Woodonglass
Supreme Mariner
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2009
- Messages
- 25,929
Great to hear it's all Glass. I'd for sure recommend using Poly. That's what your boat is made out of.
Woodonglass, i was planing on getting the Resin from Overtons , I spoke with them this morning at the Raleigh, NC store and informed me that the resin is drop shipped directly from the manufacture in Ohio with the hardener included and it's, no-wax. I have plenty of 6 mil clear plastic here but I was thinking of going the PVA route when it come time to hardening off the resin. If you have a particular supplier please let me know, I want the best product I can afford.THS, There are only about 5 major Resin MFG's in the U.S. Everyone buys from them and then re-packages and re-Brands the resin. Boatyard Resin is one of the Re-Packagers. As long as it hasn't been "On the Shelf" for more than 30- 45 days and the MEKP is fresh then you'll be fine in using it. As Friderday (Lisa) states make sure it is Laminating resin with NO WAX. This allows you to apply multiple layers without sanding in between application. You don't have to add wax to the last layer. The resin will eventually cure without it. It DOES help give it a bit more waterproofing but I will tell you the MFG didn't use it when the originally built your boat. You can actually lay plastic over the top of it to make it cure to a hard sandable finish too. You can also spray it with PVA (PolyVinylAlcohol) Same goes for Gelcoat. If you don't do something, it will remain tacky for quite awhile but as I said it will eventually fully cure and become non tacky. I WOULD advise you to do something just wanted your to be aware of the options.
Where do you plan on getting your supplies?
Got the boat under my shed in the back yard cradled on wood blocks and cap back on , will be updating on the braces later today.
I guess I can post now .. :lol:
Woodonglass, I'm located in Henderson, NC just north of Raleigh-Durham near the Virgina state line. The price on the one gallon resin is 39.99 which includes shipping from the manufacture, I'm figuring 4 gallons for the transom so 160.00 dollars
This was my main piece of decking going in. Toward the transom, it hovered just above the hull.friderday i'm planing on a keel stringer and foam spacers around the edge to tighten it up .. Thing's are fixing to slow up a little on this restore. I just purchased a used 20 hp Merc and a older Motor Guide bow mount trolling motor this morning .lol...nice one Sam!!! Braces look good..I know it'll be a pain to work around them, but at least you know hull will stay put.& you can put the cap back on as soon as transom done. Sam brings up a good point...I think the reason I am so drawn to this boat is that it reminds me of mine. Looking at your partial deck removal only confirms similarities to mine. Albeit, mine had stringers, but besides the center one, the other 2 were no more than a 1" x 3" on its flat side. The "deck" didn't even go all the way over to the gunwhales (sides) of the boat. I made stringers just high enough to raise my deck so it would just about almost rest on the hull out at the edges, just so I had a full side to side deck & not just one 18" off center. By the looks of it, without stringers, yours seems to rest just about in the same spot mine does now. You could either put some foam spacers around the edge to steady it where you want it, then tab it in with a couple layers of 1708. Although I would have to agree with jig, in that at the least I would put a keel stringer of some sort...it won't be very tall based on your current deck height, then add the tabbing. That along with some pourable foam, again won't need much, & I think your new deck will be well supported. Maybe do an xtra layer of glass on the under side too.This was my main piece of decking going in. Toward the transom, it hovered just above the hull.
Woodononglass, thanks for info before i made a mistake. As for specs I'm wondering if I can make some topside changes to the seating. The original seats and pedestals were glassed into the deck( I'll post a pic) . I was thinking about going back with a bench on the stern side and a single seat on the front .THS your low deck hull was specifically designed and engineered to be a '"No Stringer" foam filled and supported Hull. You can add a keel if you want but IMHO and the opinions of the original designers it's not needed. Once you replace the deck and tab it securely to the sides of the hull and then pour in the foam so it can fill the cavity below your hull will be more than capable of handling the loads it was intended and designed for. Them naval engineers and designers are right smart fellers and they don't like getting their pants sued off when things fail. That boat lasted a lot of years with it's original design and will last a lot more if you put her back exactly the way she was. But, like I always say, It's your boat and you're free to with it as you see fit. Just stating what my experience and research has taught me. Everyone else's opinions and methods all have merit as well.
