1979 Evinrude 85hp Ignition Switch Wiring

[th08tu]

Hello. I am new to this forum but I have been following along for a while. I recently picked up a very good priced Peterborough tri-hull with an 85hp Evinrude Engine. The seller showed me the engine running well, everything to do with the motor and controls was in very good working order. The only issue was that it needed a new ignition switch. I purchased a new one from the marina (Sierra Brand) and the guy at the marina told me it was pretty much plug and play.

I got home, changed it out and to be honest I did struggle trying to figure out what went where. It was not an exact match. I double check that is was the correct one for the boat and it is, but now I have an issue.

Here is what is happening:

When I turn the key to the ON position, nothing happens. When I push it in for the Choke, it runs the starter and the engine starts up. When I let go from what should be the choke the engine will stay running. When it is running now though it smokes like crazy, way more than normal. If I turn the key to what should be the start position, the buzzer goes off, regardless if the engine is running or not. Also, now the tach doesn't work. (It did before)

I'm really hoping I just put one of the wires in the wrong spot and it is a simple fix. I have attached pictures of the back of the old ignition and the wiring diagram for the new one.

Thank you all for your help!

 

[th08tu]

Just an update to the smoking, I am thinking that is probably unrelated. I put some seafoam in the gas and after reading around here it sounds like that can cause white smoke from the engine. As soon as I can get the ignition fixed I'll get it out on the water to let it clear out out there.

For the ignition, would it be safe to switch the choke and ignition connections? Does it sound like that is what I have backwards?

 

[Joe Reeves]

If your wires are a different color than what I list here, let us know.

B - Purple/Red
M - Raised terminal = Black/Yellow (kill circuit to powerpack)
M - Normal terminal = Black (ground)
C - Choke = Purple/White
A or I - 12v when key is at ON or at START = Purple
S - Starter Solenoid = White or Yellow/Red

 

[th08tu]

Thank you Joe for the Reply. I have the yellow red wire on the C. so that sounds like problem number one.

It looks like I'm not the first one to be messing in this box however, as the remainder of the wires (Aside from the Red Battery) are either black or blue.

Heres what I think I have done:

B - Purple/Red - CORRECT
M - Raised terminal = Black/Yellow (kill circuit to powerpack) - CORRECT
M - Normal terminal = Black (ground) - CORRECT
C - Choke = Purple/White - I HAVE YELLOW AND RED ON THIS
A or I - 12v when key is at ON or at START = Purple - UNSURE ON THIS I HAVE A SMALL BLUE AND SMALL BLACK WIRE AFTER CONNECTING THE ABOUT
S - Starter Solenoid = White or Yellow/Red - UNSURE ON THIS I HAVE A SMALL BLUE AND SMALL BLACK WIRE AFTER CONNECTING THE ABOUT

Thank you again!

 

[th08tu]

I got it going. I was able to pull back the wiring a bit to find the original wiring and everything matched what described above. I had to move three wires, but put it all back together and it works like a charm. Thank you very much!

 

[Joe Reeves]

We knew you could do it.

 

[th08tu]

So just to revive this, I've got a new problem. Took the boat out yesterday around dusk. It was not dark enough to be needing lights, but I wanted to see if they worked. When I pulled on the switch (2 Stage silver switch on the dash) it killed the engine. I only pulled it for half a second so as soon as I heard it cause an issue with the engine I put it back in and continued on my way back to the dock.

So, where would you start with this? Because the boat is so old I am half thinking to just pull out the old switch and install a new switch and all new wiring, but is there a simple fix to this?

Thank you!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Either that light switch is wired in such a manner that when engaged, it either............

1 - Throws 12v at the ignition system which will destroy the $$$$$ ignition electronics (Not Good!).

2 - Grounds out the ignition system in some manner, possibly harmless via the normal ignition "kill circuit" but don't chance that route as it could also be a fire hazard via a slow working short.

The proper cure is to remove the entire running light wiring system from the boat, then rewire the lights which is a most simple matter to do. Use a inline 20amp fuse in the voltage supply wire. Rocket science mentality not required... one of my cats could do it!

 

[th08tu]

Thank you again Joe!

I'm thinking that makes the most sense too, I'd like to be able to wire in a switch for the bilge pump as well as possibly a radio down the line, so I think a rewire was in order anyways.

If I'm pulling out the old switch, is it fine to just trace the wires back and pull them? obviously the ones for the lights I am going to keep, but I think I'll just replace the switch and run a new power supply from the battery as you propose.