1988 TOP 115 powerhead removal..shift linkage?

[ianmoore]

Hello all,

Just doing a sanity check. i have the merc repair manual for this motor and am removing the powerhead. I have everything off..The only thing im not sure of, and want confirmation for, is the shift linkage.

The only piece i saw to remove is the one included in the photo, taking this arm off, and leave the small 90* piece. I don't see any way to remove beyond this, and the manual is very vague.

I took off the arm connected with bolt and nut. Is that the only thing that needs to be removed?

 

[racerone]

Correct.

 

[Chris1956]

The shift slider is bolted to the powerhead. As such, the linkage from the shift slider to the shift arm needs to be released. The rubber slider can come out of the slide track to accomplish that. You can also remove the bolt holding the shift arm to the slider linkage.

 

[ianmoore]

Thanks! Taking powerhead off to see if block is salvageable. No compression in C3. Looked inside and it looks like the rings, but this is new on my punch card. Hoping I can get away with a new piston and some work on the cylinder. She has been a great motor.

 

[Chris1956]

It is often #3 that overheats and fails. Make sure the carbs are clean and the water pump impeller are changed every 3 years or sooner, if you hit suck sand into the motor.

 

[ianmoore]

It is often #3 that overheats and fails. Make sure the carbs are clean and the water pump impeller are changed every 3 years or sooner, if you hit suck sand into the motor.

I got powerhead off. I think I’m gonna start a new thread. Got water jacket and exhaust cover off. Not seeing any major cylinder damage from here, but missing, or can’t see two of the rings on that cylinder.

 

[Chris1956]

Have you removed the transfer cover? That will give vision to the cylinder. A bore scope is also good, however, you are going to need to pull the piston out anyway.

The rings will likely be stuck in their grooves, killing the compression. If the cylinder walls are good, still with a crosshatch, you may get to replace the piston with a new one, or else clean the grooves and install new rings.

Often new pistons come with 2 keystone shaped rings, vs the 3 square profile rings, that came on OE. If you can reuse the piston, make sure to get the correct rings, if you can,

 

[ianmoore]

Have you removed the transfer cover? That will give vision to the cylinder. A bore scope is also good, however, you are going to need to pull the piston out anyway.

The rings will likely be stuck in their grooves, killing the compression. If the cylinder walls are good, still with a crosshatch, you may get to replace the piston with a new one, or else clean the grooves and install new rings.

Often new pistons come with 2 keystone shaped rings, vs the 3 square profile rings, that came on OE. If you can reuse the piston, make sure to get the correct rings, if you can,

I am wondering if I should start another thread? I want to be conscientious of the forum. But, i'm well past the initial query of how to get powerhead off. I can go either way...

I got some pics with a borescope that i am glad to post if helpful. I can see that 2 rings are off of cylinder 3, and i see one missing on cylinder 6. From what i can see, the bore itself on both cylinders looks pretty good. the squish band area has some nicks on both of those cylinders. But I honestly won't have a great look until i can look at the cylinders with my eyes.

I have the Merc manual for this motor, and I want to make sure i am doing this right. It isn't very clear on all the bolts to remove crankcase. I have one side removed. I am assuming the endcap are 2 on each side?? There is one at the bottom that is longer, and then one actually coming in from the left, at the top. Looking at the image from the manual, i would assuming the top one came from the right, as the others do, but the starter bracket is covering where that would be and its not removeable

 

[ianmoore]

Scratch that. I just found it on the pic. Its under the flywheel