1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

If you have access to a special "peak reading" voltmeter, you may be able to check the voltage output on the stator. Should be 200 volts minimum. Low voltages can give you random spark. 12.5 volts is normal battery voltage. If your voltmeter never changes, then the battery may not be charging. Since the engine makes it's own power to run the ignition system, it may take some time for the boat to drain the battery down. The only things that will discharge a battery is the power trim, the starter and any accessories on the boat. If you don't run the radio, horn or fishfinder, the battery can go for months without being charged.

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

Josh been through all the carbs 3 times now, everytime with new kits. I'm quite confident its not fuel related just waiting on my DVA adapter to run tests on all the electrical components.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

For the charging issue:
. Check AC voltage across yellows to RR ... that's AC
. You should get > 25 VAC. If OK stator is OK, if not stator is likely bad.
. Check RR diodes with ohmeter.
. Carefully check all wiring condition and terminations.

The following is from CDI:
Rectifier/Regulator Tests
1. With all wires connected and the engine running at approximately 1500 RPM, check the DVA voltage from each battery charge wire (typically Yellow wire) to engine ground. The two readings must be within 1.5 volts of each other (i.e. if one is reading 20 volts, the other has to read between 18.5 and 21.5 volts). If the readings are not equal, go to step 3. If they are equal, go to step 2.
2. Check DVA voltage from each of the Yellow wires to the Red wire going to the solenoid. The two readings must be within 1.5 volts of each other. If the readings are unequal, go to step 3. If they are equal on both this step and step 1, the rectifier/regulator and battery charging portion of the stator are good.
3. If the readings are unequal, place a mark across the connection between the stator and rectifier/regulator that measured low. Turn the engine off and swap the stator leads. Crank the engine up and retest. The component (stator or rectifier/regulator) that has the marked wire with the low reading is bad.
4. Disconnect the regulator?s Gray wire. At 800-1000 RPM, check the DVA voltage on the Gray wire FROM THE REGULATOR measured to engine ground. The reading should be at least 8V DVA. If below 8V DVA, see TACHOMETER TESTS below.
Rectifier/Regulator Bench Tests
1. Diode plate check:
With all wires disconnected from the rectifier/regulator, using a meter set on its Diode scale, test the diodes
from each of the two battery charge wires/terminals (typically Yellow wires/terminals) to the Red wire/terminal.
You should get a reading one way but not the other. Check the resistance from each of the Yellow
wires/terminals to case ground. You should have a high reading, typically in the M range. The Red
wire/terminal should not read to ground, but may show a very high reading (25M ohms or more).
2. Tachometer Circuit:
With all wires disconnected from the rectifier/regulator, check resistance between the Gray wire and engine
ground. You should read approximately 10K (10,000) ohms. Both (Gray to Red) and (Gray to each of the
Yellow) wires should be a high reading, typically in the M range.

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

While waiting on my DVA adapter I still got out today and did some resistance tests. Stator passed to the power pack but my timing base seemed a little funny.

Port Side
A Terminal: 18 ohms
B Terminal: no reading meter didn't move
C Terminal 17 ohms

Starbord Side
A Terminal: 16
B Terminal: 22
C Terminal 16

All of these readings are in the upper portion of the maximum limit and the B terminal on the Port side didn't make the meter do a thing, which I'm not fimilar with this multimeter so I believe its infinity. Will post more results as they come in.

 

[SparkieBoat]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

do post your DVA readings..could be timer base..but i agree with other post about possibly being over propped. 24 is a big pitch.

 

[Thompy_04]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

I'll post DVA numbers when my adapter comes in. The boat that its on is really light, I'm thinking 2000lbs tourney loaded (livewells full, 18 gallons fuel, gear, and a partner). Prop my be a bit on the stiff side but I'm sure I could turn more than 4500. My idle is horrible still too, cleared up for a bit then got even worse than it was before I rebuilt the carbs. I had it idling great and was working on setup till this came about to tell you guys the truth. It sounds horrible at idle on the muffs, as you can hear the difference in a good idling motor and a poor one, and one in awhile just sitting at idle it will "race" to 2k or so.

Oh forgot to mention all coils passed a resistance test in my last post.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1979 Johnson 150 "kick"

They don't idle at as well on the hose as in the water. They need the backpressure to idle down.
You might try a barrel if you can find one big enough.

My 150hp is all over the place on a hose but idles like a clock in the salt.