1981 Checkmate Enticer

[schimmi021]

Last fall i bought an 81 checkmate enticer with a 115 merc. I got it for cheap and am looking to fix it up a bit. One things im going to replace is the floor. the floor is wood right now, but the wood is sort of built into the fiberglass body. After trying to figure out how to get the wood out and replace it, a friend suggested why not just fiberglass over the existing floor to seal it and reinforce it. This seems like a good idea to me so I'm wondering what everybody else thinks. It will definitely be easier than replacing the wood so is it a good or bad idea?

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

I'm under the assumption that the current floor is soft due to moisture and rot.

Sadly, once a wood/fiberglass deck gets wet, it won't ever, ever dry and will continue rotting. You'll have to rip it up. Since the deck is bad it's quite possible that your stringers and transom are bad. You'll want to make some core samples to assess the situation

 

[schimmi021]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

The transom seems to be in good shape actually.... what is the best way to rip out the floor when it is fiberglassed to the hull?

 

[osborn159]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

welcome, what i did with mine was a circular saw set to about 5/8 deep started near center going fore and aft, then work to the gunwales(small pieces) till i was leary of cutting thru the hull, which happened anyway, mine made out of f/g and glass is forgiving when penetrated, i started with the floors and ended up cutting out stringers and transom as well, about ready to start reassembly. a sawzall, razor knives, pry bars, a grinder with 18,36,50 grit, as well as saftey gear all come in handy as well
good luck with her, its insanity at its finest.
by the way that will b a nice rig when your done, take your time, ask ???S if you dont know
Dennis

 

[schimmi021]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

so should i go all the way back under the transom and pull the gas tank out and all of the tilt and trim lines and pumps and everything? Originally i was debating only going back to the gas tank but now it seems like i should rip it all out.

 

[schimmi021]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

also im sort of confused about how to get the transom out. Isn't there sort of fiberglass on all side of the wooden transom?

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

also im sort of confused about how to get the transom out. Isn't there sort of fiberglass on all side of the wooden transom?

usually want to go from the inside. Cut out the fiberglass skin and remove the old wood (24 grit discs in an angle grinder, hammer/crowbar/chisel), bond new wood to it and glass over

edit: If you have an outboard transom the job is a bit more intensive. I believe you have to remove the cap

 

[schimmi021]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

I have an outboard transom... I really don't think i will need to redo the transom it seems really solid

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: 1981 Checkmate Enticer

I have an outboard transom... I really don't think i will need to redo the transom it seems really solid

Personally I'd take a couple core samples just to be sure. I'm not too knowledgeable in outboards to from what I know, you shouldn't be able to flex the transom at all by wiggling the outboard, if that helps.

Decks seem to be held in by screws into the stringers and also tabbed with fiberglass where it meets the hull. As mentioned an angle grinder is useful for cutting the tabbing. Harbor freight also has a depth...depth keeper? I don't know what the term is but a device you put on an angle grinder which will keep it cutting at a predetermined height. If you cut through the hull it's not the end of the world and is pretty easy to fix. You can check the stringers at that point and remove any wet foam that may be lurking under there.

You'll want to use the basic safety equipment if you don't already. I personally used a cartridge respirator with "P99" cartridges, full goggles (have to cut the nose area for the respirator though lol), a tyvek suit, and leather gloves. I've used steel cutting wheels for cutting glass and 24 grit sanding wheels for grinding which work pretty well. The above things are available at places like Lowes. Fiberglass dust isn't particularly good for the lungs and won't ever leave them so a good respirator is important. P99 is the spec you want for fiberglass dust. The tyvek suit (usually called a painter's suit, wish stores would sell something smalled than XXL) will help keep it off your skin.

There's plenty of good outboard runabout restorations on this forum that you can use for reference but as always feel free to ask questions