1975 Evinrude 2hp - Hasn't been run in 10 years - Model 2502D

[JohnnyGuy]

Hi All,

My brother-in-law and I co-own a 12' tinner with a '76 15hp Johnson as our main source of power.
My brother-in-law was recently given his grandfather's '75 2hp Evinrude. We plan to use this on the boat as a kicker for when we're trolling.

The motor hasn't been run in over 10 years. Cosmetically it is in fantastic shape for it's age. The pull start does engage and you can turn it over (gently checked it once, just to ensure it wasn't seized).
The throttle seems to be really stiff?
The gas tank is a little loose (looks like it's missing the fuel tank retainer springs (P/N 330808?) on the underside of the tank?).
The handle broke years ago and the current handle is HALF of a bow saw (funny by it works).

Our plan was to:
1) Pull the spark plug and check the plug for any internal corrosion, at the same time check through the plug hole for the same on the cylinder/cylinder walls.
2) Assuming no corrosion squirt some 2-stroke oil into the cylinder from the plug hole and put the plug back in.
3) Disconnect/drain the fuel lines and carb (tank is empty, not sure if anything in the line/carb).
4) Pull the engine over with the spark plug in but disconnected to lube up the cylinder/cylinder walls with the oil from step 2 above.
5) Check spark with gap tester.

This is where I am wondering what to do next. We plan on doing the water pump kit and carb clean (kit), but would like to check compression first to ensure we're not spending money on the kits for nothing...
After step 5 above, will it be OK to hookup the compression tester and check compression at this point in time or should I be running the powerhead to burn off that oil before checking compression?

The next steps would be (assuming compression is good):
6) Drain and replace LU oil
7) New waterpump Kit
8) Carb clean and new kit.
9) New spark plug
10) Give 'er a test start (run a higher oil ratio fuel mix (25:1) for the first little bit of running the motor?).

We've already purchased a factory service manual and are anxiously awaiting it's arrival.

Are there any other recommendations on starting up an old motor?
I had read a few articles about spraying fogging oil into the cylinders instead of oil?
Clean out the fuel tank with seafoam or something?
Should I be changing the fuel lines at this time to? If so, does anyone know the line size off hand? I was thinking a clear line from the tank to the carb would be handy to have.

Also, if anyone had a handle they'd be able to give me the measurements on from one of these old 2hp, I'd really appreciate that, as they're obsolete and I have the means to be able to have a replacement made.

The fuel tank retainer springs that are mentioned above (#330808) are obsolete, I have found two used ones at $20/pc, but If anyone here has a solution to keep the tank from rattling around on the cheap, I would be happy to hear!

With regards to the throttle being stiff, I'm hoping that there's a screw somewhere to adjust tension on the armature plate or something? I had read another post about the throttle being too loose and coming out of position when running due to vibration. Hopefully my problem can be solved by doing the opposite? If anyone has any comments on this, it would also be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any comments and recommendations.

Cheers,
JG

 

[F_R]

Whew. Long list. I'll take the last one first. Look under the armature plate and you will see a horizontal screw where it swivels on the motor. That is the throttle friction screw. Adjust as desired. However, it probably is all gummed up from old dried out grease and needs to be disassembled and cleaned & re-lubricated first.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Whew. Long list. I'll take the last one first. Look under the armature plate and you will see a horizontal screw where it swivels on the motor. That is the throttle friction screw. Adjust as desired. However, it probably is all gummed up from old dried out grease and needs to be disassembled and cleaned & re-lubricated first.

Ya, sorry about the long list.

With regards to the throttle comment, that's what I was assuming as well (gummed up to some degree).
I couldn't see anyone wanting to have the throttle that tight.
Thanks for the input F_R!

 

[JohnnyGuy]

I've done some additional research, fuel line from tank to carb is 1/4".
The fuel line has gone through quite a few replacement part numbers 319718 replaced by: 322748 replaced by: 333485 replaced by: 772572.

 

[interalian]

Just use bulk fuel line from an auto parts store. Get ethanol compatible line.

 

[F_R]

I've done some additional research, fuel line from tank to carb is 1/4".
The fuel line has gone through quite a few replacement part numbers 319718 replaced by: 322748 replaced by: 333485 replaced by: 772572.

Agreed. With a minor suggestion--they probably will give you a choice of regular fuel line, or high pressure fuel injection hose. no need for F/I stuff.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Agreed. With a minor suggestion--they probably will give you a choice of regular fuel line, or high pressure fuel injection hose. no need for F/I stuff.

My autoparts guy has some 1/4 translucent (slight blue colour) fuel line sold by the foot. Lots of guys use it for snowmobiles he said. I'm sure it'll do the part.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Update:
I pulled the plug the other night and it is still coated in oil... I also looked inside couldn't see any corrosion, just some carbon build up.

I've squirted some XD50 in there and am letting it soak.

I'll do a compression test this weekend.
I've read I should be looking for no less than 85psi?

 

[Bonaventure]

See if you can get the motor running after you do the waterpump. If it runs and doesn't sputter, I would leave the Carburator alone. A lot of people run them dry after each use, I do it myself, and this often keeps things nice and clean.

Also, get clean High Test gasoline, some brands do not have ETHANOL in High Test. I use Shell in my '78 2 HP.

Another thing you can do is put grease in the lower unit instead of oil. It is more forgiving with water egress and does as good a job of lubrication. I pull the 2 bolts holding the Propeller shaft bearing on and apply it there. if you live in a cold climate, it is a good idea to remove this again in the fall. if there is any water in the lower unit, it will probably crack the housing when it freezes and expands. There are several posts on this forum about using LUBRIPLATE 105 Engine Assembly Grease for this purpose.

Good luck with the motor, these are tough little engines.

 

[interalian]

Update:
I pulled the plug the other night and it is still coated in oil... I also looked inside couldn't see any corrosion, just some carbon build up.

I've squirted some XD50 in there and am letting it soak.

I'll do a compression test this weekend.
I've read I should be looking for no less than 85psi?

I got a tad over 90 on mine. We call it 'little putt putt'.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

She came out a tad above 120psi.
We will be moving on to replacing fuel lines cleaning fuel tank and carb and doing the water pump.

 

[clemsonfor]

See if you can get the motor running after you do the waterpump. If it runs and doesn't sputter, I would leave the Carburator alone. A lot of people run them dry after each use, I do it myself, and this often keeps things nice and clean.

Also, get clean High Test gasoline, some brands do not have ETHANOL in High Test. I use Shell in my '78 2 HP.

Another thing you can do is put grease in the lower unit instead of oil. It is more forgiving with water egress and does as good a job of lubrication. I pull the 2 bolts holding the Propeller shaft bearing on and apply it there. if you live in a cold climate, it is a good idea to remove this again in the fall. if there is any water in the lower unit, it will probably crack the housing when it freezes and expands. There are several posts on this forum about using LUBRIPLATE 105 Engine Assembly Grease for this purpose.

Good luck with the motor, these are tough little engines.

if you were doing this us farmer and tractor guys do this trick with "john deere corn head grease" its a flowable grease I think used in JD corn pickers or something? I don't know its green comes in tubes for your gun and is like $6 tube I think. Lots of people put it in their bush hog gear boxes when the seals go out because it doesn't leak out like 90wt oil.

 

[Bonaventure]

That compression test is really good, it may be influenced by having oil around the rings. You should also have the throttle advanced most of the way so the throttle plate will be open and get lots of air. The reading that you have probably had sufficient air.

If you decide to go the grease in the lower unit route, you need to not put too much in as it can cause a hydraulic effect that will prevent your being able to re-install the propeller shaft bearing/support assy. Put the grease behind the gear, then install the prop shaft gear and apply the grease
until it is about even with the top of the gear or a slight bit higher. There isn't much room there. Once the unit is bolted together, a bit more can be put through the filler hole.

If the steel prop shaft is pitted, it will be hard to make a seal that will be watertight and chances are oil will not serve when it becomes mixed. Salt water use especially can cause this. Replacement shafts are not easy to find.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

if you were doing this us farmer and tractor guys do this trick with "john deere corn head grease" its a flowable grease I think used in JD corn pickers or something? I don't know its green comes in tubes for your gun and is like $6 tube I think. Lots of people put it in their bush hog gear boxes when the seals go out because it doesn't leak out like 90wt oil.

I'll be sticking with the HPF Pro gearcase lube I currently have for my '76 15hp.
Thanks anyway for the input though!

 

[JohnnyGuy]

That compression test is really good, it may be influenced by having oil around the rings. You should also have the throttle advanced most of the way so the throttle plate will be open and get lots of air. The reading that you have probably had sufficient air.

Throttle was advanced as mentioned (on the start position).
Thanks for the tip for future reference though!
Cheers!

 

[Bonaventure]

If you have spark it may go just like it is.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

Well, a little update.

Got a chance to install new water pump and cleaned the carb in my new ultrasonic cleaner and did a new carb kit on it.
Used ZEP HD Citrus degreaser diluted 50/50 with water and I think I left it in a little long. The carb came out nice and CLEAN but the carb body darkened. I did a carb from a 9.9 I picked up after and used distilled water and dawn dish soap and it came out perfect, nice and clean and the body stayed the same colour.

Anyways, cleaned out the fuel tank and the pickup screen, it was quite grungy in that thing, replaced the fuel line from the tank to the carb, went to put in a new spark plug and I stripped the head...

I was able to find a replacement head and got myself a headgasket; haven't yet tackled it yet though.

While I was waiting for the head to be shipped I was able to find myself two more 2hp's which I picked up for $75 (1982) and $100 (1978). The 82 came with a spare prop and has a poor repaint job done on it from the previous owner and the 78 came with a spare LU including a prop, from an early model 2hp (DARK blue). They both have a nice blue spark that jumped 10mm (3/8 +/-) gap. The 82 checks out to ~72-75psi and the 78 checked out to ~105psi.

So after I'm done with the original motor, I think I'll try getting those two back up and running.

I got myself a service manual for the '75. I noticed that the 78 and 82 have a slightly different cam follower with an adjustment screw on it, since my manual is for the 75 it doesn't include any information on that cam follower. For future reference is there a different procedure for adjusting the new type cam follower?

I'll post some pics and video once I get them all up and running.

 

[Bonaventure]

I would do the one with the higher compression first. The '82 will need a set of rings and that is quite a bit more work and expense. It would do to have that one as a parts engine. If you can get it running you can still use it, but it will not have the power or fuel economy unless you do the rings.

I wish I could find bargains like those you have found.

 

[JohnnyGuy]

I would do the one with the higher compression first. The '82 will need a set of rings and that is quite a bit more work and expense. It would do to have that one as a parts engine. If you can get it running you can still use it, but it will not have the power or fuel economy unless you do the rings.

I wish I could find bargains like those you have found.

Thanks Bonaventure.

I did some work on them this weekend and it turns out that the '82 had a broken slow speed needle valve.
The tip was completely broken off the needle and lodged in the carb. I popped the welch plug and it looks like the Previous Owner had attempted to get it out. I also made a couple attempts but it appears to be lodged in there pretty good. I suppose I will just keep this motor for parts based on your comments above.

With the '78 I put it's carb through the ultrasonic cleaner and put a new carb kit into it.
She started right up on the 3rd pull and seems to be pumping water (hard to tell on these 2hp's?)...

I still haven't gotten the original 2hp I posted this thread about running as of yet, I still have to pull the head and replace the headgasket lol.

 

[racerone]

I drill a hole in the carburetor so that the broken tip of the needle can be pushed out with a wee pin.-----Then plug the drilled hole with a screw or JB weld.