1985 v150 Nautiglass Sportsman restoration

[xsesiv]

Re: 05-10-2012 - re-tab in stringers and transom

Re: 05-10-2012 - re-tab in stringers and transom

True but carpet gets wet and holds moisture. I think it would just be a better substrate. Heck if you're gunna glue the carpet down, you really only need to lay a couple layers of CSM and wax the last layer for waterproofing then scuff sand just before applying the glue for the carpet No Paint of Gelcoat or anything is required.

Thanks for the comments woodonglass. Greatly appreciated! I plan to put a couple of layers of 450GSM CSM on the top of the deck. I was going to wax it but the guy at the fiberglass place suggested I flowcoat it before putting the carpet down? I hadn't decided on whether I would be gluing it down now I sorta figured I would though.....

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Well, I guess that's one way of doing it. Did she come with the block braces? It appears you are using an over abundance of PB on your fillets. Not saying you can't just that it's a waste of resin and money. It's sometimes easier to do glassing on smaller part outside of the boat and then install them after they've dried. Did you core sample the stringers and transom wood? Are you sure they are all solid and not wet?

 

[xsesiv]

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Well, I guess that's one way of doing it. Did she come with the block braces? It appears you are using an over abundance of PB on your fillets. Not saying you can't just that it's a waste of resin and money. It's sometimes easier to do glassing on smaller part outside of the boat and then install them after they've dried. Did you core sample the stringers and transom wood? Are you sure they are all solid and not wet?

Thanks again for the reply. I'm open too any suggestions and appreciate any advice. In answer to your questions

Yes it came with just block braces, less of them and most of them had fallen out. Are they OK? I am not 100% sure if it came this way. There have been lots of dodgy unglassed wood/masinote etc pulled out of it.

I figured i was using too much PB and will be using less in the future. I'm not concerned about the cost. Will it make things weaker at all? I've got a fair bit at the front as there was quite a large gap and it's a quite acute angle and I didn't think I'd be able to glass it well.

I checked the stringers very well and what I have left is all solid and dry. I did the same with the transom but not extensively. I really didn't want to go putting too many holes in it. The parts I did check (down low on both sites and mid way up both sides were hard and solid. I am going to keep an eye on it as from what I have read etc there is a fair chance it could be damaged given the rest of the rot found. I had a friend of mine (marine engineer) check it all out and went on his advice. He's no boat builder mind you.

I wish I glassed the block braces outside of the boat and added, it's been a bit of a night mare doing the underside of them in the boat.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

The block bracing is Not typical and prolly not needed. If you did not drill core sample the stringers and transom then there is no way to know for sure that they are solid. Tapping on them is NOT a valid method. ONly by drilling into them and checking the drill shavings can you know for sure. You can fill the holes with PB and they will be fine.

 

[xsesiv]

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

The block bracing is Not typical and prolly not needed. If you did not drill core sample the stringers and transom then there is no way to know for sure that they are solid. Tapping on them is NOT a valid method. ONly by drilling into them and checking the drill shavings can you know for sure. You can fill the holes with PB and they will be fine.

Well I guess the braces will just add some extra strength and support for the seams in the deck. Speaking of the deck the old one did't go all the way to the sides of the hull but finished about 10cm from them. It was more joined to the bottom of the hull. Is this OK. I am worried about about the contact of the plywood with the hull I guess. It had 9mm ply in it before. I'd like to put 12mm in it.

I drilled each of the remaining stringers in a few places and they were dry. I drilled 4 holes in the transom with a hole saw. Two down low and 2 about midway up and the were dry as well. I also check the "knees" I think they are called and the wood behind them was dry and solid. So I am pretty confident it's all OK. But i am not a shipwright so I hope I have done enough in this regard. I will be changing the motor and other attachments on the back in a couple years if I still have her and will give it a good check-over and may even replace it to tidy it up.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Thats good news about it all being dry!!! I would highly recommend the 12mm plywood. You should try and get it to withing 9mm of the sides of the hull and then fill the gap with PB. You will then tab the deck to the sides of the hull. Check the first link in my signature. It has drawings and details on how to do everything you are doing.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

Re: 06-10-2012 - hull glassed, peanut butter in keel and add supports

First, by "bang up" I meant really good job. Sure won't hurt by using a thicker plywood. It does seem you are adding some extra weight and your performance might suffer a bit. However the added support your doing is still a good thing from a safety standpoint. When resin cures it shrinks which will draw the deck edges into the hull sides if it is tight. Not a big deal but leaving the deck 10cm from the sides is not a bad idea. With all the support your deck will have you'll be fine. If your not going to glue the carpet down I would flow coat the deck. If you are gluing the carpet down you can do it either way as woodonglass as said.

 

[xsesiv]

Questions about putting the deck back in

Questions about putting the deck back in

Thanks again for the feedback and advice guys. I really appreciate it. I am not to concerned with extra weight as it's primarily a fishing boat. It's got an 85HP suzuki on it atm and it gets along very well. To add to that, I sometimes fish with mates over 100KG and some times I go alone so I don't reckon I'm going to notice the difference to much :>

Now I am still thinking about this hull design and how to do it best. I have attached a drawing of how its shaped etc. I'm still just concerned about a coupe of things. Currently the height of the stringers is a bit lower than the part of the hull that the deck will connect with. There was a bit of a curve in the plywood floor previously not that it was that obvious.

So with that said I've knocked up a rough picture...



Previously it had 9mm ply running to about halfway between what I have labelled as the reverse rib (this reverse rib looks like a rib that goes the other way made out of CSM and resin) and the hull lip. This is probably about 10-12cm from the hull sides I guess. and then it had random bits of masonite and thin wood with a fiberglass skin over the top of it all.

So now for the questions..... How am I best to put it back in? How close to the sides of the hull ? Will the 12mm ply bend ok as it will have to when i've screwed it down to the cleats/stringers height given those reverse ribs are about 15 MM higher than them? I am planning to glass the underside of the deck before putting it in, will that affect it bending when I screw it down?

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

Not sure I understand the drawing, at least the different heights. It looks like the deck will have a dip in the center? If so I don't like that. most decks have a crown in the center so water won't stay there and will run to the sides and back to the stern. IMHO you should have a slight rise at the center and should adjust your stringer heights to do that. With a fiberglass skin on the deck it will still bend enough when you screw it down though a bit harder. I would keep it a few mm off the side of the hull, like maybe 6mm or 8mm ish.

 

[xsesiv]

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

Yes the deck had a dip in the center. If I decide to adjust the height of the stringers then how would I go about doing that? Can it just be built up with glass or do I need to replace them completely.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

I would recommend adding additional wood to the tops of the stringers to bring them up level and using a couple of layers of CSM to tab em in.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

Re: Questions about putting the deck back in

I agree, just add a little to the top. I did that this spring with some high density poly I had laying around and 5200. The deck attachment screws hold it place. But a strip of wood with some CSM will do the job very nicely to.

 

[xsesiv]

13-10-2012 - Adding height to stringers

13-10-2012 - Adding height to stringers

I spent a few hours today adding some strips of wood to the tops of the stringers to allow me to have the deck nice and flat. I measured from the transom up to the bow on each stringer about every 20cms than cut the sizes out of the wood. I then used PB to join them to the stringers.

 

[xsesiv]

Question on attatching the deck

Question on attatching the deck

I need some further advice guys, when it comes to screwing on the deck, should I add cleats (bits of wood to the sides of the stringers) or should I just screw into the tops of the stringers directly?

What are the pro's and con's here?

Cheers,

-X-

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Question on attatching the deck

Re: Question on attatching the deck

As long as you predrill and coat the holes and screws with resin then you can screw directly into them. Use toothpicks to poke the resin down in the holes really well and then coat the screw with resin and drive it home.

 

[xsesiv]

15-10-2012 - Glassing Stringer extensions

15-10-2012 - Glassing Stringer extensions

Thanks for the advice again. I'm still not sure as to what I am going to screw the deck to yet. I am leaning towards your suggestion wood as it will be less work for me :>

So today I spent about 4 hours on the boat. First up I glassed in the stringer extensions. I used double bias 600GSM tape for the outside ones and 2 layers of 400GSM CSM. I only used the CSM to see what it was like to be honest. It went around the 90 degree corners better than the double bias but it sure used up more resin and was a lot messier. As will last time I stapled the glass to the stringers with marine grade staples. I find this makes the wetting out easy and air bubbles so much easier to get out. it was so hot today I had to stop for a while over lunch time. I didn't want the sweat I was catching to get on the glass work!

 

[xsesiv]

15-10-2012 - Cutting out rear deck piece

15-10-2012 - Cutting out rear deck piece

So.... in the afternoon I added in the last support (that I pre-glassed) in for the fuel tank bay. It was screwed in with stainless steel decking screws and glued in with PB as well. I then finally pulled out a couple of the plywood sheets I bought from Bunnings from the shed and started to measure up what I needed to cut out. I worked out I will need to make the deck from 3 pieces. I measured every thing about 10 times, marked out the cuts to be made on the plywood and re-measured them 10 times. I have that thing my dad taught me when I was young about always measure twice and cut once in my head.

Given my deck does not meet the hull on the sides as it sits on the just in from that on the bottom part of the hull I cut the edges of the deck at a 45 degree angle as I think that will be better for the PB'ing and creating no hard pressure spots on the hull. I used my jigsaw to make the cuts. It worked very well. I put the first peice that goes near the transom in the boat and it fitted in great. Looks like the hour I spent measuring may have paid off. I pulled it back out and but out the fuel tank bay, chucked it back in and all looks good.

 

[xsesiv]

15-10-2012 - Glassing middle deck underside

15-10-2012 - Glassing middle deck underside

Next I measured up the middle deck piece size requirements cut it out from the second sheet of plywood and put it into the boat to see how it fit. It fit perfectly. It was so good to see part of a floor in her again. Only one more piece to cut out which I plan to do tommorrow. I spent the last pay of the day before dinner glassing the underside of the middle deck piece with 1 layer of 450GSM CSM. Dam that stuff chews up some resin. The process I used was to make up some slow kick resin, wet the wood out with it, let it become tacky and then lay the CSM out on it and wet it out with some standard kick resin. It was a bit late in the afternoon and had cooled off a bit so it took a while to dry. I probably could of made it up with a bit more hardener.

I'm hoping to get some time on her tomorrow to cut the last piece of the deck out and glass the underside of the last two pieces but I have bought another boat, a 5.02 MTR Savage Pacific that I need to clean up, fix up some wiring etc and sell to pay for my repairs on my Nautiglass.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 15-10-2012 - Glassing middle deck underside

Re: 15-10-2012 - Glassing middle deck underside

when wrapping edges with CSM if you "Tug" on the material at the location of the fold, it will Loosen the weave just a bit a make it much easier to wrap over the top. You can also use tape or Stick Pins to hold it in place instead of the staples. Remember you only need enuf resin to wet it out and make it go clear. Don't use to much and don't over roll it.

 

[xsesiv]

16-10-2012 - Cutting out bow deck and glassing

16-10-2012 - Cutting out bow deck and glassing

Thanks wood. As always your feedback and advice is appreciated. Today I spent a couple hours on the boat. I cut out the last piece of deck. The front part. It's a bit of a tricky area. I measured it every 10cm's to make sure I got the shape right. I cut it out and test fitted it with the rest of the pieces and it was perfect. I then glassed the back and front deck undersides with 450 GSM CSM.