1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

[Jayb123]

Hi all...

I figured since I have been working on the boat past few days I might as well start an "official" resto thread. I have a few pics to post when I came home the other day. However, my camera bit the dust. Lets just say (driveway+1 and camera-0). I plan on getting a new camera in the next day or 2. If resto turns out 1/2 as good as the others I will be very happy. I have made a list of things I dont want to forget and things I want to add while while doing the restoration. I want to apologize in advance for all of my questions that I will have ... cause for now Im full of questions and have few answers. Anyway, Im looking forward to the project... and the day I can take the boys out fishing and tubing. I paid $250 for the boat (no trailer, no motor). I think I did OK. I will be on the prowl for a 70-85hp motor while doin the resto. I am sooooo good at putting the horse in front of the cart... Im already wracking my brain thinking about paint colors... LOL. So.... heres a few pics of the day the SS came home. Yes.... I do already have a few questions:

1. I was reading about rivets and drilling them out... I cant find the thread anywhere does anyone know where I can read about how to drill them out and get the holes ready for new *blind rivets* is what they are called?.. I think it was 3/16 drillbit down the center?

2. How do you guys brighten up the aluminum... I think while reading Veil's Resto thread he used steel wool and comet or a non-abrasive cleanser.

Now for the hardest part.... decisions... hmmmm..........
- Do I go totally original with lounge seats? .. Or go with pedestal seats? I kinda like the pedestal however If I do that... what ideas do you do for rear seating?

- While rebuilding .. I like EZ's bow hatch access. I might go that route also at least in the very front or the 2 sides.

OK so heres the before pics (I think they are supposed to 640x480...right?)

(I swear its going to take longer to fig. out photobucket than restore the boat )

 

[Huron Angler]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

You have done very well for $250...that looks to be pretty complete as far as hardware and the hull itself is in good shape too.

Congratulations, looking forward to seeing what you've got planned.

Start with a small bit and drill out the center of the rivet head. It helps to use an awl to punch an indentation so the drill doesn't walk all around and make a mess of things.

I screwed the pooch on a thru-hull rivet and drilled where I did not want to drill once and this helps avoid mistakes

I think the lounge seats take up way too much deck space, I like having pedestals. I'm going to add one more pedestal to the stern, maybe like ezmobee did on his SS.

 

[boatnut74]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Welcome to the dry dock! Looks like you have yourself a solid boat to start with. To drill ut the rivets you only have to drill down a little bit then the head will pop right off. I think I used a couple sizes smaller than 3/16 when I did mine. Good luck and smart move adding pictures.

 

[KellyC]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Well I am still waiting for my rivets to show up. But I did drill some out of the bottom of my Islander to get ready to replace, I used a 3/16 drill bit and that is the same size as the rivets. I did use a smaller bit on a couple to try to drill the heads off and they were just to small, had to use the 3/16 to remove the heads. I am going to reinstall solid rivets and will have to buck them as that is the only to install them. Yes this will be a new experience for me as well, but don't think it will be that hard. Just be sure to use a prick punch to indent the rivet so it is easier to drill out and stay centered with.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

You have yourself a great project there Jay, congrats on the super deal

 

[heyyou325]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Rivet question should be mostly answered, so I'll add to you decisions. Side head grinder, small one, inside hull, leave a thin amount of rivet, start paper thin and adjust from there. Punch them out. A little aluminum will break on the back of the rivet, you don't have to grind to the hull, or rib. You do have to go slow and be careful. This comes from a person who can't stay in the center of the rivet with a drill. A couple of people are using Stainless steel machine screws to replace the rivets, not sure how that works. They have to be sealed I think. I've always bought a couple cases of beer called a friend hauled out a couple hammers and got a hangover replacing rivets. It's not that hard, but you can't do it alone.
There's a good resto in progress from boatnut who is stripping his and going to polish, keep a watch there.http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=465642&page=4
You also have to keep the corosion off after you strip it.

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Nice looking SS you have there Jay, she will be a great boat for you.
Glen

 

[Pugetsound]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Is It still raining in Sagle Idaho How high do they say Pend Oreille lake might get this spring.

Rivet question should be mostly answered, so I'll add to you decisions. Side head grinder, small one, inside hull, leave a thin amount of rivet, start paper thin and adjust from there. Punch them out. A little aluminum will break on the back of the rivet, you don't have to grind to the hull, or rib. You do have to go slow and be careful. This comes from a person who can't stay in the center of the rivet with a drill. A couple of people are using Stainless steel machine screws to replace the rivets, not sure how that works. They have to be sealed I think. I've always bought a couple cases of beer called a friend hauled out a couple hammers and got a hangover replacing rivets. It's not that hard, but you can't do it alone.
There's a good resto in progress from boatnut who is stripping his and going to polish, keep a watch there.http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=465642&page=4
You also have to keep the corosion off after you strip it.

 

[Jayb123]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Thanks guys... I think I will try to slowly drill out a rivet or 2 as a test.... not on the hull to see how it goes. Maybe the spashwell which needs to come out anyway. I will start with a small bit and get a lil larger till the rivet pops off. I went out today and spent like $150 on tools and some supplies. Im eager to get started on the boat but... it supposed to rain for another month. At least we had 2 days of nice weather .

 

[heyyou325]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Had 3+ sunny days, 2 of them in 70's, yesterday 79 with 25 mph winds. Today Sunny one minute, rainy the next, predicted high 66 with thunderstorms. 60 to 70 % chance of rain thru wed. Tomorrow high of 46 with thunderstorms. Got called out yesterday for stream flooding and trees down. Gonna be an interesting week while I'm trying to paint, and supposed to be spraying weeds. Pend Oreille still hasn't started to rise, but the river below the dam has.

 

[boatguy94]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Nice looking boat there! And for $250 you pretty much stole it .

My boat is the same color, and some things look like they do on mine.

You'll have a pretty good template to go off because it looks like things are mostly origional on it, and that makes life so much easier!

Good luck on it, and looking forward to how things turn out!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

If you go with lounge seats you will not have room for additional stern seating. So your choices are lounge seats or pedestals and jumps. I'm a huge fan of the sweet pedestal seats I got.

 

[Jayb123]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Well yesterday I picked up some supplies.. and polyester resin. I hope it will work as good as epoxy resin at 1/2 the price? Im planning on getting out the console/dash area and bow seating area to prepare for floor removal. Only problem I see is the original floor is completely gone. One of the PO just layed down some ply over-top . I think I plan to take width measurements from starboard to port say every 3-6 inches and plot it on my new ply and connect the dots . After I take msmts. I will post them here in case anyone could use them .
ps. really need a camera

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

and polyester resin. I hope it will work as good as epoxy resin at 1/2 the price?

You'll need to be thinking fiberglass then too if you haven't picked some up already.

 

[Jayb123]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

What if i dont plan on using fiber... Is the poly a bad choice as a sealer jas?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

What if i dont plan on using fiber... Is the poly a bad choice as a sealer jas?

Yah, don't even think about it. It's very brittle compared to epoxy resin, poly needs the glass to hold it together. Sorry dude.

 

[fshngho]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Welcome Jay. My friend you have a lot of thinking to do. The actual work isn't that bad, it's the planning thats a pain. If you go with pedistals ( I would) you will need to reinforce the floor when you replace it. I used ss bolts when I replaced a couple rivets in the hull and Gluvit the heck out of them. I know its expensive, but you will find there are certain areas you just have to bite the bullet and do it right. You don't need to brighten the aluminum, just make sure it is clean. You will want to dust any bare aluminum with ZC and prime/paint/ cover. Remember Gluvit does not like UV so you have to cover it. Its your boat, do what you will and want. Build it to fit your needs. Oh, buy another camera, we do have an unruly but enthusiastic bunch here and you do not want a mob on your front porch.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Agree with Jason. Poly resin has absolutely no strength when used by itself without glass. It will crack and flake off in short order (seen it with my own eyes). Either add glass or return it and go with epoxy.

 

[Jayb123]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Agree with Jason.......... Either add glass or return it and go with epoxy.

Thx EZ and Jas:

Thats why Im asking you guys... I will return the poly and go with epoxy. I am starting to think about pedestal also FNG. I will most likely plan accordingly. I am just as the stage where im getting all my things in order. I have made a 3 page spreadsheet from the resto threads I have read .

I still havent even ripped the floor out yet...thats for today....
I bought Arauco which was recommended on the forums I understand Aracuo also drinks less resin... from experiences about how much epoxy resin might I need for the job? This way I can order it... what should the thickness be (its so hard to tell my floors are total mush) I want to go with the original floor thickness.... I may have made a mistake in buying 23/32 yes..not 3/4 they get you on a 32nd????
If so...is 3/4 ply needed or does it just add weight?

Thanks again guys....

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1976 Starcraft 16' SS (Restoration)

Good move Jay - US Composites and ClarkCraft are the favorites around here for Epoxy.

For your new deck...

3/4" is super solid, totally bomber, but heavy especially for a 16 footer. 1/2" is really light weight, which is great, but definitely needs some good structure underneath to support it. 5/8" is sort of a good compromise, but, Arauco doesn't come in 5/8". Not a biggie, exterior ply works just fine.

Once you rip that deck out, and buy a new camera, post up a photo of your stringers, you should have two under there. That will help your decision I think.

Cheers!