1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

[harleynut]

I am new to the forum and want to thank everyone for all the great posts. I am just starting a project of my own and I have been pouring over the forum and finding lots of great info.

My project is to restore the interior of a 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 (and eventually the exterior). I bought the boat a couple of years ago. The interior carpet was pretty worn out and a couple of the seat bases had started to lift. This boat has a walk-through windshield and apparently water was getting down into the wood probably through the screws. The wood in parts of the consoles was basically powder. So, my son talked me into redoing all the flooring and rebuilding the consoles so we gutted the boat. Amazingly most of the flooring was in pretty good shape but we decided to replace it all instead of spending time scraping off all the old carpet glue plus we wanted to make some improvements. I'm at the point now where I am stripping the last of the carpet glue from the aluminum sides on the interior and bow area. Most of the glue is pretty dried out and has come off with a simple sanding disk with a course grit on my drill. To remove the remaining I plan on using Zinsser Adhesive Remover that I bought at my local Menards. The tech data didn't say don't use on aluminum so I assume it's OK.

To make a long story short I am at the point where I need to start acquiring and preping my materials for the rebuild and this is where the forums have been really helpful but being a newb to all this I still have some questions. Ideally I?d like to get as much as I can at my local hardware stores (Ace, Fleet Farm, Menards, Home Depot, or Lowes).

Here is a link to my project which I plan on keeping up to date as progress is made (as slow as it is): https://picasaweb.google.com/104519037635699282916/1990LundTyeeBoatRestore?authuser=0&feat=directlink


1) Plywood - lots of varying opinions here. I?d like to use the Arauco ACX plywood listed below from Menards (they stock it). As far as I can tell this is an enviro-friendly farmed wood. It?s 5 ply. Does that seem like a viable option? Otherwise, I will probably order the Marine Grade plywood listed. But it?s nice to use stuff the store stocks. The original floor was Plydek which I see Overton?s and Gander carries.

2) Treating the plywood floor: This is where I get confused having zero experience here. I really don?t want to put fiberglass over any of it (the original floor didn?t). I assume I have to cover it in something. My local store has 3M Fiberglass Resin #20124. Can this be used to coat the ply? I also saw Evercoat Boat Yard Resin in the list after reading through the fiberglass post. I have also seen Rustoleum Marine Spar Varnish or Helmsman Spar Urethane (both available locally). Are all of these viable options? Is one better than the others? Can someone recommend a specific brand? I really want some thing that I can just put a couple of coats over the ply without hassling with fiberglass unless everyone says I need to glass it.

3) If I get marine ply does that have to be coated as well?

4) I am going to need a supply of stainless screws. I can reuse some but will need more. Does anyone have a supplier that?s reasonable? I probably need #10 and #12 in various lengths. Home Depot wants $1 for two screws.

I am sure I will have more questions as I move along in the process. Especially when I start rebuilding the consoles. I?d like to get away from the vinyl covering like the original had and maybe create something with a fiberglass top but we?ll see how much ambition I have when it comes time for that!

Below are the Menards Plywood Options (1/2" and 3/4" prices follow)

Arauco 4' x 8' ACX Plywood ($22, $30, onsale, stocked)
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/plywood/c-5698.htm?vendorNameDisplay_facet=Arauco

Roseburg Marine Grade Plywood ($50, $70, ordered, 7-10 days)
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/plywood/c-5698.htm?criteria1_facet=Marine+Grade

Menards BCX Plywood ($14, $20, onsale, stocked)
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/plywood/1-2-x-4-x-8-bcx-plywood/p-1455689-c-5698.htm

Thanks so much.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Arauco ply will work great. I used it for my transom and it was really nice. MUCH nicer than the regular exterior grade I used for my deck which had lots of voids.

Polyester fiberglass resin has no strength at all without fiberglass. It will crack and peel pretty quickly. If you're looking to avoid fiberglass, many of us have been using epoxy resin by itself which is a viable option. You won't find that locally though, you'll have to order it from somewhere like U.S. Composites or Clark Craft.

That's a real nice boat. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project!

Not sure what your floor covering choice will be but I highly recommend marine vinyl as opposed to carpet. At least for the main deck. I used a mixture of vinyl and carpet on mine and am very pleased with the vinyl. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2504.jpg

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

So I will cover the Arauco ply and all exposed edges in epoxy resin. I will probably go with the 635 Thin Epoxy Resin System with the Medium Epoxy Hardener from US Composites. I may also consider using the West Systems 105 with the 206 Hardener since it appears there are some retail stores within 60 miles of my area that carry it.

* What's a good rule to use for how much resin to order for the US Composites (coverage is probably brand-specific)? I didn't really find anything on the vendor sites that provides coverage information. I figure I need enough to cover less than 5 sheets of plywood on both sides so that would be something like 400 - 500 square feet needed. I was surprised at the number of square feet but when I added in the main deck, bow floor, bow deck, two consoles, and aft storage/deck it adds up quick.

* Is this stuff best applied with a roller or scraper?

* Is one coat enough?

* Is it necessary to cover both sides?

* Is there any special prep needed to get the vinyl and carpet glues to stick to the surfaces? Reading through recent posts it sounds like the Nautolex glue is fine over the top but what about the carpet?

Nice pics, ezmobee. I blew through your Jupiter restore and it looks great. Yes, I was considering doing exactly what you suggested. I think I will be using Nautolex on the main deck and carpeting the rest.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Ditto on the plwood and epoxy, the 635 medium is what I'm using. I tried the Spar urethane and didn't like the results I was getting so now I'm sanding that junk off and switching to the epoxy.

Another ditto on the marine vinyl as well, it will shed water instead of sucking it up like carpet does.


btw, a kinked wire cup brush on your drill will probably remove the glue residue better than the stripper, plus it will give the new glue something to grip.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I blew through your Jupiter restore and it looks great.

Blow through the other one, where I actually knew what I was doin'

Epoxy usage seems to vary greatly depending on what kind of epoxy you use, application method and how thirsty the wood is. I managed to blow through like 3 gallons of Clark Craft epoxy on just my deck boards. I did two coats and sanded in between. The result looked like bar tops. It was almost a shame to cover it up. I applied it with cheap 3" chip brushes. Coat both sides of the wood and hit the edges every time.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

ez, I looked through the first several pages of your other boat and I will definitely have some questions for you along the way! Many of the ideas I've been kicking around I think you went through already. I can't wait to see how it turned out for you when I get to finish. Couple things I am considering:

* Eliminating the removable platform in the front for the fishing seat and putting in a permanent one. Maybe the opposite of what you did? My boat is a bit limited on space and I need to find a friendly spot to put my trolling batteries. I had the tucked under the driver console before the remodel. Now I am just not sure. I thought I might use the space between the consoles and build the covers for the batteries to sit.

* Rear fold-up seating with a seat base between. I really like that on the newer boats. I'm considering some options there. I haven't found any good hinges yet so this is a plan in the works. I was considering something along the lines of the newer Crestliner Serenity offers. You can see some nice pics of some gents boat here:http://s419.photobucket.com/albums/pp277/sclancy3737/2005 Crestliner Serenity/


jig, i will try the wire cup brush tonight. I like that idea a lot better if it works out.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

So I am back at it. I used the cupped wire brush to remove the old carpet glue from the aluminum. I think I used up 4 or 5 cheap drill brushes from Menards but it looks nice and clean!

It's starting to get cool here in SE MN. Is there a minimum temp I need to be concerned with when coating the ply?


The original floor was put in using 5-6 separate cut pieces of ply. Each piece was wrapped in carpet on top and edges then installed and screwed down. Is this important to maintain? One of the sections does cover the gas tank. Maybe for access and repair? I am planning on covering the main deck with vinyl so I would prefer to cover in 1 piece.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I coated my ply in the winter in a garage heated by a large space heater. Probably never got much above 60. So you should be good for a while yet. No I wouldn't think you need to maintain the same "piecing" of the floor.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

If we are talking about epoxy, the warmer the better. It's much easier to lay it down with good results at warm temps so if you can help it don't wait too much longer.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

The original floor was Plydek which I see Overton?s and Gander carries.

What's the condition of the Plydeck that you ripped out? Is it rotting and falling apart or still in good condition? If it's still in good condition after 20 years, I'd just go back with the Plydek. The wood is more expensive, but you won't have to coat it with anything since it's treated. Saves the cost of epoxy and time of applying it. (Almost all the treated ply I ripped out of my Crestliner was in great condition after 10 years, no rotting, just a few thin pieces that broken. Wished I would have been able to get the Plydek or treated marine ply out here....) If the Plydek is rotting and falling apart, well then yeah, might as well epoxy some non-marine plywood.

For vinyling separate panels or the entire deck, I'd go back with what Lund had and do separate panels. If you ever have to work on the fuel tank or go below deck, the separate panels will save your vinyl, you won't have to cut the nice vinyl up to remove a deck panel.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

So I am back at it. I used the cupped wire brush to remove the old carpet glue from the aluminum. I think I used up 4 or 5 cheap drill brushes from Menards but it looks nice and clean!

It's starting to get cool here in SE MN. Is there a minimum temp I need to be concerned with when coating the ply?


The original floor was put in using 5-6 separate cut pieces of ply. Each piece was wrapped in carpet on top and edges then installed and screwed down. Is this important to maintain? One of the sections does cover the gas tank. Maybe for access and repair? I am planning on covering the main deck with vinyl so I would prefer to cover in 1 piece.

If you haven't already bought your epoxy you can go with the 4:1 fast set resin, it's made for lower temperature applications.


I agree with FD about wrapping the deck panels individually, very handy when you need to get below deck and don't have to rip out your floor finish... and the vinyl will be easier to apply and will hold better to the panels by being stapled down to the edges on the back of the panels.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

The Plydek I ripped out was overall in pretty good shape after 20 years. In hindsight I probably shouldn't have gotten so aggressive when tearing out the old and probably could have cleaned it up, reused it, and just replaced what I had to. I would like to use the Plydek and found a couple of places online to order from but nothing local. Given it's a Lund boat and they at least used to be built here in MN I'd think I could find a supplier. You can see some pics of the existing floor here:

https://picasaweb.google.com/104519037635699282916/1990LundTyeeBoatRestore?authuser=0&feat=directlink

The other issue is most places carry the Plydek in 3/4" thickness. Most of my decking appears to be 1/2" and only the panel over the gas tank is 3/4" inch. Is that for less weight or less cost to use the 1/2" by the manufacturer? I was thinking the 1/2" was a bit thin especially where the bases are mounted for the seats.

I have not order my epoxy resin yet. Still searching around. I read a few posts where they mentioned using a product called Defy Epoxy Fortified Wood Stain. I can buy that locally. Is that a viable option? http://www.defydeckstain.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=147&osCsid=a950154dfa005db7ee7fe0d1b8f236a2

Fishrdan, are you saying that if I go with the Plydek there is no additional treatment necessary? Just lay it down? Is this true of any quality marine grade ply? I can't tell if there is anything covering the existing ply. Definitely not glassed.

I'll probably wrap the panels. I like that idea as well. I haven't looked at a new Lund floor in a while and I will have to swing by to check them out.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Plydek "XL" is treated so you don't need to encapsulate it with epoxy or anything else, just leave it raw. (Don't use ACQ green treated wood, it will eat the aluminum.) If you don't use CCA treated plywood you will have to encapsulate the wood with epoxy or poly resin and glass. There are many types of marine plywood that are not treated, so just because it says "marine" doesn't mean it's treated. I would not use untreated douglas fir marine plywood as the wood itself will rot just as quick as normal doug fir plywood.

One good thing about epoxying non-marine plywood, it will stiffen up the deck panels. I'm not sure how Plydek is constructed, but if the plys are laid at 90* like normal plywood, epoxied non-marine plywood will be stiffer. (IE: the face ply's can't compress and flex easily because of the coating.)

Your sig says Rochester MN, isn't there a Gander MT store there, can they order in the Plydek? Going to 3/4" could throw things off a bit and you will have more weight in the boat, but the decks will feel more solid. 1/2" ply is about 50#/ sheet while 3/4 is about 75#/sheet, the extra weight can add up. I added over 100# to my boat using 3/4 plywood... I used 3/4 as I wanted solid decks, it's a trade-off. The only thing that was a PITA was realigning the windshield, the extra 1/4" threw the alignment off a bit, took an hour or 2 to get realigned perfectly.

Lots of guys epoxy plywood here in the forums and it works well, it's the best solution for them as they can't source treated marine plywood locally.

Time to open up a can of worms... :facepalm: Epoxying works great for keeping the water out, but if the coating gets breached, it will also work great to hold the water in,,, and eventually rot out the wood. (Ask the fiberglass hull guys) On the other hand, raw treated plywood will breathe and eventually dry out, like the 20 year old unrotted decks you just ripped out of the boat.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks for the Gander tip. I should have thought of just asking them at the store. I practically live there.

Does all the wood need to be epoxied and/or Plydek including the consoles? Or is it just mainly the decking? I have not tore apart my consoles yet to see what is underneath them. I am thinking I will cover them partially in vinyl and partially in carpet like they were from the factory.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I have been reading a lot of posts (including ezmobee's restore!) and am concerned now about the original foam in my boat. Should I replace this? It seems to be in good condition but I'm no foam expert. You can see it in the pics linked above.

 

[Frayed_Knot]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I have been reading a lot of posts (including ezmobee's restore!) and am concerned now about the original foam in my boat. Should I replace this? It seems to be in good condition but I'm no foam expert. You can see it in the pics linked above.

Hey Harley - I am no expert either but I just ran into this same question - foam looked solid and in great shape, I checked all over and could not find any signs of moisture even under the spots where the foam was damaged from seat posts puncturing it. then I started digging into it and found that aluminum was pitted in several places - only found one tiny spot with any moisture at all in on of the last sections I ripped out. you can see the pics of the pitted metal in my thread (linked in the sig). I had not intention of digging the foam out either but glad I did now. Not sure to what to tell you about yours, but that was my experience. a small flat shovel seemed to work pretty well - FYI.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I'd take a core sample or two and if it's dry, I'd leave it be.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I will take the samples tonight.

F/K - it looks like we have a similar restore. I can't wait to get through the rest of your posts. I also have some concerns about fuel leakage due to a strong smell of gas whenever the boat is parked in the garage. You can see from the pics around the tank and in the hookups there's been something going on. I did find what might be a small crack in one of my feeder lines to the motor I will be replacing. I am going to have to fire it up and see what happens.

Tyee Restore

btw - I love those Crestliner boats and how they are setup. I almost bought a Serenity this past summer but the wife said "No" to having two boats. I was just getting started on this restore. I can't understand that thinking...

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I almost bought a Serenity this past summer but the wife said "No" to having two boats. I was just getting started on this restore. I can't understand that thinking...

Ya' know,,, It's easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.... (BTW, I have 2 boats )

 

[Frayed_Knot]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I will take the samples tonight.

F/K - it looks like we have a similar restore. I can't wait to get through the rest of your posts. I also have some concerns about fuel leakage due to a strong smell of gas whenever the boat is parked in the garage. You can see from the pics around the tank and in the hookups there's been something going on. I did find what might be a small crack in one of my feeder lines to the motor I will be replacing. I am going to have to fire it up and see what happens.

View attachment 114119

Looks like you might have a bad gasket under the sending unit. If the gasket is shot that would leak a fair bit of vapor and make for a stinky boat. That would be a quick fix. Changing out the fuel lines wouldn't be a bad idea either - especially if they are cracked. Easy to do all that now when the floor is ripped off.

very similar project indeed - right down to the exact same dewalt drillbit case sitting on the console of my boat . I will be watching your thread and stealing all your good ideas as you go!