1985 century cts rebuild

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jbcurt00

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Measuring across the underside of the cap, may be accurate enough. How well did the cap 'fit' after you unscrewed it, but had not yet lifted it off the hull?

Just be sure to measure between the same to places on the cap & the correct matching spots on the hull.

Make sure to note that it's an inside to inside of the cap measure, but OUTSIDE TO OUTSIDE of the hull dimension.
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Measuring across the underside of the cap, may be accurate enough. How well did the cap 'fit' after you unscrewed it, but had not yet lifted it off the hull?
The Cap was easy to lift off with about 1/16" to play with. The cap was a little larger. The hull has a lot of "flex" in it with the cap off, at least 4" when I pull it back and forth

Just be sure to measure between the same to places on the cap & the correct matching spots on the hull.

I will make sure to mark a few spots on both cap and hull.

Make sure to note that it's an inside to inside of the cap measure, but OUTSIDE TO OUTSIDE of the hull dimension.
I will remember!!. THANK YOU.. the pressure is off me now.


Question: Is it alright for me to take out the port side stringer now, or should I do them one at a time?? The hull is on a trailer with 2- 7 foot carpeted planks on each side for support, plus a center runner going the full length of the hull on each side of the keel.
Question: I do not have a transom that I can see. (wood encased I mean). I only have a small pc. of wood that covers the exhaust exits on transom. Should I remove these 2 pcs. and replace??

Thank you all very much !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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chconger

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Question: Is it alright for me to take out the port side stringer now, or should I do them one at a time?? The hull is on a trailer with 2- 7 foot carpeted planks on each side for support, plus a center runner going the full length of the hull on each side of the keel.


Most folks here seem do them all at once.....except me. I had 4 stringers, did them one at a time, always maintained 3 stringers as a reference for the one under reno. I was also concerned with maintaining the hull shape.

One-at-a-time is probably slower, certainly you are dealing with the dust longer. But its a bit less daunting to eat in smaller bites.




Question: I do not have a transom that I can see. (wood encased I mean). I only have a small pc. of wood that covers the exhaust exits on transom. Should I remove these 2 pcs. and replace??

If rot has not started in there at all, anywhere, I don't see the need. If you want to be sure...then seems like a small addition to your to do list. (without seeing pictures)

Cheers
Chris
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Most folks here seem do them all at once.....except me. I had 4 stringers, did them one at a time, always maintained 3 stringers as a reference for the one under reno. I was also concerned with maintaining the hull shape.

One-at-a-time is probably slower, certainly you are dealing with the dust longer. But its a bit less daunting to eat in smaller bites.






If rot has not started in there at all, anywhere, I don't see the need. If you want to be sure...then seems like a small addition to your to do list. (without seeing pictures)

Cheers
Chris


Thank you Chris.
I will poke into the exhaust area and go from there.. I have taken many measurements of the stringers, so I feel good about doing all at once. The first grinding dust storm made a total mess of the garage, so I do not want to repeat over and over. I will post more picks when things are ground down and clean. THANK YOU again and again......... John
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

So I cut out the glass around the exhaust and ... yup. rot...........
Here is the result of some work for the day.......414.jpg404.jpg
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Had a chance to "grind" last night. 4 hours later, I got half the boat done. Very dusty!! I never knew that glass can fly. Going to try to finish up tonight and Sunday. I tried using 4" grinding disks and 4" flapper disks. My favorite is the flapper disk (40grit). It leaves a much smoother end finish on the fiberglass. Has anyone found a better way to grind..just wondered. Will try to get some finish pics of grinding to you soon. I guess the next step is to find some douglas fir 6 x 18 for the main stringers. Right?
 

further

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

I too am in the middle of the grinding misery lol. The glass dust is ridiculous. I've found that the 24 grit resin coated disks on a rubber backup pad work way better than the flappers. 24 grit chews through the lips and tabs real quick.
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

I too am in the middle of the grinding misery lol. The glass dust is ridiculous. I've found that the 24 grit resin coated disks on a rubber backup pad work way better than the flappers. 24 grit chews through the lips and tabs real quick.

Thank You further! The 24 grit worked like a charm. I collected all the dust and it filled a 10 gallon bucket. Wondered if anyone ever re-used the dust to make PB?? Just a thought. I will post pics tonight. --still itching, John
 

further

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Lookin good man!! I'm about the same with the dust - so much. Glad the 24 grit works for ya. Damn I got way more to go though...:faint2:
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Have a question for anyone........ I noticed a lighter colored area at the stern starboard side of boat... Is this OK???DSCN5712.jpg
 

further

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Looks like maybe a previous patch? Any noticeable difference on the outside skin in this area?
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Have a question for anyone........ I noticed a lighter colored area at the stern starboard side of boat... Is this OK???View attachment 212271
Is it sanded from the outside?
The reason I ask is that fiberglass looks translucent when any color coats on it are removed...
If that is not the case, then it could be a huge air bubble that never got popped at the factory, in which case you might want to grind out and redo that area...
 
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73Chrysler105

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

It also could be signs of delamination look at the other exhaust hole as well it looks like delamination is happening around it where it is all lighter then the rest of the transom.
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Is it sanded from the outside?
The reason I ask is that fiberglass looks translucent when any color coats on it are removed...
If that is not the case, then it could be a huge air bubble that never got popped at the factory, in which case you might want to grind out and redo that area...

Thank you all for looking at this. It is a very defined color change from the rest of the transom area. Screws have been put though transom in 3 areas. 2 for speedometer and 1 for center drain hole. All screws went completely through the hull, and I bet, contributed to the rotting. The exhaust holes were covered with 1/4" of gray "hard as nails" cement of some sort. Then a 3/4" piece of ply, followed with glass overlay. I will take a closer look at the outside of hull behind the "lighter area" of concern. If there is no damage, then would I be correct in thinking that this is a "bubble" and grind it out??

Thanks all....John
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Yes, if it is a bubble you can just start grinding in the center of it and work your way outwards until you reach solid glass, then just grind a little further out to open up the surrounding glass to provide a 'tooth' for the new lamination...rebuild the are with a couple or three layers of 1708...you'll be good to go...
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Sorry to of taken so long to reply. Been busy with work.. Well, the back side of the light color was a dent from the outside. I ground out the light colored glass and a hole appeared! The hole ended up being about 4" in size, both in width and length. I put plastic wrap on the outside and duck taped it in place. Cut 3 pcs. of biax cloth and glassed into place. My first try at fiberglass!! I thought it would be a good test of my ability before I tackle the stringers. I applied the smaller pc. of glass first, then the next larger and then the largest. The largest pc. covers an area of about 20" in length and 12" in width. I am using poly resin. I was very happy with the outcome. I will post pics soon.
High of 50 degrees today....so it might be a while before I get to glass again.
 

centurycts

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Re: 1985 century cts rebuild

Sorry to of taken so long to reply. Been busy with work.. Well, the back side of the light color was a dent from the outside. I ground out the light colored glass and a hole appeared! The hole ended up being about 4" in size, both in width and length. I put plastic wrap on the outside and duck taped it in place. Cut 3 pcs. of biax cloth and glassed into place. My first try at fiberglass!! I thought it would be a good test of my ability before I tackle the stringers. I applied the smaller pc. of glass first, then the next larger and then the largest. The largest pc. covers an area of about 20" in length and 12" in width. I am using poly resin. I was very happy with the outcome. I will post pics soon.
High of 50 degrees today....so it might be a while before I get to glass again.

I made a mistake about the type of fiberglass I used. It was csm. Should I apply another pc. of 1708 over the top of the 3 layers of csm??
 
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