank, and it seemed sometimes to be a slight dead spot but then it would continue to try to crank but way too slow.

I pulled starter as previously said it could be that. Will auto parts store be able to test it for me without it on boat? Also, I looked up the number on it, appears to be Delco Remy 1107704 which according to Delco website it is obsolete. Anything they cross referenced to is obsolete as well, wtf? It is a GM350 so can I just go to a parts store and match one or does it have to be marine grade? Here are couple photos and it looks like it had been cracked open at one point and put back together also using silicone sealant to close cracks.

Think it is time for a new one? Oh and it is a 9 tooth so again does it have to be 9 teeth or can I get one with more?

 

[Boomyal]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Maybe you have a local rebuilder. We have one here in Vancouver WA. Much cheaper than new and much better quality rebuild and components than you would get from an AutoParts store. And yes, it should be marine grade. I'm not sure what is available for GM motors but I got a Hi Torque, Hi speed, gear reduction mini starter from DB Electrical on ebay. It was for my SBF boat motor. It was much smaller and lighter weight than the original starter and it turns over like greased lightning. Also being smaller, it was easier to install and did not rest on the stringer where any water going over into the bilge, got the starter wet.

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Ah yea mine is about 15 pounds doesn't rest on stringer but it is heavy. I would prefer to just buy a new one just wondering what I could use for my GM350. Plus I'm sure mounting holes will need to match in order to hook it back to motor. After several cranks of motor I will say the main part of my starter was hot to touch is that sign its bad or something resisting against it?

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Also what size cranking amp battery should I have for a GM350?

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

There are two models... early and late .... bolt holes will either be parallel or staggered with one further forward
You will likely need the early model...

 

[Boomyal]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

......After several cranks of motor I will say the main part of my starter was hot to touch is that sign its bad or something resisting against it?

...I would say that is a good sign of internal resistance in the starter. Plus the fact that someone has messed with it is a pretty good indication it is fubar'd.

You will pay a hefty premium for a new standard marine starter. That is why I recommended finding a local rebuilder. It wouldn't cost any more to rebuild a marine starter than an automotive one and it will be as good as new.(unlike cheapy autoparts store remans. It is also likely that you would not find marine rebuilds) Marine starters just have some kind of shielding in them that will isolate any sparks. Otherwise they are no different than their automotive counterparts. Plus rebuilding will insure you will have something that will fit. No guesswork.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Show me a pic of your old starter looking down on the top of it as it would be mounted to the engine
Won't be any guesswork

The only issue I see with rebuilding is that it MAY not be a marine starter now

 

[Celtichawk]

Re: 1972 Sea Ray

Agreed I will look into rebuilding it and hope it can be done. Not finding the starter any place online so it's going to be tough to source part. I found one place that wanted $157 plus $18 for core but it was made by Wilson. Heard of that?

Any other sites you guys might know of?