1986 Starcraft Mariner 210...I think?

[laurentide]

I wouldn't bother...the damage is done once the rot bacteria is present in wet wood. You'd be putting a band aid on a bullet wound.

I mean this as respectfully as possible, but you asked for our collective opinion on your transom issue. We've all been there...seriously, just about every Starcraft owner in this subforum has had to do it. And we're telling you that you need to do it to safely operate your boat. I hope I don't sound like a jerk here, 'cause that's not my intention, but that's the answer to your question.

It's a nice boat and is definitely worth it. Good luck with it. Cheers.

 

[Lago86]

Believe me when I say...I really do appreciate all the help here. Now I know what needs to be done, and it will get done. Who will do the work is the is the question. I have neither the tools nor the talent. I've called the local marinas and they won't do it. I'll try my carpenter, at least if I gut it, he could probably make the flooring/transom. Do I need to remove the center console completely or can I detach from the floor and work around it?

 

[g0nef1sshn]

You will probably save a lot of money doing it yourself. Tool cost included. These guys can run you through step by step and with pictures for the most part. Everything I have done so far to mine I have never done before. I did have some of the tools already from hand me downs, and some purchased.

Im pretty sure the center console will have to come out. Take a lot of picture of all connectors and label the ends of plugs and wires as you remove them. this will help in reconnecting. Also, take measurements of where the console is. Wether you do it or someone else. You will know if its back in the right spot for all the cables and connections.

If you are not in the rush, its a fun learning curve doing it on your own. Thats how I feel anyhow. Also, alot of the tools can be found used for cheap on craigslist and ebay.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

The red circle is around the line that makes it look like a 3 piece transom. If ive learned anything this is more likely ann original transom from factory? unless someone redid just like the factory did. Either way, the spots GA pointed sure looks like water intrusion.

By the way, it is a nice looking boat and when redone it will be years of fun on the water!

 

[laurentide]

I'll just echo what GF said: I knew nothing about this when I started. This forum and the internet in general is a tremendous source of information and guidance. You can do it! No joke, if I can do it, so can you. The internet thing applies to everything from automotive to home repairs...and tin boats!

 

[GA_Boater]

Don't be afraid to tackle it yourself, Lago. Like Home Depot says - You can do it, we can help!

You don't need a huge power tool investment - Drill, circular saw and a jig saw is all I used. I picked up a nice combo rechargeable drill/circular on sale at HD, pawn shops are a good place to look.

I never replaced the deck in a tin boat before. I read a lot of the threads, looked at all the pics and thought what can go wrong. And nothing did.

 

[Lago86]

The red circle is around the line that makes it look like a 3 piece transom. If ive learned anything this is more likely ann original transom from factory? unless someone redid just like the factory did. Either way, the spots GA pointed sure looks like water intrusion.

By the way, it is a nice looking boat and when redone it will be years of fun on the water!

yes...I'm pretty sure everything but the motor is original. The PO's dad was the original owner who used it mostly up at Lake Ontario. The son added a tripod to pull a tube or skier and a couple rod holders. Part of me wants to keep it true to the original, but I also want to make it more usable for family outings. Bench seating up front may take the place of the casting deck.

 

[rtek816]

Welcome aboard Lago! I have the same boat and gutted mine and replaced the floor and transom. It does look to be the original as it is in 3 peices. Pretty sure the poured in foam is soaked. Get that weight out of there and your boat will perform way better (200-300lbs less dead weight!). Your gas tank should be 17 gallons. Mine started to leak and I replaced it with a plastic one with same dimensions. The pedestal seats are add ons and not original. The gut and rebuild can be done but it is time consuming. Another required tool will be an air rivet gun for the pop rivets. And there are alot of them. I have a ton of pictures and yes you will remove the center console. I filled mine with 120 $1 swim noodles for floatation. Still my weekly fishing boat and now I started on another project boat. Going slowly as fishing time is here but I hope to splash my new to me boat before the end of the season. Good luck!

 

[rtek816]

Here are some more ideas of what you have ahead of you! Fun, fun, and more fun.....

 

[Lago86]

Holy Hannah that's a lot of foam. Can you hack it out or is there "stuff" stuck inside it like wiring/plumbing? I will definitely have questions for you when I start the rehab. Today I mounted my 9.9, hooked up the control cables, and started her up in a garbage can. I was also able to perform the jump on the lower unit test, and am glad to report that it was rock solid. No flex in the transom or movement in the gaps. I also started her up...after I dropped $100 on a new battery. I guess that really WAS fogging oil {rimshot} :lol:

 

[GA_Boater]

Cough, cough - Seasonal skeeter fogging begins. LOL

If you're going to run it for the season, keep a close eye on the gaps or cracking in the splashwell aluminum.

 

[Watermann]

Ah yeah the aroma of 2 cycle and fogging oil wafting through the neighborhood. It just don't get any better than that!

 

[rtek816]

Lago, the wiring, control cables and steering run through an aluminum channel riveted to the starboard stringer and floor from the hole under the console to the hole in the transom (and through the back below the floor into the bilge area). There is no foam in there. The only foamed in tube I had was the drain tube from the livewell. Even after replacing the transom and floor and rivets those areas in the splashwell will crack over time (the caulk). If it is the original transom (and I think it is) do some core samples in the lowest corners to see the condition. A 28 year old but will most likely have rot as the original wood wasn't sealed anyway. Once you get the foam out you will be amazed at how much less draft the boat has and how much better it will perform. If your comfortable the transom is solid enough, run it for the season and fix it through the winter. If you are getting water into the splashwell while it is sitting in the water (through the drain holes) your are butt heavy or overloaded. My opinion.

 

[Lago86]

Hello Gents... It's time to install a new floor in the Mariner. I am having another person do the job as I don't have the time or skills. My question is... What did you do differently from the factory setup that you would recommend? I may replace the original gas tank and was wondering if I should locate it in the floor or in the original location? It's kinda small as is so if possible I'd like to increase capacity. That worries me in regard to additional weight in the back as it sits kinda low already with the 115 & 9.9. I would also like to make a dual battery setup as I plan to add lighting and electric downriggers. I'm thinking of cooler seats instead of pedestal for increased storage. Floor covering... Nautolex or Tuff Coat or...

Any thoughts or ideas are welcome.

 

[Watermann]

Adding a larger fuel tank comes with the huge issue of finding one that will fit in the space. If possible the original tank could be moved fore to more of a mid-ship arrangement. The increased length of a new fuel tank could also go forward in the boat helping out the balance.

Adding extra angle AL cross supports is a must at the joints at least and do away with the original thin deck joining strips.

Of course flotation foam, adding the closed cell rigid foam board is the best option out there in my opinion.

Nautolex vinyl deck covering is one of if not the best choice for ease of installation, durability and cost.

 

[Candutch]

H2O covered most of it. Make sure the plywood is at least exterior grade douglas fir or you can go with marine grade. I went to 5/8th inch thick and most do just so the consoles and windshield still line up but since you have a cc you could go 3/4 easily.
Spar varnish for sealant, at least 3 coats per side. Some use epoxy it's your choice.
I moved my original fuel tank up under the bow deck and the boat still handles perfectly fine but I did add some weight to the stern with my rear deck mod, dual batteries and 8hp kicker.

 

[Lago86]

Thanks guys.