1990 4.3 Century 2000 - Floor,Transom,Stringer,Upholstery Project

[Chris51280]

You can easily break the foam off after 2 minutes. Wait too long and it ii rock hard where you need to grind it off.

 

[steve_h7]

:thumb: Thanks!

 

[Chris51280]

Pucks are pb'ed in. Deck is pb'ed as well. Tomorrow will be tabbing in the deck

 

[steve_h7]

So exciting... almost there! :thumb:

 

[Chris51280]

Did not get as much done as I had hoped. Sealed the deck and then added the outer tabs. I did start also with the upper csm layer just to the ski locker. I figured I make those in seperate steps since it is a pita to do both layups in there with the 6oz.
also glued together my engine mounts. I have to sand it down so they are all even. Made them out of 3/4 plywood up to a total width of 5.5". Pictures tomorrow

 

[kcassells]

Looks Good!

 

[Chris51280]

Thanks Kevin

 

[Chris51280]

Motor mounts are done waiting to ve glued in. I sealed it before it will go in tomorrow. 6oz fabric is awesome. It soaks up resin really quick and lays down very nice with a brush. Just don't pull too hard on it otherwise it will wrinkle.
I had some bubbles under the csm even though I sealed it before, maybe it wasn't enough resin. Csm is a necessary evil we have to live with.

 

[steve_h7]

Deck looks awesome! :thumb:

 

[Chris51280]

Another layer of csm down in the middle. I was debating on doing a wet on wet with the csm and the 6oz. The 6oz comes in 60" wide rolls and the csm in 48". This makes it hard to reach. So I'm doing the csm first and then later the 6oz. The 6oz wets out really nice and is very easy to work with. So no worries there.
glued in the motor mounts with pb. Tomorrow will ve classing the motor mounts with csm and a layer of 1708. Not sure on how to do all the curves.

 

[kcassells]

Cut your pc. to fit for the curve. Then do a dry run fit. On the angles work some light tapping with a hammer or pc. of wood. Helps to make the glass conform to the shape. Good Luck!

 

[Chris51280]

kcassells
you mean try to do one full piece instead of strips?

 

[kcassells]

Strippers are a good idea too! Still work the 1708 some. Sorry didn't get back sooner, been working on my house drain line all day to clear. Have to crash. :blue:

 

[Chris51280]

kcassells
Hope you got your pipes cleared. Good thing you are a plumber. How much did you charge your wife?
Got the csm and first layer of 1708 down. There is a little gap at the upper edge that will be covered with alternating overlaps. Don't know how else to do it.
starting to lay myself in a corner. Running out of room to stand. Will do the rear sides tomorrow. Still missing the csm and 6oz there.

 

[steve_h7]

:thumb: Glass work looks great.

 

[kcassells]

Lookssssssss GGGGGGreat!

 

[Chris51280]

Thanks, the 6oz was a little more pain in the butt this time. You have to be sure that all the wrinkles are out, otherwise it will throw bubbles. There is some give but it has its limits. It is also not easy to see where the bubbles are since the csm underneath is not very flat and the 6oz will leave some puddles on top. After cleaning with acetone, the 6oz just sticks and you can't get it to move easily. Its like silk on rough surface that just gets caught on any little thing. Wetout is super easy though. Not alot of soaking required. I will level some spots out with fairing compound later

 

[Chris51280]

I'm thinking about how I want my bench seat to look like. I can seal the wood with resin and then apply gelcoat over it without csm since it has no structural purpose. The resin would seal the wood enough and the gelcoat would adhere too. Then sand it smooth in areas that will be visible. I know some have used batting and vinyl but I'm not sure I want to do that since it will most likely rip at the bottom. Using old timers formula and then paint white is an option too but I'm not sure what surface finish I will get. I assume that the wood grain would show through.

 

[kcassells]

After cleaning with acetone, the 6oz just sticks ​

…...

Me... gelcoat... Bah Humbug says I! But iffin you like it use it.
Next time give the acetone time to vap out.

Check out Kirbys paint...com Same paints as rust so you can use the WOG mix formula.
BTW Thats what I'm using.

 

[Woodonglass]

If you used the Old Timers and then followed up with 2-3 coats of full strength Spar Varnish, You will have NO bleed thru of the wood grain and using the Rustoleum Paint system with Hardener will yield a High Gloss Very durable finish. It is NOT as durable as a highly polished GelCoat finish but it IS pretty darn good and will last a good long time.