1977 Evinrude 140

[dazk14]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Edit: Posted after 2 previous posts, while watching the Red Sox choke...


What plugs are in it now? Sure, test the spark gap. Adding fogging oil to the cylinders helps as you intended, although is more challenging to ignite. You've got some lube in the cylinders, use the starter fluid and you'll likely have a quick answer.

I realize your gauge may be out to lunch. When you rotate the flywheel by hand, does it indicate 4 somewhat obvious compression strokes? It's best to add lubricant when the motor is fully tilted and the exhaust ports are closed, but that's probably another discussion.

Regardless, I'd suggest you simply make it easy to ignite, and from there it should be fairly straightforward.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

sorry to hear bout the sox.

there are NGKs in there right now. turning it by hand and by key with all plugs out and holding my finger over the plug holes there are obvious compression strokes felt. i will do as you you have suggested tomorrow using Champion plugs and starting fluid. that is on my chore list for tomorrows fun.......

thanks DAZ........

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

got another question. the current control box will not come apart to rebuild it. what other ones can i use with the current OB assuming that i can get the OB running.

the current one i guess is a power pilot and looks like this:


The one i want to try and use is one with built in tilt and trim like this:


if there is a better choice to use please let me know............

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

I believe as long as it has the red plug, the two units are compatible.

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Sorry for interrupting, but from time to time I browse through threads that have been going on for some time.
A couple of things in this thread.
Why are everyone pouring oil through the spark plug hole on a 2-stroke with horizontal cylinders?
All that happens is that it flows out the exhaust posrt.
Open the carbs at WOT, take a spray can with fogging oil and fill up with 'foam'. Crank!
The oil gets sucked in, seals off eventual dried out leaf plates, lubricate crankshaft with all needle bearings, pass through the intake ports and lubricate pistons and cylinders both above and below rings, and what might be left finally goes out the exhaust. However on its way it has really done a mission!
Is it a 75 mod or a 77? I believe the 140 came 77. If so the plugs ought to be Champion UL77V or QL16V. If using for extensive trolling, (Q)L77JC4 may be used.
Metal hose clamps is not suitable to use when the inner tube is plastic!! Invest in a proper tightening tool and use a good quality Tie Strap that give a much more even pressure.
Did I see 'starting fluid' in one of the latest posts? I do not believe you may get 2% oil-mix starting fluid!!!
Use 2-4% fuel mix in a spraying can and blow a 'mist' into the carbs.
Your old control may be using the old type Long Life cables, the one you want to use needs Snap-On cables that have a different cable end so be prepared for another investment.
Again sorry for interrupting.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

no interruption..... thanks for the info and input Haffman.

i did not think about the fogging oil doing much else other than to lubricate the pistons, while tilted up, just to make sure there was lubrication for the rings right off the bat before moving the pistons. i did let them sit for about 10 mins before i turned them. this might not of helped much but could not have hurt either could it? not sure on an OB myself as these are new to me.

it is a 77 and the plugs will be changed. no idea about using it for extensive trolling as i have not even got it running just yet, but in case that i do use for that i will get the L77JC4 instead and put those in today. I will also use the fogging oil through the carbs and hope that will help out as you suggested as well.

How does one get a spraying can of 2-4% fuel mix or is that one that i have to make up myself and if so where do you get a spray CAN to put it in to be able to mist it in the carbs?

the plug i have on the end is a red female plug that pushes onto the male on the OB. Not sure what the old long life cable type is but will google it.

i have metal clamps being used with a brass "T" now in place of the vacuum line plastic "T" that was there. Should i be using a ty-wrap instead of metal hose clamps? I have the gun for the ty-wraps but to me that is a safety concern.

Again, thanks for your input and all input from anyone is welcomed in trying to revive the young lady.........

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

no interruption..... thanks for the info and input Haffman.

it is a 77 and the plugs will be changed. no idea about using it for extensive trolling as i have not even got it running just yet, but in case that i do use for that i will get the L77JC4 instead and put those in today. I will also use the fogging oil through the carbs and hope that will help out as you suggested as well.

How does one get a spraying can of 2-4% fuel mix or is that one that i have to make up myself and if so where do you get a spray CAN to put it in to be able to mist it in the carbs?

the plug i have on the end is a red female plug that pushes onto the male on the OB. Not sure what the old long life cable type is but will google it.

i have metal clamps being used with a brass "T" now in place of the vacuum line plastic "T" that was there. Should i be using a ty-wrap instead of metal hose clamps? I have the gun for the ty-wraps but to me that is a safety concern.

Again, thanks for your input and all input from anyone is welcomed in trying to revive the young lady.........

Use the QL16V plugs that are slightly hotter but surface gapped as the UL pluggs.
As for spray bottle, we have the exotic one:

Or the more common one:

However if using the 'cheap' version throw it away after use as they may self ignite!
As for the cables I was referring to shift and throttle cables and not the electric one.
I have in my time seen more leakages from metal clamps than Tie Straps.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

LOL....... I love the exotic one........ My mom used to have those laying around and i could never get a straight answer to what is was. took me a long time to figure it out without her help.

Yeah i do not like the cheap versions as i have seen those melt away...... i will have to make do with the cheap version though as i will not be able to make it to my local asian market to pick up a cheap atomizer and not sure who else would carry them any more.

i have a local guy that can get me the shift and throttle cables for around 25.00 new he said so those will not be a problem, but only wanting to invest money in it if it is going to work and it the motor is worth it. if it is indeed a rare animal and has the power, then i will keep her and rebuild if necessary. Although there is another donor boat around me for a very good price that i can get a better trailer and another 140 rude as well. but i want to try and revive this one first if possible.

 

[dazk14]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - in progress again

Did I see 'starting fluid' in one of the latest posts? I do not believe you may get 2% oil-mix starting fluid!!!

1st question- Yes you did - I'm surprised it took this long for someone to get excited. If he's added lubricant, adding what quickly turns to vapor may save him a lot of headaches in a poorly equipped garage.

2nd question - Well, now you are aware. We make it up in-house. Very easy to to do.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

ok, thanks to all of your suggestions.

Here is what i did tonight. First was to check the spark, Spark A-OK, next replace the plugs with Champions, Plugs replaced and Spark A-OK, next tried to start it up and nothing....... Sprayed in some pre-mix, sans the exotic sprayer, and VIOLA........ nothing . Smelled the plugs and, nothing, hmmm interesting. So just to be on the safe side, swapped out gas tanks with a new one i had on the side mixed 50:1, primed it again and VIOLA....still no run or even an attempt to try and kick over..... so now i left all plugs removed and connected to the plug wires and continued to turn it over, curious thing, no gas smell or gas coming out. continued to crank it over until i started so see some mist actually come out of all 4 cylinders. While doing this the plugs actually ignited some of the gas shooting out, just a few little poofs So now sensing that all seemed good, cleaned the plugs and put them back in. turned the key and some signs of life as it tried to kick over...... water on full blast and away we go again, fingers crossed, feet crossed and if i could have i would have crossed my toes....... then V I O L A......the sleeping girl has awaken with a might cough and some very heavy smoke...... turn it over again and she roars to life and this time she keeps on running...... slowly increase the speed a little and let it sit for about 5 minutes while she ran and the smoke cleared..........HOORAY!!!!!


Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions and help. now to find a good control box and in the water she goes for a sea trial... I really appreciate it guys.

this one can be closed out!

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

I'm thinking your choke isn't working

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Hey EZ, choke is working and and so is the electrical choke. All is good now that it has had a chance to blow out and run. IT IS ALIVE.......

now if anyone has a control box that they want to get rid of for a reasonable price i am in the market for one....

 

[Haffiman]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Goooood news!
While you are searching for a remote, check the oil in lower unit and put some grease on the propeller shaft.
When running on muffs, keep below 1500 rpm.

 

[dazk14]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

All is good now that it has had a chance to blow out and run. IT IS ALIVE.......

We've seen it hundreds of times with older moth-balled motors. Bridge the re-awakening ignition gap between 450rpm cranking and 800rpm running and all sorts of positives occur. Get the correct fuel into the combustion chamber - for the initial start - and off it goes.

What is wrong with your control box?

If it doesn't run well on the water with throttle, do not temp fate - or a piston - by "pushing it". Check head temperatures at idle on muffs and once after planing.

Again, I haven't read through all the posts.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - RESOLVED!!!!

the problem with the control box is that the PO broke the key off in the switch, the throttle does not work when using the handle but will with the cold start, every screw was frozen in place even after several days of soaking or trying to anyway, with penetrating fluid, wd40 and various other fluids to no avail. so in trying to get the control box apart the front cover screws sheared off, the top plate cover screws did the same thing, and inside the wiring is cut, buzzer corroded, grease is solid and on and on and on and on...............

The electric choke does work well, the tilt/trim work both up and down, but will need to be rewired as the PO just cut the wires close to the box, the trim switch is corroded inside and will have to be replaced. But, all that aside, i was able to wire it up and get it to go up and down but it will not stay up and comes down shortly after it is raised.

lower unit oil will be replaced, new water pump installed and prop shaft greased also. it does seem to run well on the muffs but then again i did not rev it up high at all, did not have a load on it, and it only ran for about 10 mins on the muffs. i will be checking the head temps with a digital laser temp reader once i have the oil and water pump changed.

any ideas on the tilt/trim?? i think the book says something about chekcing V1, v9. v7 and follow chart F......

oh and i need to find the obsolete, no longer in stock motor cover seal...... I have been trying to find that all night.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - Question again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - Question again

figured i would ask on my original thread instead of starting another.

Thanks to all for the help in getting it running. i do have another question

the TNT works up and down but will not hold the motor up for any length of time. as soon as it is up it starts to come down. there are not fluids leaking that i can see anywhere. i have the OB off the boat now and would like to rebuild it with new seals. i have tried to find a "kit" but have had no luck with the local marinas or online. everyone wants to sell them seperately. Is there a kit for it and where would i be able to find one? i did see one on the bay but the seller is of no help as he does not respond. the only thing i got from him is if it is a eaton pump it will work and i have no idea how to tell or what he is talking about.

any help???

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - Question again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - Question again

Rather rude of me, sorry guys, here is a short video of your successful help...... Thank you very much for the help again.

oh yeah, turn your monitors sideways

 

[pcrussell50]

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - Question again

Re: 1975 Evinrude 140 - Question again

there may very well not be a pre-assembled "seal kit". if not, you will have to pick them out individually. go to:

shop2.evinrude.com

and find your year and model. pick the menu for "power tilt and trim", and then select the seals individually. just remember that there never was a 140hp in 1975. i don't know if there are differences in the PTnT parts from the 135hp down to the 85hp. my guess would be that there is not. so as long as your motor really is a 1975, you should be able to shop for PTnT parts from that range of horsepower.

-peter

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1977 Evinrude 140 not 1975 - Question again

Re: 1977 Evinrude 140 not 1975 - Question again

pcrussell50 thanks for stopping in

you are correct, it is actually a 1977 140hp, i thought from previous post, and i would have to look again, that others had identified it as a "bubble back" because of the cross over exhaust and bubble between the V...i am not knowledgeable enough yet to know the difference and rely on the knowledge here.

 

[pcrussell50]

Re: 1977 Evinrude 140 not 1975 - Question again

Re: 1977 Evinrude 140 not 1975 - Question again

yes i finally saw the bubbleback in the video. good news for you. now get going picking out new seals from the diagram on shop2.evirude.com

-peer