1982 200hp high-performance "Franken-motor" hybrid build serial number 6033659 block casting has the J92W stamp

[acadian2022]

Good morning everyone. I'm working on this high-performance "Franken-motor" hybrid build. and backing de current design from a racer that was set to perform at somewhat I guess design and locked at 22deg BTDC and the intent now is to roll some of this back. it had a different flywheel added the wrong flywheel cover the timing pointer missing. after intense reading / consulting I was able to get thing all done accept for one possible missing trigger advance linkage assembly. if you look at the picture is there a linkage missing from the trigger beside D and the actual advance arm A? reason I'm asking after finding TDC moving the flywheel literally pulling the flywheel off and moving one hole over = 1 x 45deg to point to my new timing pointer and trimmed the idle to 2 deg BTDC for now sparkplugs out grounded properly constant voltage to starter to maintain a true 300RPM to perform timing and trottle cable disconnected when I manually move Arm C forward Arm A does not and online research suggest I'm missing a linkage rod between A and the trigger advance assembly is that correct?

 

[acadian2022]

added

 

[Dukedog]

"reason I'm asking after finding TDC moving the flywheel literally pulling the flywheel off and moving one hole over"..

don't know what you're workin' with but this CANNOT be done with any V6 merc... tha flywheel will only go on one way and one way only no mater tha flywheel and/or crank... below is dia of all tha parts you need in relation to what you're workin' with... if ya took tha center hub loose and moved it then ya gonna have a big problem..... tha magnets in tha hub are "clocked " to work with tha magnets in tha flywheel as an assembly....

THROTTLE LEVER AND SHIFT SHAFT - 1982 Outboard 200 [ELPT] 1200622 | Crowley Marine

View parts diagrams and shop online for THROTTLE LEVER AND SHIFT SHAFT parts, 1982 Outboard 200 [ELPT] 1200622. Offering discount prices on OEM parts for over 50 years. FAST $4.95 shipping available.

www.crowleymarine.com

 

[acadian2022]

Hi thank you very much for your help. as for the diagram you provided and my pictures I dont see anything missing on my engine then. trying to figure out in relation with C arm and the the trigger assembly what makes the A move to advance timming? as for the flywheel from the info I found online its an aftermarket racing flywheel that was installed and the original was discarted by the racing original builder and from what I've followed is by moving the the 8 center nuts off by one hole = moving the flywheel by 45 deg to line up the flywheel marking to line up with the original timing indicator to be able to time this engine back to or close to original specs 1 to 2 deg BTDC and then I'm to adjust the advance timming to 22 deg BTDC. in order to achieve this I also had to do the same with the 8 perimeter bolts I will attach the flywheel picture. the reason behind all of this is from my understanding the engine was built for drag racing and the timing idle was not a priority for the previous owner it was set at 22deg BTDC apparently so out of the hole it woul fly

 

[Dukedog]

flywheel is a flywheel no mater for racing and/or stock.. in any case if tha center hub is clocked different than its supposed ta be it will never run right period.. you cannot change tha "hub" position on tha crank.. its a one and only position.. i'm having a hard time visualizing jus what you are doin' and which parts you are talkin' 'bout?.. "C" arm? tha control is actually two parts.. tha bottom is for throttle and tha top is for timin'.. tha bottom has more travel than tha top.. thats where you adjust ALL timing, both idle and full advance....

think best thing for ya is to find a OEM manual for it and do some serious reading....

 

[acadian2022]

Hi Captain. the reason I'm in this forum is for the best advice I could find and was skeptical of the suggestion I received locally and I do trust your suggestion the issue is because this engine is a custom built prior to me it is very difficult to find info as to what I'm trying to achieve. let me attempt to try and clarify. this engine was modified for racing the original flywheel and flywheel cover is not original for this block nor is the flywheel cover that is currently on this supposibly racing flywheel and the original timing indicator was removed. at the time of my first water test the engine would bugg down before I could reach ex 2000 rpm. after countless hours of research I find out as per the title what this engine was all about set immediately on startup at 22deg BTDC and was built not to be sitting on perfect idle but to gun it asap after startup (drag racer built). so after lots of reading about I was told in order to be able to time this engine non racer and on a standard function exemple start up engine to sit on idle at exemple 1 to 2 deg BTDC and for WOT at 22 deg BTDC I would have to make the following correction. 1 appenrently the previous owner installed the flywheel off by 45 deg and to remove the 8 center bolts and shift it by one hole closest to where the original timing indicator pointer should be. then the other ring 8 bolts removed and line up that ring and its stamped numbers in this case 462 line = TDC and mechanically find TDC on cylinder one re install the 8 outter bolts back. please keep in mind I'm not in anyway doubting your comments my not at all this is why I'm here to give this engine its best chance not to damage it. the conclusion is now that I've done this and engine is still off line sparkplugs out and grounded start test using constant clean DC power to spin de starter using the timing light if I've done the above correctly on idle I set it to 2deg BTDC. my issue is that when I manually move my trottle arm forward all the way for carbs to be fully open the advance arm never move mind you for all I know the engine must now be fully operation sparkplugs back in fuel connected and start it use the controller to trottle it in gear and start increasing to see if advance timming arm would move? now I'm A ok to back all the above work I've done reposition that flywheel back one hole etc. to all I want to express how I appreciate this site it has always found the answer to all my previous post Kudos to all members that helps guys like me that are only trying as best as possible to fix issues to hit the water.

 

[acadian2022]

 

[acadian2022]

 

[acadian2022]

To add I'm wondering perhaps it was only the outter 8 bolts that should have been touched to move the ring that has the timing marks to line up with my mickey mouse homemade indicator until the original arrive ? and have not touch the flywheel center nut

 

[acadian2022]

here is a video of my question about advance arm not moving when I manually move the trottle arm

 

[Dukedog]

i gottcha now... thats something we did many, many years ago.. it worked at tha time but i'm 80+ now and have way to many coffee stains on this ole noggin' ta remember much from back then.. back off tha max timin' screw.... what is your goal with this motor...

jan: most of tha motors we used back then with a locked down full advance were left hand rotation motors also.. reason was type gearcases and props we used.. so there was that!

 

[Dukedog]

also check tha spring that goes between tha two pieces to make sure its intact and installed with tha two tangs inserted correctly.. also justa another note tha '82 200 had horizontal front half which yours does not.....

do you know if its a 2.0 or 2.4 motor?

 

[Dukedog]

look in this general area for a "date stamp" on tha block.. its there but may be hard ta make out..... may be behind tha timin' arm but its a general area.... will be mo/day/yr... may even be on tha flange of tha block half..

 

[acadian2022]

Hi. only want to use this engine on my 25'x8' aluninum tank I have to say Im still not 100% sure perhaps that flywheel cover and flywheel is original and should go back and use the flywheel cover and line up TDC 2deg BTDC using the flywheel markings and not use my Mickey Mouse indicator I fabricated I will wait for you or anyone to jump in and guide serial number on the frost plug me. this all started at the end of last season here in NB went out for the first time and discovered or mislead that the engine was locked at 22BTDC it would bugged down close to 2000 RPM. ive check all the standard possible issues first like fuel pump tank air vac line etc.nk boat serial number on the frost plug is

6033659​

 

[Dukedog]

they look to be original but have been altered...

I've searched numerous sites "including" merc/brunswick and they do not show your motor.. Ai does say its an '82 (tha date stamp will verify this) but no horsepower rating... seems there are several serial numbers out there that do not show up anywhere on tha web.. have seen it many times.. think you would be way ahead by replacing anything not original to it with stock parts.. jmo.

looks ta me like someone was trying ta make it something its not gonna be (called budget racing) with what they did to it...

as for horsepower tha most it could be in that configuration is a 175.. even if its a 2.4 liter.... if its a 2.0 it will be less... still they are a solid, durable motor if they haven't been abused... yours "looks" ta be in very good shape.....

 

[acadian2022]

Good evening. see pic

 

[Dukedog]

your motor IS NOT a 2.5 in any way........... can you send a pic of tha heads.. that will tell me if its gen 1 or gen 2 block.. gen 1 ended in '83.. gen 2 ended in '91...

.bout tha only way to be sure of 2.4 or 2.0 is pull a head.. it should have a little circle stampe on tha upper part of tha head with either 3 1/8 or 3 3/8 inside tha circle.. this is a clue but a lotta folks ran tha smaller chambered heads (3 1/8) on tha 2.4 for compression....

another clue is tha front half holdin' tha reeds.. yours is whats know as vertical.. All 200's had horizonal front half's..

have you looked for tha build date?

 

[Dukedog]

Ai has no clue about tha 1st, 2nd and 2.5 style blocks starting and stopping!!!.. it says that first gen started in '76 (true) but also says it ended in '91 (not true)..... also says only 2 generations when there are actually 3.... so much for Ai..........

 

[Dukedog]

finally found your serial number:

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Your Mercury serial number 6033659 identifies your engine as a 1982 Mercury 150 HP V6 (2.0L) outboard motor. [1, 2]

 

[acadian2022]

Thank you so much for your time on this.... last year needed parts and a local mercury repair and sale store looked up that serial number and found it in the mercury data base as a 200hp not that it makes any difference to me. I will upload head picture etc standby