1988 TOP 115 powerhead removal..shift linkage?

ianmoore

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 5, 2014
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188
Hello all,

Just doing a sanity check. i have the merc repair manual for this motor and am removing the powerhead. I have everything off..The only thing im not sure of, and want confirmation for, is the shift linkage.

The only piece i saw to remove is the one included in the photo, taking this arm off, and leave the small 90* piece. I don't see any way to remove beyond this, and the manual is very vague.

I took off the arm connected with bolt and nut. Is that the only thing that needs to be removed?
 

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Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
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28,771
The shift slider is bolted to the powerhead. As such, the linkage from the shift slider to the shift arm needs to be released. The rubber slider can come out of the slide track to accomplish that. You can also remove the bolt holding the shift arm to the slider linkage.
 

ianmoore

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 5, 2014
Messages
188
Thanks! Taking powerhead off to see if block is salvageable. No compression in C3. Looked inside and it looks like the rings, but this is new on my punch card. Hoping I can get away with a new piston and some work on the cylinder. She has been a great motor.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,771
It is often #3 that overheats and fails. Make sure the carbs are clean and the water pump impeller are changed every 3 years or sooner, if you hit suck sand into the motor.
 

ianmoore

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2014
Messages
188
It is often #3 that overheats and fails. Make sure the carbs are clean and the water pump impeller are changed every 3 years or sooner, if you hit suck sand into the motor.
I got powerhead off. I think I’m gonna start a new thread. Got water jacket and exhaust cover off. Not seeing any major cylinder damage from here, but missing, or can’t see two of the rings on that cylinder.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,771
Have you removed the transfer cover? That will give vision to the cylinder. A bore scope is also good, however, you are going to need to pull the piston out anyway.

The rings will likely be stuck in their grooves, killing the compression. If the cylinder walls are good, still with a crosshatch, you may get to replace the piston with a new one, or else clean the grooves and install new rings.

Often new pistons come with 2 keystone shaped rings, vs the 3 square profile rings, that came on OE. If you can reuse the piston, make sure to get the correct rings, if you can,
 
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