1986 Century 6 Meter Restoration

stanleydan

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Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Materials in my area are somewhat limited. Pine was the only option in a 3/4" is this a big deal if I take the time to coat it well and glass it 100% with multiply layers?
 

archbuilder

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Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

The fir just soaks up the resin a little better, the pine will work. Just make sure it is clean and dry. You might also roughen up the pine with some 60 grit....probably overkill, but it would give it a little more tooth.
 

oops!

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Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Went across the border today to Detroit to pick up my supplies. In Canada my choices are limited. The guy who runs the shop said his recomendation would be to go straight to the 1708 and not bother with the CSM. My origional plan was to use 2 layers of each. Should I stay with the 4 layers ?

hi.....arch has you going in the right direction.

lets see if i can clear up some stuff.....
first....you need to read some......frisco boater has great stuff on his link.....
at the bottom of my sig......there is a link.....it is the most comprehensive fiberglassing instruction and detailes on the site. the first sixteen pages will do for now.

they guy at the store was wrong.....this is not a matter of opinion....but fact....(damm industrial plastics and paints.....the kids there just dont know)
chopped strand matt must allways be layed first next to a sub straight...(though its true that the 1708 bi axe has csm on one side).....its strand is stitiched and there for will want to follow the heaver weave of the thicker materal.... and not stay tight against the sub straight.

the way to MAKE THE FIRST ALL IMPORTANT BOND TO PLYWOOD...is to use unwaxed poly resin ...mekp at 1.5%....wet out the wood thoroughly....a dry plywood will want to make the resin skip over it....slop that stuff on.....and brush or roll it in several different directions. wait till the resin STARTS to get tacky.....then lay the csm over it and glass as per normal.......you dont want to go over kill with too much resin here...just use enough to wet out the matt....then use your resin roller to get rid of any air bubbles. add more resin if needed. the proper resin mixture you are looking for is 50-50

one layer of csm and 1708 is good enough, 2 layers of each is great, three is way overkill......1708 is super strong. in fact......3 layers of 1708 is as thick and as strong as your hull

I have a friend that has offered me 1" mahogany that would work for my 2 main stringers. Should I take him up on this and use them as my main stringers? The price is right (free) . My 2 main stringers measure 5.5" by 12 ft. I was going to keep them 1" in width.

the maghoney will be too oiley.
i use standard exterior grade plywood. the plywood has waterproof glue....and enough layers to keep me happy.
one of the issues that you will run into is wrapping the fiberglass overtop of the stringer......you will get air as the csm does not like to take sharp corners.....and the 1708 is way worse.
at best....you will be able to run the 1708 up the sides....but not over top. capping the stringers with csm is common.

as far as bedding the stringers...you can use peanut butter....(a resin cabosil mixture.....the recipe is in the link in my sig) or the pl glue.....understand....if you use the pl glue....it must reach a full cure before you glass over it. for this reason...i like the pb mix.

it is also important that you not lay the stringer directly on the hull.... it needs to be shimmed above the hull a wee bit...popsicle sticks on the flat work great......for this reason...you do not have to "v" the bottom of your stringers.

oh.....by the way.......you asked about the uneven surface of the transom hull......
after grinding.....there will be un even patches in the hull thickness....read the instructions in my sig for the transom installation...however......over the skin.....using a trowel.....screed pb over the hull.....this will fill any voids....then over the wet pb....you can start to do the transom lamination ....i suggest a fiberglass bond rather than a pl glue bond....the fiberglass bond will have more contact points and will in fact make the transom a part of the hull.

side note on grinding...... most builders do not know how much to grind.........what you are doing here is cleaning the fiberglass and removing the top layer of resin....this will expose the fiberglass in the hull matrix......i call it rough and scuff....you are just basically scuffing the fiberglass to ensure a good bond between the new and old layers.

hope that clears up a few things..... carry on.

cheers
oops
 

stanleydan

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Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Thanks OOPs

One question, when you say the proper resin mixture should be 50-50 what are you refering to ? I am familiar with the 1.5% MEK but not the 50 - 50 reference.

I am going to keep searching and find a good marine grade fur etc, I don't want to look back and regret taking any short cuts.
 

stanleydan

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Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Re: Stringer Question, Board Vs Plywood

Picked up some 3/4 Douglas Fur , spent the day waiting for the rain to stop. Finally was able to get out and get some work done. I made a template for the transome and rough cut the stringers.

My transome measured 2" and my bare hull was 3/8" . Will I be o.k with 2 sheets of 3/4" , This would put be about 1 7/8 before I glass and bond the transome in. My only other option is to use 5/8 .

Does anyone know the tolerence on a merc 350 with an Alpha 1 OD ?
 

stanleydan

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Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

Is it common practice to wrap stringers before install ? My fear is because I am not an expert I may do more harm than good if I can't get the glass to wrap over, prior to bonding them in place. I could do the sides no problem.

My plan was to give them a coat of poly and perhaps a layer of CSM on the sides, I figured the top and bottom would be covered with PB during bonding.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, the stringers took a while to build I would hate to screw them up.

Thanks
 

archbuilder

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Re: Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

Re: Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

I haven't seen it done that way, I think you will do fine when you wrap them once they are installed. Just take your time and work on small areas. Also, a lot of people radius the top edges of the stringer with a router to make it easier to bend the glass over them.
 

stanleydan

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Re: Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

Re: Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

Thanks ! looking forward to getting past the grinding stage. Just started wearing tyvex suites. Had I done this from the beginning I would have lost 100lbs by now.
 

liquid

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Jul 12, 2011
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Re: Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

Re: Wraping stringers with CSM before install ??? Shoulds I ,

I am following your progress with great interest... nice work and please keep posting!
 

stanleydan

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Danm ! THis new PL Adhesive is thick!

Danm ! THis new PL Adhesive is thick!

After some debate I decided to try using 2 pieces of 3/4" to build up my transom, after some research I found the Max target size is 2.125" .

I am guessing my old wood was 2 layers of 1/2" or 5/8" then glassed to 2" .


Here is the problem I ran into! I did not realize the PL adhesive was so thick, by the time I got it spread out and clamped I problay added 1/16" to the thickness. When I laid the new transom up to the existing fiberglass I only had less than 1/8" to hit my target thickness.

I decided to scrap the 2 layers of 3/4" and go with 5/8" . My thoughts are that its better to be under and build it up with glass than to overshoot it and bee to thin!

Well I guess its all about trial and error! I used a new PL adhesive that claims to be 4X stronger than the previous. It was thick and hard to work with! I was not expecting that! I had plastic wood clamps and broke them trying to clamp the 2 pieces. I had to scramble to find threaded rod / screws before it set up! I am going to cut up my transom mistake and use it for the bulk head supports.

When I bond the new 5/8" wood for the transom I am going to use steel clamps!

I feel good that I removed the transom, I wasn't going to but now I am glad I did. The first 4 inches around the keyhole were soft!
 

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stanleydan

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Fiberglass & Colder Weather ??? Need Help!

Fiberglass & Colder Weather ??? Need Help!

Winter is closing in and I am trying to beat the clock with the amount of fiberglass I have to do. Can anyone tell me how temperature affects fiberglass and what I can do to work with It. I know it has to be somewhat warm but thats about all I know!

Is there a chart / article / tips etc???

I live in souther ontario, right now it is 70's during the day and it drops to 50-60 at night. I have 2 weeks left before it will just be too cold. The boat will not fit in my garage so I am considering backing it in and building a wood extension to cover the front. This would allow me to add heat as required.
 

archbuilder

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Re: Fiberglass & Colder Weather ??? Need Help!

Re: Fiberglass & Colder Weather ??? Need Help!

Polys cure rate slows down with the temp.....it is hard to work with once it gets too far below 60.......There are a lot of guys who have built tents and worked there way through the winter with heaters....forced air type work great for heating up the tent. Heat lamps also work well for getting the glass to fire off, the halogen home depot type are great. Also keeping your resin and MEPK inside where they stay warm is a big help. One note you have to be careful, fresh air is essential, poly and acetone are very flammable, as well as the danger from carbon monoxide poisoning.
 

stanleydan

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1986 Century 6 Meter Restoration

Made some great progress today, I cut the transom and got it bonded in place. Used a combination of clamps / threaded rod to pull it tight.

My advice after the fact is have some good quality clamps and a good plan to hold it in place. I had cheap plastic clamps I figured would do the job but snapped them when I bonded the two transom pieces together. Luckly I was able to borrow 6 steel wood clamps to finish the job. The bonding epoxy I am using is thick so it takes a lot of force to get it sealed. With $50 bucks work of plywood at stake you only get one chance once you lay down your adhesive.

Taking the boad off the trailer was new to me. I pulled it off the trailer a few feet and then lowered the front of the trailer. I then blocked it up.

I might have cheated when I used the front end loader to lift the front of the boat! In the end it seemed to work out fine. Now I need a ladder to get into the boat!

Tomorrow my goal is to get the stringers in place and start to glass!
 

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stanleydan

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Re: 1986 Century 6 Meter Restoration

Made soem good progress today, got the stringers bonded in place. Used the spoon dipped in Acetone to give my Epoxy a nice smooth Radii. Thanks for the tip fellow forum members !

How much will CSM hide ? I have some area's on my transom that are rough. I was wondering if I should grind them or put down the first layer of CSM first. The epoxy dried and it looks like chunky peanut butter. I wish I would have used the acetone trick sooner !
 

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stanleydan

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Re: 1986 Century 6 Meter Restoration

I am going to start glassing in the stringers and the transom,

On the stringers I was going to use 2 layers of CSM and 2 layers of 1708 (On the sides) Then cap them off with 2 layers of CSM.

Is this a good plan ?

On my transom I was going to go 2 layers of each as well,


What is the thickness of 1 layer of CSM and 1 layer of 1708?
 

archbuilder

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Re: 1986 Century 6 Meter Restoration

I think that would be plenty, I have 4 layers of CMS on both my stringers and transom (2 oz) Not sure on the thickness, what weight is the CMS?
 

stanleydan

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Re: 1986 Century 6 Meter Restoration

What is the best way to handle the key hole on the transom, mine is already cut in. Do I glass right over it and cut the layers when I am done ?
 
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