1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Nice work on all the tear out.

Thanks ezmobee...I still have a long ways to go but things should speed up pretty soon. I bought a shed from the neighbor so I can empty out the garage and get the boat inside where I have some light. Then I can work on it in the evenings and not just on the weekends.

Of course I have another issue now. The guy I mentioned before with the Checkmate emailed me again. He is basically offering me the boat for next to nothing just to get rid of it. I will most likely pick it up next week. Then I can clean it out and decide if I should do that one first or finish the B-liner. ....decisions decisions lol

Anyway, I hope everyone has a happy Turkey Day!

Max

 

[jmmacky]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I'm currently doing a Bayliner rebuild about the same age as yours (although its stalled currently unfortunately due to house moving) and mine had 3/4" batons of wood in the forward part of the strakes as well. My stringers originally ran over the top of these so I think they just provided a flat surface for the stringers to be bedded on to make production easier. Mine were wet so I removed them. On the re-build I actually shaped the bottom of the stringers so that they followed the contours of the hull and therefore getting rid of the need to replace the batons. I hope it will be stronger this way as there is less joints as the stringers are glued directly to the hull then fibreglassed in place. If Oops or any of the other big names disagree with me then go with their advice!

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I'm currently doing a Bayliner rebuild about the same age as yours (although its stalled currently unfortunately due to house moving) and mine had 3/4" batons of wood in the forward part of the strakes as well. My stringers originally ran over the top of these so I think they just provided a flat surface for the stringers to be bedded on to make production easier. Mine were wet so I removed them. On the re-build I actually shaped the bottom of the stringers so that they followed the contours of the hull and therefore getting rid of the need to replace the batons. I hope it will be stronger this way as there is less joints as the stringers are glued directly to the hull then fibreglassed in place. If Oops or any of the other big names disagree with me then go with their advice!

Hi Jmmacky,

Sounds like we both have about the same issue with the strakes. I was thinking about cutting some wood or even using some of that plastic like trim you can get at the home improvement store to fill the strakes. This way I can fill the void and glass straight over top to make it a nice smooth surface on the inside for the stringers to go over. Basically the cross section of the strakes will be a triangle instead of square like they were. I'll have to do some measuring to see if the angle changes much from stern up to the bow. If not I will try to find some trim that is close and fits the channel well and then bed it in. If not I might have to cut some wood myself to fit better all the way up. I'll keep you posted in case it helps you out when you get back on your project. Good luck on the move! I know it is a pain as I just did it myself a year ago.

Max

 

[mxcobra]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I have about the same setup
I pl 2x4 in the strakes turned out to be just the right hight for the deck

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I have about the same setup
I pl 2x4 in the strakes turned out to be just the right hight for the deck

Looks nice Mxcobra!

I will probably use 2x4 for the stringers as well instead of the 3/4" stuff they had originally. Now that I have ground away all the excess chop I have plenty of space for them. I'll have to still fill in the strakes separately though as my stringers are much closer together than yours and the strakes are farther apart. I'll figure it out ...sooner or later lol

Max

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Hi All,

Just a quick update. I finally got the boat out of the back yard and into the garage where I can get some work done on it. I built a small cart to put it on so it would fit and still be sturdy enough to work in and not have to worry about the hull flexing all over the place. I am almost ready to start glassing in the transom. Just a bit more grinding and cleaning up and I can start putting something back in instead of constantly taking stuff out. Even after the transom is in I have a lot more tearing out to do but I want to so it a bit at a time so i dont have problems with it getting too flimsy to work on. I also got a new tool box from my wife so i had to show off.

Happy New Year

Max

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Well I have had a chance to work on the boat some more. I got the transom about 3/4 of the way finished. I cut three peices of 3/4" inch birch plywood, covered them with CSM and resin and glued them in with PB. I took two layers of 50" 1708 and overlapped them across the center section of the transom. Then I tabbed the transom to the hull with another layer of 1708 all the way accross the bottom. I have one more peice of 3/4" ply to glue on to the center section and then glass over that with another layer of 1708. Then I will tab that section in at the bottom with one last layer of 1708. I still have a ton of work to do before I can even think about painting this thing much less floating it but it sure is nice to see a little progress.

I do have a question that I could use your opinions on. I have to glue on my second layer of plywood on the center section but the glass isn't even all the way across. You can see in the picture that there is about 6 inches on either side that has one layer of glass and the middle has two layers where they overlap. Do you think I can just use a single layer of CSM and resin to glue on the next layer or do you think I should lay in two sections of 1708 to make the whole thing the same thickness? I am hoping to get the whole transom finished by tomorrow night. Then it is on to the stringers and strakes.

Max

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Hey Guys,

I'm getting ready to head out to the garage and try to finish up the transom on my day off. I had another question though looking forward to the stringer replacement which is up next. I think the first 8 ft or so of the main stringers is pretty uniform all the way up. Beyond that they start to change the angle where it meets the hull and they start to turn inborad toward sthe center of the boat. My question is...do you have to splice sections together before installing them or can I use one 8ft section, glass it in and then do the next section and glass them together? I think I can still make a good scarf joint between the two sections in the boat as opposed to making one huge chuck of wood and trying to maneuver it into place.

Any thoughts?

Max

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Hey All,

Well I almost have the transom completed. I will try to post some more pictures next week when I get home from my road trip for work. I bought some more materials for the main stringers and the strakes so I should start making some significant progress pretty soon. I had a question though. If I use the PL premium glue to bed the stringers and the strakes, how many tubes do you think I will need? I can see that at $8 a tube it is going to add up. How much of this stuff have you guys used on your projects? I'm hoping to get an idea from you all so I know how much to get.

Thanks
Max

 

[mxcobra]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I have used 15 tubes and counting

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Wow, Where are you buying your PL??? Oklahoma Lowe's is $3.49 a tube.

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Wow 15 tubes and not done? are you rebuilding a boat or trying to piece together the lost city of atlantis? lol I looked at Homedepot here and it was $7 something per tube unless I was looking at the wrong price tag. That was why I asked as it seemed pretty high to me to. I think that was for the smaller 10 oz tubes as well. They did have some of the 28 oz tubes but I think they were more. I'll have to go back and check again as I may have remembered it wrong. I can handle 15 tubes at $4. How much work are you doing with your 15 tubes? If that is for just two short stringers I can see this getting spendy quick. Also were those the 10oz or 28oz tubes?

Thanks
Max

 

[mxcobra]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I used the pl for everything glued the transom on with it
made engine mounts with it
shoot i used a whole tube to just to glue my cabin drain doun....
filllled the edges with it made bulk heads with it, I used wood to.
used it as pb
going to glue deck doun with it after its warm enough to glass stringers.
if all your doing is to stringers then a tube each...
yeah maibee i did over do it with the pl:facepalm:
the real glass stuff is just hard to get in Colorado!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Do NOT use PL to glue the Wood transom to the Outer skin of the Boat. Use Thickened Resin (Cabosil and Chopped Milled Fibers) (Peanut Butter) You can use PL to Bed the Stringers and Bulkheads in and to glue the deck to the top of the stringers but thats about it. Remember it takes 48 to 72 hours for a thick bead of PL to fully cure and you cannot glass over it until it has cured.

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

I used the pl for everything glued the transom on with it
made engine mounts with it
shoot i used a whole tube to just to glue my cabin drain doun....
filllled the edges with it made bulk heads with it, I used wood to.
used it as pb
going to glue deck doun with it after its warm enough to glass stringers.
if all your doing is to stringers then a tube each...
yeah maibee i did over do it with the pl:facepalm:
the real glass stuff is just hard to get in Colorado!

Wow that is quite a bit of PL! I think I'll just stick with bedding the stringers and the strakes. I'll pick up about 4 tubes and see how far that gets me. I should be able to get a good amount done this weekend....I hope. Would be really nice to see some more visual progress.

Max

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Hi All,

I haven't been updating this thread but I have actually been getting a bunch done on the boat. Here is a recent picture with the new paint on it. I had to completely strip the inside down to the shell and build it back up with new wood all coated with resin. New floors are in, and the ski locker is cut out and door made. I will try to get some more pics of the progress along the way uploaded if anyone is interested.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Looks nice!!! What paint did you use?

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Thanks Wood! Have a look at the rest of the pics and see if you still think it is ok lol

I used a Nason urethane single stage. It took a bit to get it right and the top cap still needs to be wet sanded and buffed but at 50mph who will ever know!

Here are some more pics:

Here is the floor going in. I used 1/2 inch PT ply coated on both sides with csm and resin. Yes I cheated and used the pool noodles but I also had 2 to 3 layers of 1708 on the hull under them so I felt comfortable it would be ok without the added structural support of the pour in foam.

Here is the ski locker that I made in the floor. It is about 6 ft long so should be long enough.

Here is the interior all done for the most part. I sprayed it with black tractor paint but not to worry it will be mostly covered with carpet. The only part you will be able to see is the bilge once the interior panels are in.

This is pretty much what it looks like today with the rub rail on (ok partially, I still have to put the insert in it).

So that is the good, now with the bad. I got the top cap on it and was putting the rub rail on and figured out I couldn't quite get the splash well down far enough. Sure I could puck it up with sealant and make it work but I wasn't gong to be happy with it. So the only option was to cut in to the new paint and hack out a section so it will sit down flush where she belongs. Now I can lay another peice of wood across the hole and glass it all in. This will make the splash welll more shallow overall but since I am using a jack plate the motor mounting shouldn't be an issue. It turns out that the original well was hitting the knee braces that I added to the transom for strength. Oh well...two steps forward and 10 steps back lol.

Max

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Modifications, as long as they are structurally sound, are sometimes necessary. I still think it's looking GREAT!!!!

 

[Maxtork]

Re: 1986 Bayliner Capri rebuild

Well I got to work on the boat a bit today. I started by filling the big hole I cut in the splash well. It isn't as deep as it was before. In fact, it is almost flush with the top of the transom. I still have to sand and fair and repaint the area but it is coming along. While the PL and PB was curing I started cutting out peices for the driver seat. I will hopefully get to spend some more time on it tomorrow and Monday as I have Vets day off. More to follow...

Max