1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Updated
 

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burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Now I have a couple of questions: Does the fiberglass stingers look good enough just to re-enforce with more glass? I did check them out and they seem to be well in tact to the inside of the hull. There are two picks with holes in the stringers, one I made and one I discovered. You will also notice some Gel Coat left, is there and easier way to remove the Gel coat besides grinding?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Are the Stringers Hollow? Foam Filled? Wood? What's inside of em??
 

burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

I also made a screw-up, and you guys warned me about this, but I guess I was just moving along too quickly. Yes I cut a hole in the hull, but it seems to be very repairable.


boat pic 10.jpgboat pic 9.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Yup, that's typical and a very easy repair.
 

burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Now I have a couple of questions: Does the fiberglass stringers look good enough just to re-enforce with more glass? I did check them out and they seem to be well in tact to the inside of the hull. There are two picks with holes in the stringers, one I made and one I discovered. You will also notice some Gel Coat left, is there and easier way to remove the Gel coat besides grinding?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Ok, the foam inside of the stringers is saturated/waterlogged and needs to be removed and replaced. It will never dry out. Water weighs almost 8 1/2 lbs per gallon. If those stringers are holding 20 gallons of water then that's almost 200 additional lbs of weight. It has to come out. I'd recommend you use cut the top of the stringers off and remove the foam, pour in new foam, and then re-glass the top of the stringers.
 

burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

That’s exactly what I will do. Is there any recommendations on where to make the cut on top of the stringers, I mean should I stay more to the center just enough to get the foam out or just take the tops off?
 

burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

I finally got the outboard off using a 1 ton engine host rented from sunbelt rentals, it worked great. The wood in the transom is toast! Now I need to decide whether to remove the entire cap or just the end by the splashwell??? Here are some picks of the progress:
 

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burnrunner

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Re: 1977 15' Monark Fibeglass deck repair

Well folks I decided to take the entire cap off and glad I did, it makes things so much easier to get to. From the looks of it I had to replace the wood trim under the cap anyway. The transom has to be redone it was soaked and rotten. I will have about 4 folks over this weekend to help me with the process, mostly sanding. Here are some pics:

21.jpg17.jpg18.jpg19.jpg20.jpg
 

burnrunner

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Folks, sorry I have been gone for a month or two, but working my 9-5 has been very time consuming. Well I just got back to the boat and have some questions. As you can see in my latest pics, I have rebuilt the wood core for my transom. I used (3) 1/2" sections to put it together, glued toghether with PL. I know some folks said they wouldn't use PL gluse for this application, but by being on a budget I chose too, and I think it turned out nice.

Here are my questions: Should I use PB to patch the holes from the screw I used to keep the 1/2 layers together?
What type of fiberglass should I use to cover the wood core? I was thinking two layers of CSM?
Should I also use PB to attach the wood core to the inner transom?

Remember this is my first rebuild and I can use all the help i can get.

Thanks
 
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burnrunner

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No Title

Folks, sorry I have been gone for a month or two, but working my 9-5 has been very time consuming. Well I just got back to the boat and have some questions. As you can see in my latest pics, I have rebuilt the wood core for my transom. I used (3) 1/2" sections to put it together, glued toghether with PL. I know some folks said they wouldn't use PL gluse for this application, but by being on a budget I chose too, and I think it turned out nice.

Here are my questions: Should I use PB to patch the holes from the screw I used to keep the 1/2 layers together?
What type of fiberglass should I use to cover the wood core? I was thinking two layers of CSM?
Should I also use PB to attach the wood core to the inner transom?

Remember this is my first rebuild and I can use all the help i can get.

Thanks
 

Woodonglass

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The second link in my signature below should have some helpful info and drawings for you..;)
 

burnrunner

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Folks I have gotten back to the boat and have a few more questions. I have done my first fiberglass repair to the boat and need to know how I can tell if my repair is really solid. It solid to the touch and not sticky, it seem to cure in about 4-6 hours, is this good? I used three layers of 1.5 Oz Chop strand on both sides, which is what I had on hand.

The other question I have is how do you repair the holes in the fiberglass stringers when I'm not able to get a backing on it to support the fiberglass repair or will it be fine just to go over the top?

I have provided picks on both questions.

Thanks
 

burnrunner

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Greetings all,
I have not been on the forum in a while so I hope my post will still be good. I had a long lay off on the boat, but I'm back. Here are three pics of some of the work. I think I will have to cut the fiberglass stringer back some to do the tabbing. How much should I cut them back?
 

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