1992 Rinker Captiva 186

[Hunterut45]

Hello everyone I am new to the forum. I am contemplating on renovating a 1992 Rinker Captiva 186.. I have owned this boat since 2002 and has been a great boat. The motor died last year and the boat has sat since then. Also last year I noticed that the floor felt spongy where it ended at the engine compartment. As well as the top of the storage compartment on the port side. The vinal had started to were after 28 years (became brittle and started to crack in places). The wife and I started looking at newer used boat and felt spending anywhere from 35K to 70K was not what we wanted to spend. This brings me to the major renovation of the Rinker. Thoughts at this point is to see what the damage is and come up with an estimate for what it would cost to restore this boat.
At this point in time I have removed engine, transom and all other items except for the upper half of the hull. I have attached some pictures for the two questions I have at this time. 1st to the left an right of the transom where the out drive mounts is there plywood in the transom below the flooring on this boat. (from tapping on the outside of the transom it sounds line it is all composite material). 2nd I removed the screws to sperate the upper and lower hull parts and the upper dropped about an inch. Will this cause an issue I do not have the supports in place (cradled)

 

[alldodge]

Rinker didn't use composites that ever found in their hulls, its plywood.

The hull should be ok without a cradle, the issue will be holding it up when it comes time to reinstall cap I'm thinking

 

[Hunterut45]

alldodge thanks for the response. from the looks of the deck and the fact that the floor is spongy about 2ft from the transom on both port and starbprd side

Rinker didn't use composites that ever found in their hulls, its plywood.

The hull should be ok without a cradle, the issue will be holding it up when it comes time to reinstall cap I'm thinking

alldodge thanks for the response. from the looks of the deck and the fact that the floor is spongy about 2ft from the transom on both port and starboard side, I will more than likely be replacing the stinger, bulkheads. and transom. I will have a clearer answer once I remove the decking. But, first things first I must build the cradle. Not exactly sure how to proceed. My intent is to leave the boat on the trailer because lower chines are supported with a 9ft 2x6. 2in from the back of transom to 3ft and 6in from keel termination point. The issue is building a support system for the upper chines that curves from the transom to bow. If any has inexpensive ideas, please share (wood ridicules high right now.

I have attached a photo to show the upper chines

Looking forward to all the support I can get in tackling this boat renovations.

 

[todhunter]

I didn't build a cradle, and I did my restoration on the trailer (bunks...similar to yours). Right after pulling the cap I measured the hull's width every foot and wrote those dimensions down. Throughout the hull restoration, I would check against those dimensions before glassing in the transom and any stringers, bulkheads, or pieces of deck. A few times I needed to use ratchet straps to pull the hull back into shape prior to glassing (I think I had ~1" splay at the worst spot). We put the cap on this past weekend and it dropped right into place. Of course, the safe thing to do is build a cradle, but I felt confident not doing it on my project and it worked out. YMMV.

 

[Hunterut45]

I didn't build a cradle, and I did my restoration on the trailer (bunks...similar to yours). Right after pulling the cap I measured the hull's width every foot and wrote those dimensions down. Throughout the hull restoration, I would check against those dimensions before glassing in the transom and any stringers, bulkheads, or pieces of deck. A few times I needed to use ratchet straps to pull the hull back into shape prior to glassing (I think I had ~1" splay at the worst spot). We put the cap on this past weekend and it dropped right into place. Of course, the safe thing to do is build a cradle, but I felt confident not doing it on my project and it worked out. YMMV

 

[Hunterut45]

Todhunter, thanks for the tip. when you pulled your screws to separate the hull did it drop over the wide portion of the lower hull. I expected the hull to spray and not mover in word. Should I concern myself with this.

 

[todhunter]

I'm not sure what you're asking. To separate the halves, I removed the rub rail, pulled the screws holding the cap onto the hull, then I used a paint scraper to break the silicone bond between the cap and hull. After that I wedged the cap up high enough to get a 2x4 between the cap and hull all the way across. I put 4 2x4's across the boat, then we used those to lift the cap off. It never had the opportunity to drop down into the hull.

 

[alldodge]

I'm not sure what you're asking. To separate the halves, I removed the rub rail, pulled the screws holding the cap onto the hull, then I used a paint scraper to break the silicone bond between the cap and hull. After that I wedged the cap up high enough to get a 2x4 between the cap and hull all the way across. I put 4 2x4's across the boat, then we used those to lift the cap off. It never had the opportunity to drop down into the hull.

He's meaning that the cap was being held about an inch higher by the screws. When all screws were removed the top dropped down slightly.

It will need to be held up to reattach

 

[todhunter]

He's meaning that the cap was being held about an inch higher by the screws. When all screws were removed the top dropped down slightly.

It will need to be held up to reattach

Gotcha - agree, it will need to be supported back at the original height. Mine was not like that - it was sitting all the way down before I pulled the screws out.

 

[Hunterut45]

Gotcha - agree, it will need to be supported back at the original height. Mine was not like that - it was sitting all the way down before I pulled the screws out.

So at the end of the day when all renovations are complete and I reinstall the cap and it fits snug as you describe I should not worry.

 

[Hunterut45]

So at the end of the day when all renovations are complete and I reinstall the cap and it fits snug as you describe I should not worry.

Thanks for your advice

 

[KJM]

Are you sure you even need to remove the cap? I just finished tearing out and replaceing the transom, floor and stringers with the cap on and the boat on a roller trailer. No issues if you can get good access to the tansom.

 

[Hunterut45]

Are you sure you even need to remove the cap? I just finished tearing out and replaceing the transom, floor and stringers with the cap on and the boat on a roller trailer. No issues if you can get good access to the tansom.

The deck is mushy and I don't think I can remove the deck without removing the cap,

 

[Hunterut45]

Are you sure you even need to remove the cap? I just finished tearing out and replaceing the transom, floor and stringers with the cap on and the boat on a roller trailer. No issues if you can get good access to the tansom.

Thanks for your sevice

 

[Scott Danforth]

removing the cap is a good idea. if your garage has open trusses, you can ratchet strap the cap to the rafter and raise it out of the way.

you can build a cradle between your trailer frame and hull if you need additional support.

 

[Hunterut45]

removing the cap is a good idea. if your garage has open trusses, you can ratchet strap the cap to the rafter and raise it out of the way.

you can build a cradle between your trailer frame and hull if you need additional support.

After conducting research and reading lots of posts I have come with a plan to support the boat. I am sure a few of you will feel I am overthinking and over-cautious. Now you have an insight into my twisted mind. this is why I need to remove the Cap the deck extends approximately 3ft past the front of the cabin and approximately 8 to 10 inches of clearance to tie in new stringers and deck. now picture shamu trying to replace these stringers deck, thats me. I have a great plan to remove the cap, friends and a 12 pack.

 

[Scott Danforth]

once you get all the screws out of the cap joint, work the joint with a metal putty knife or something to cut the sealant applied at the factory

 

[Hunterut45]

once you get all the screws out of the cap joint, work the joint with a metal putty knife something to cut the sealant applied at the factory

The question, the use of Marine or CDX plywood for stingers and such my intent is to encapsulate the plywood in resin and fiberglass. Also by encapsulating the stingers, bulkheads and deck in fiberglass along with Gelcoat wilI I be causing issues with the added wait.