1978 bmc

[Treyu]

Re: 1978 bmc

If you want maroon, you will need to buy the Rustoleum RED for your BASE color. Then Some Blue, Black and or Yellow

Then use a combination of one of these...

Cool: Start with the primary red color, add a small amount of primary blue (you can always add more later, be careful, too much will make purple), and then add black until you achieve the tone of maroon that you want.

Warm: Same as above, except instead of the blue you would use a small amount of yellow to achieve a warm maroon that will have a hint of a brown color as its base (you can not add brown itself to it, as it is not a primary color and will create mud).

I picked up the sandpaper and fiberglass repair for a few spots where something had been pulled off the hull.

My plan of attack is:

1. Fix the fiberglass spots with a fiberglass repair from Wal-mart and sand with 180 (after 80 if I need to).
2. Finish removing all the glue from the floor and storage lids.
3. Sand everything with 180 grit and wipe down with acetone. (How much will I need you think?)
4. Add two coats of Marine Primer (how much will I need?)
5. Paint ______ color using the method woodonglass provided (how much of the topside will I need).
6. Drill two holes to add my accessory plugs for my floating lights.
7. Use Lowes outdoor carpet glue with Lowes outdoor carpet.
8. My Dad is going to make me wooden covers where my gauges were (install them)
9. Run my bow, stern, accessory, battery level gauge, trolling motor plug, etc

10. Oh yeah, find a motor.....

That sound about right? Please feel free to add ANY and ALL comments to that plan of action!

Thanks!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1978 bmc

1 gallon of Acetone, 2 qts of Primer and Paint
That Fiberglass you bought has WAX in it so Make sure you Sand with 80 Grit and wipe with acetone between layers of mat and resin or your adhesion will fail.
That stuff is NOT very good stuff. You Might look into Bondo Hair to fill those big gouges first. Leave them a little low and then lay in a few layers of mat and resin to bring it all flush then sand smooth. NOT the best method but would get you by MAYBE!!!! It would be better to use an unwaxed laminating resin and make your own filler for those gouges. Not sure if you can find the materials for that locally.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1978 bmc

Remember .. when color matching ( especially paints ) let it DRY up !!

The Shade will change when cured ... When you think you got it .. it can Change when fully cured. Its an art m8.

Yellow is not Yellow.. there are Red Swing Yellows..and there are Green Yellows ..

Know your Yellow base when using it.

Colors can Wash out other colors in the match ( IE. you can take Bright white and add a bit of blue pigment to "brighten" it up).

Dont mix your whole batch of paint/gel at one time .. Colors Go weird sometimes .. Almost impossible to bring back to lighter colors.

Color matching can b e very hard.

Stick with Yellows ( with red shade ) ..be Very carefull adding Black or Red or Solid Yellow. .. Can Change Fast !!

YD.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1978 bmc

^^^^Totally irrelevant since he's painting the boat.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1978 bmc

^^^^Totally irrelevant since he's painting the boat.

What is irrelevant ? .. the color match..or the ??

YD.

 

[Treyu]

Re: 1978 bmc

Through the help and encouragement of this forum I have decided I am going to do this restoration right from the start and make a boat that lasts me years, not just a few seasons.

The rear of the boat is actually in better shape than I imagined, much of the dmg and disrepair that I saw is simply rotted supports for the gas tank and batteries. I'm a hack carpenter but I think I have enough skills to fabricate and fix the back end pretty easy.

The issue I am worried about is the floor near the bow. I originally planned on living with the problem and tackling it once it go worse but this board made me change my mind. I have since torn into the completely soft sections but the problem I now face is how I can replace the front of the floor without major difficulty. I don't have the means or money to doing anything major like splittling the boat. Is it possible to replace those front sections some other way?

Oh, the good news I found so far is that the foam isn't really waterlogged. I'm not sure why it isn't, but all I found was very light foam with little to no water in it. Also, I have noticed that the majority of the floor is very close to the hull and when I felt of the short stringers (I think it was anyway) it was very hard with no give whatsoever.

Thanks again for all the help. I couldn't do it without you guys.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1978 bmc

I don't have the means or money to doing anything major like splittling the boat. Is it possible to replace those front sections some other way?

Based on your pics, I'm afraid you are going to have some major repairs. It appears to me that you will need to remove the entire deck. If there is ANY water below the deck and in the foam, IT WILL NEVER DRY OUT and it will need to be removed. The stringer may Appear to be ok but you will need to drill into them to be sure. if you get light tan DRY shaving then OK if not then THEY will have to be removed and replace and THAT means a LOT of work and MORE expense. SORRY but this could be MORE than you want to deal with.

 

[Treyu]

Re: 1978 bmc

I don't have the means or money to doing anything major like splittling the boat. Is it possible to replace those front sections some other way?

Based on your pics, I'm afraid you are going to have some major repairs. It appears to me that you will need to remove the entire deck. If there is ANY water below the deck and in the foam, IT WILL NEVER DRY OUT and it will need to be removed. The stringer may Appear to be ok but you will need to drill into them to be sure. if you get light tan DRY shaving then OK if not then THEY will have to be removed and replace and THAT means a LOT of work and MORE expense. SORRY but this could be MORE than you want to deal with.

Removing the deck would require removing the rub rail and rivets and then working on the glue that holds the two pieces together, is that correct?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1978 bmc

Yes.

 

[Treyu]

Re: 1978 bmc

What would the cost be for splitting and reinstalling in terms of parts. Just a ballpark.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1978 bmc

Hard to say...You will have to find out if the stringers are bad and the transom. Worse case Scenario I'd say $750 to $1,000 bucks. You will need Plywood, Fiberglass, Resin, Mat, Cloth, Paint, Seats, Batteries. By the time you're all done buying a motor and restoring the boat you'll have $1,500 bucks in her. BUT, you will KNOW that you have a SOLID boat and IT will last for DECADES. You CAN'T buy a boat ANYWHERE for that, that will be in as good of shape as this one will be when you get done. BUT it is an old boat and it WILL be a LOT of work. You CAN do it and WE WILL help you all along the way.

Your decision!

 

[Treyu]

Re: 1978 bmc

Hard to say...You will have to find out if the stringers are bad and the transom. Worse case Scenario I'd say $750 to $1,000 bucks. You will need Plywood, Fiberglass, Resin, Mat, Cloth, Paint, Seats, Batteries. By the time you're all done buying a motor and restoring the boat you'll have $1,500 bucks in her. BUT, you will KNOW that you have a SOLID boat and IT will last for DECADES. You CAN'T buy a boat ANYWHERE for that, that will be in as good of shape as this one will be when you get done. BUT it is an old boat and it WILL be a LOT of work. You CAN do it and WE WILL help you all along the way.

Your decision!

So I was able to remove the entire deck today. One outside stringer is bad, the transom is rock solid, and only a few (4-5) small pieces of foam were bad in the entire boat. I was able to remove the floor by cutting and pulling sections out. The bad stringer is only an inch or so tall and maybe 3 1/2 feet long. My question is, can I put a new floor down in 2 or 3 sections then join them together with something along the lines of liquid nail? If that is possible I can do the deck without being forced to separate the hull.

Also, should I take it out and do a leak test while I have the entire deck out, that is if the above question plausible. As always, thanks for the help!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1978 bmc

Need some pics. What did you do to ensure the transom and stringers were good?

 

[Treyu]

Re: 1978 bmc

Need some pics. What did you do to ensure the transom and stringers were good?

I drilled the stringers and use a rubber mallet on the transom. My main issue with the deck is being able to secure the 2 or 4 pieces with no give. I think I can split the deck so that it falls on the center stringer and then add a nailer/support for the cross section portion. The boat is at an alternate location and I am out of town for a week but I take pics as soon as I get back.

Thanks,
Trey

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1978 bmc

Pounding the transom is NOT sufficient, You need to drill it as well. NOT all the way thru but about an inch deep in various locations about 2- 3 inches above the hull and see what you get. Light tan dry shavings and THEN you are good to go. Securing the deck will NOT be and issue. We'll discuss that when the time comes. Right now we need to concentrate on getting the stringers and transom figured out and solid.