1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

[jbcurt00]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Welcome back. Ernie looks like he had NO Problems adjusting to his new home! Congrats!

So you say he's a service dog? Can he run a grinder? Help PL the stringers? All supervision probably, no actual work.....:facepalm:

PL may still be a tad soft at 48hrs, but check a couple times leading up to the 48 mark. You don't want it off gassing behind the PB & the glass layups. Then it's PB fillets, CSM, then 1708 & repeat: CSM, then 1708. If you are capping the stringers after, all 4 layers can be done wet on wet, even on the PB. It will go may be easier to let a layer tack over before laying up the next, but no need to wait for the layer to fully kick. But read through Don S's helpful tips thread & oop's index, they should both go over the wet on wet layups. I think it's even better when you do them wet on wet. Bonds as a unit instead of layers, or something like that, heat buildup as they cure is something to watch too.

BTW, what was up w/ logging in?

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

4 layers sounds good. Thanks for the heads up on the PL possibly not ready in 48. Thursday or Friday will be okay. I'm dedicating these next two weeks on getting as much done as I can. Ernie might not be able to grind or lay stringers but I've already got him getting me a beer The login issue was a new email verification that was sitting in my spam mail. Thanks for the PM and advise. Always appreciated!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Another good day. Started bedding in stringers and glassing seat boxes, ice chest and bottom of gas tank deck. Stopped by AeroMarine and bought 2 part foam, then to my local fiberglass company for more resin and gel coat and then finally to West Marine for a new fuel sending unit which I installed tonight.

Made my first batch of PB and filled in holes on rails and then patched the cut line which I did during demolition. It is coming along. Hope to have some updated pictures by the end of the week.

 

[Trooper82]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Sounds like you are making good progress. Can't wait to see the pics.

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

The stringers and bulkheads are in!!!! So it the battery box and ice chest. I didn't like the way the PL ran. I'm going to buzz down and run PB for the fillets instead. Just didn't turn out good.

Battery box before

Battery box after

At least everything is level which is why the boat is parked half way in my garage. I had more than one neighbor tell me that it wasn't going to fit. I would explain to them that I know, I'm just putting the rear wheels down and leveling with the front end.

The ice chest is going to be glassed in with two layers of 1708 all the way around. The bottom is already glassed but I want added protection since I know it's going to get wet. I'm running 1" PVC through the wall, with 5200 around to seal it. It will have a coupler on the inside with pipe running through the walls, elbow down and then another piece down in the bilge capped with a screw adapter so it won't drain until I open the valve up. I'm putting foam in between the two areas for insulation.

Tomorrow after I sand the remaining part of the deck rail, what ever PAINT the PO put down and anything else that needs sanding, I'll clean it up and run over it with a rag. Then I'll PB the fillets and then glass the stringers. I'm hoping to have the fuel deck down once this dries. I'm using red guard under the fuel deck for added protection.

Once this is all done, I'll cap the stringers on Monday and then hopefully be putting a deck on either Tuesday or Wednesday weather depending. We are supposed to get some rain next week.

So far I'm on track and question free. We'll see how that hold once I start glassing.

 

[rickryder]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Everything looks real good. I had a thought on your drain running down your keel.... Maybe some holes drilled in that pipe where it runs under your fuel tank sole so it can pick up any water if it was ever to get in? Are you going to put some drains in the fuel box itself into the bilge?

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Everything looks real good. I had a thought on your drain running down your keel.... Maybe some holes drilled in that pipe where it runs under your fuel tank sole so it can pick up any water if it was ever to get in? Are you going to put some drains in the fuel box itself into the bilge?

I am. What I was thinking and help me out here, is to drill a hole just over the top of the (picture the fuel deck being laid and a hole being drilled over the top) PVC pipe running down the keel. I would use a paddle drill bit and do it at an angle so any water collected in the fuel tank area would drain directly into the bilge. I'm also going to put the fuel tank as far forward as possible leaving a space that I'll have access to with an access panel. This way I can open it up and see if there is any water collecting there. This is the area that I drained over 15 gallons of water when I lifted the fuel deck up. What are your thoughts? Thanks for your help Rick!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Re: Where Do I Begin? - 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Okay, see remaining question free lasted all of about 1 hour! What are everyone's thoughts on glassing the fuel tank in completely, still having an access panel in as far aft as I can to verify good drainage or leave it accessible? I'm leaning toward glassing in but I've seen post where people don't like that incase of tank issues. I'm going to gel coat the tank area and put down several layers of CMS and 1708. Any thoughts would be great!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Another 8 hours of work. I was able to sand all the remaining area and PB the fillets on the stringers. Like, the PL, I'm not thrilled at how they turned out. I'm going to sand down a couple of high spots.

I'm hoping to put down 2 layers of 1708 on the stringers Monday, capping them Tuesday and then putting the deck down by the end of the week. I'm still not sure about the drainage hole on the fuel deck so any advise would be great.

Happy Easter to all my fellow iboaters!

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

I have my fuel tank drain in the rear of the box into the bilge... access panel is a personal choice.... I don't have one myself

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

I have my fuel tank drain in the rear of the box into the bilge... access panel is a personal choice.... I don't have one myself

Rick

Thanks. I'm hoping to lay it in tomorrow so we'll see how it all works out. Happy Easter!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Another 8 hours of work. I was able to sand all the remaining area and PB the fillets on the stringers. Like, the PL, I'm not thrilled at how they turned out. I'm going to sand down a couple of high spots. I'm hoping to put down 2 layers of 1708 on the stringers Monday, capping them Tuesday and then putting the deck down by the end of the week. I'm still not sure about the drainage hole on the fuel deck so any advise would be great. Happy Easter to all my fellow iboaters!

Don't forget, you can do wet on wet applications on the PB fillets too, you can avoid some sanding. After the PB starts to tack up wet out & apply CSM, & the 1708 too if time allows.

Be sure to reference WOG's glass layup schedule in his post's signature line above ^^^^ ~ Fillets-CSM-1708-CSM-1708 & then CSM to cap the top of the stringer.

I can't help much w/ the under deck tank drain, but here's my thoughts:

Check this site that has some info about under deck tank mounting.

As long as water can't go into the tank area from the bilge, and not drain out, a drain shouldn't be a bad thing. But why are you expecting it to get water in & around the tank that needs to be drained? If you put in an access cover hatch, get 1 that's water-tight. Depending on the tank & it's fittings & hoses, a cover to access the pump & sending units sounds like it'd be a good idea.

If the deck is glassed down, doesn't that kind of make the tank somewhat inaccessible even if you don't glass the tank in? I suspect that you, like most of us, never want to do much kind of this work again anytime soon, but NEVER again on the same boat

Have a great holiday, isn't put back great?

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

As long as water can't go into the tank area from the bilge, and not drain out, a drain shouldn't be a bad thing. But why are you expecting it to get water in & around the tank that needs to be drained? If you put in an access cover hatch, get 1 that's water-tight. Depending on the tank & it's fittings & hoses, a cover to access the pump & sending units sounds like it'd be a good idea.

If the deck is glassed down, doesn't that kind of make the tank somewhat inaccessible even if you don't glass the tank in? I suspect that you, like most of us, never want to do much kind of this work again anytime soon, but NEVER again on the same boat

Have a great holiday, isn't put back great?

I'm not sure if the filling hose, vent hose and fuel line will be enclosed. The PO had some make shift thing that the hoses were cut out of the rear deck exposing the tank, which is why there was duck tape. They had the tank higher in the hole than what I believe I've got it this time and by pushing the tank up by 6 inches I'll be able to have the hoses below the real deck line which means I should be able to put 5200 around them. I'm just paranoid that since there was so much water in there before and you are right I DON"T WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN ANYTIME SOON!!! that having a water tight access panel will give me piece of mind. I'll have time to decide one I get the fuel deck down, tank in place and hoses ran through where they need to go. JB, have a Happy Easter! Love the solo red cup!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

2 more long days but plenty of progress. Got the fuel anks area tabbed and the was able to lay the fuel deck. I PB the edges and the did real nicevfillets for rest of the lay up. I took a large metal spoon cut off most of the handle and then bent the edges in more. Was easier to work in tight spots.

Tomorrow supposed to rain but I might be able to work on the seat boxes so the day doesn't get waisted. Will post pics of progress on Thursday. It's coming along. At least I have some type of deck down now!

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

The fuel deck is in. I just have to finish glassing and gel coating it. Since I'm using 1708 as the glass do I need to sand it down before I put the gel coat on or just do it?

Here is a pic of the progress. The box is the ice chest that I used red guard on. I'm going to glass that last.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Is the sanding question about the texture/weave of the 1708 showing & you want to know if it needs to be smooth? And you're talking about shooting gelcoat, for now just under the deck, where it is only inside storage lockers & etc, not finished, always visible surfaces, correct.

Or are you asking if the poly resin coated 1708 needs to be sanded to give the gelcoat a 'tooth' or key to stick too?

You're using NON-blushing, UN-waxed polyester resin, not epoxy, correct.

Gelcoat requires non-standard spray guns & larger tips sizes then what might normally spray other paints & etc. WOG usually asks quite a few Q's when someone talks about shooting gelcoat themselves.

I can't answer your question regardless, sorry, but I suspect that some of the above followups will be asked....

The red guard is interesting, what is it getting covered w/? It's on the inside surface of a built-in cooler box?

 

[ShellBack89]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

I'm rolling the gelcoat so from what I understand that for non-visable spaces such as the fuel deck and stringers within the fuel deck I don't have to sand it but for the deck which we'll be walking on then I do have to sand. This is due to the texture of the and weave of the 1708 not because I think that sanding is required to give it a bit. Yes, I'm using un-waxed polyester resin.

The red guard, which I saw used on Friscoboaters thread and have used on the backing board of doing a shower fills any pin hole voids that maybe down around the base and connections. This is over kill on my part. I had it, so I figured I just throw it down since I'll never need it again. The idea is that since the ice chest will have water in it then if for some dumb reason there is a small hole it won't spread into the void where the foam will be. Again, it's more for my well being then reality:facepalm:. I'm going to cover it with 1708 and CSM since it will be wet and I want this as tight as possible. I'm also going to gelcoat this once it's ready. The open area will have foam in it. I also poor down any resin that maybe collected in the pan to help create a little build up in the area between the two walls and before I put foam in. Again, more to help seal up any pin hole cracks.

JB, thanks for your assistance. I appreciate you taking the time to answer and comment on the thread. I'm looking forward for this thing being DONE!!!!!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

Yacht Dr posted some info about spraying Gelcoat that WOG reposted recently. I'm too foggy from driving back & forth across the state for the last 2 days:facepalm: to remember where the original or the repost was. But I think the details could be relevant even if you're rolling it on.

What I do remember was that Yacht Dr mentioned building up the gelcoat much thicker (heavy coats, or many coats, I can't recall) then you think you 'need' too. Then just like wet sanding orange peel out of painted surfaces, you sand, sand, sand, sand <<---- There's a bit of sanding when going back w/ gel. Mostly because you are working right side out, and building up to the finished gelcoat surface, instead of on the inside of a mold that is prepped to have gel sprayed onto it, and building up from the gelcoat.

Thick gelcoat & all that sanding to get it slick/smooth, may mean you don't need to have to prep the resin & texture/imprint from the 1708. MAY mean you don't need to minimize the texture. I really don't know...

I also don't remember Jay (friscob) talking about or showing himself doing all that much sanding on the rolled gelcoat he put down. So all that above may have been for nothing...

 

[john-88]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

no problem jbcrut00 it was recently posted on my thread, i hope this is the one u meant good luck shellback 89 im going to sand down and re gelcoat my boat, i know its a lot of work but i'd rather do it this way than spraying paint, i dont trust that



This comes from Yacht Doctor from a post he gave a couple of years ago...

Gelcoat is actually Very ez to apply. IMO way easier then paint.

What you need is for full gel spray...

1. repair as needed. prep with 80-120 grit.
2. mask and tape.
3. acetone wipedown.
4. Mix Gel ( Im assuming white..this is NOT for dark colors !! ) with approx 20% Patch Aid and About 10% acetone.
5. Mix MEKP catalyst about 1.5-2 % ( depending on the gel.. ).
6. Start spraying ( H.F. 2 qt pressure pots work just fine ).
7. Spray 2 medium coats then Flush gun with acetone.
8. Mix more gel and spray 2 wet coats.
9. clean gun. have a beer.
10. Get a Big magic marker and goto town ( kids love this part ) . just scribble all over. then a damp acetone rag to Smear it around making a good guide coat for sanding. ( you can use dykem or etc instead but this is cheap and fun for kids marking smily faces on the boat ) .
11. Block or DA sand with 320 or 400 depending on how well the gel layed down. ( Dont sand all the guide coat off .. just about 90% ).
12. wetsand with 600 untill the rest of the guide coat is gone..then again lighty with 1200 grit wet.
13. Buff till its done.

 

[john-88]

Re: 1988 Sea Ray Seville Deck & Stringers

woodonglass also posted this:

Pay close attention to YD's instructions, especially about flushing the gun with acetone. You only have about 20-30 mins before the gelcoat starts to set up and the gun must be flushed before that happens or it will be permanently ruined. The HF gun he mentioned is here...

http://www.harborfreight.com/profess...kit-93305.html
It comes with a 1.4 mm tip and that's gunna be to small. You'll need to find a 2.5mm tip. Gelcoat is very viscous and will have problems flowing thought a 1.4mm tip.

This one I believe will work on that gun.

http://www.amazon.com/NEEDLE-NOZZLE-.../dp/B003FYNBO0