1992 Sea Ray 180 Floor Project Help and Advice needed

[MC_What have I done?!]

Hey guys, I’m a little worried I didn’t leave enough wiggle room for my fuel tank, I got the filets done and as low profile as possible, and the first layer of 1708 tabbing on the inside of the fuel bay, when I put the fuel tank back in to test the fit, it was very tight. I sanded down any little bumps and resin pools and lightly over the 1708 just enough to feel smoother to the touch, fit the tank again and it was better but I’m worried if I put another layer of 1708 tabbing down that I won’t have enough room.

Really not sure what to do.... hope someone has a suggestion.

 

[froggy1150]

Too tight deck to hull or side to side? If deck to hull you can change elevation by putting some cleats that are higher to give you the clearance. I measured wrong in the back and had to gain about 5/8ths from center bulkhead to back so deck was flat. So I sliced some 2x4 into the shape of a right angle 7 and then cut my taper in to the top part. Then pb'd I place with the top part of the 7 over the stringers. Then I laid glass for support. If it's side to side I think you will have to cut and move

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

It’s side to side, and I’m not cutting those m*|~%$&:/@ out! LOL. I will finish the stringers out properly and see what has to be done, even if that means have a tank built.

 

[kcassells]

Pictures?

 

[kcassells]

I went back and saw your tank install. Wow yup tighter than a …..You need a gap for air to breath and no glass to rub/irritate the poly tank.
I'd knock out thos 2 stringers and re-install with some breathing room. No biggy but some xtra work.

Oh yea... after you chill out revisit the issue.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

I went back and saw your tank install. Wow yup tighter than a …..You need a gap for air to breath and no glass to rub/irritate the poly tank.
I'd knock out thos 2 stringers and re-install with some breathing room. No biggy but some xtra work.

Oh yea... after you chill out revisit the issue.

So frustrating, I had the spacing decent but I think my stringers went in a bit when I set them. Now that I have “chilled out” LOL, my biggest issue is that they are solid all the way to the tip of the bow with a 2 inch notch for the bulk head.

What about this this as a possibility? I could double up the stringers with another set of 3/4 ply on the outside, since I have not done the tabbing on the outside I can glue and screw them together. Then take my 4 1/2 high speed grinder and grind 1/4 inch off each side, this would give me the clearance needed and 1 1/2 inch stringers on each side of the tank. Grinding sucks but I like that idea better than cutting the stringers back out. If this is completely asinine and the wrong thing to do then ok but I think it would be faster and even stronger in the end going this way and has a lot to do with not wanting to cut the bulk head or my nice filets back out. Lol

I really screwed this one up... smh! Live and learn, I’ll know next time to leave extra space though, that’s for sure.

 

[chevymaher]

Me I would cuss myself a while. The put 3 more layers on the outside. Leave the inside with one layer since the tank fits. And like you said mental note. Don't do that again.

 

[52FordF2]

I need some help guys, in preparing for motor and outdrive reinstall, besides knowing that I need a alignment tool, I know nothing else. I have checked the gimble bearing and it seems to be ok, and most the install kits that I have found include the gimble. If I can get the install kit and not have to buy the bearing then it should save me a good chunk of money.

Also, if anyone has a Mercruiser Alpha One Gen 2 alignment tool that is just sitting around and they want to sell it, that would be awesome! Just send me a PM. If not any recommendations on what alignment tool to buy? They seem to range from $30 to $125 depending on the brand, not sure if one is better than the other.

All advice is welcomed!

MC, Before you use the alignment bar, get a one inch bar about 24 to 36 inch long and use that to see if the mounts need to be changed. That way you can tell if you need to raise or lower drastically and the alignment bar doesn't get stuck :facepalm:.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

MC, Before you use the alignment bar, get a one inch bar about 24 to 36 inch long and use that to see if the mounts need to be changed. That way you can tell if you need to raise or lower drastically and the alignment bar doesn't get stuck :facepalm:.

My motor is the Mercruiser 3.0 with the front motor mount and the 2 rear are on the housing that bolts the the transom plate. Would this still apply? Either way, I have my fingers crossed for a simple alignment (knock on wood) since i actually did not have to cut out the front motor mount, I could clearly see when I opened it up that it had been replaced and had zero water damage, it was actually glassed and sealed pretty good. Since I had access to the back side of it, I did put 4 layers of 1708 on back and will do the same on the front and sides when I get to them.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Me I would cuss myself a while. The put 3 more layers on the outside. Leave the inside with one layer since the tank fits. And like you said mental note. Don't do that again.

After checking it out a bit closer tonight, this is what I’m going to do, it fits a little snug but it will work. Even with just 1 layer of 1708 that is more than the factory put on it, I will still be able to put down gelcoat this way also. It this was a bigger boat then ya, I probably would do it different but it’s a 6 person and is going to be solid. I will make the tank accessible and check it after a few times out on the water to see if it looks like trouble, if there is then I can have a tank done that fits the area just perfect.

I really appreciate all the advise you guys have been giving me, makes it so much easier to make a decision when others are sharing their experiences.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

I made good progress tonight, so much easier to get things done when you’re not swimming in your own sweat! All Filets are done, and I got the first layer of 1708 tabbing done everywhere. Also got all the second (and third for the fuel bay) tabbing cut, rolled up, marked (cause I will forget what it’s for!), and staged for tomorrow night! I even dug the ski locker out and marked the supports on the stringer where they will attach. I figure it’s best to get all the tabbing done, cut the deck and fit, just in case I need to make some adjustments, install deck cleats, cap the stringers with 1708, then install the deck.

Not it sure the proper order for capping and installing the deck cleats though, Friscoboater attaches his deck cleats after he capped the stringers but I figured they would be stronger(and easier to glass) if I attached the cleats before. Of course I would cut the cleat with as much of an angle as possible so I get a nice surface to glass the 1708 onto. Any opinions on this approach or is it better to attach cleats after with PB and marine sealant?

 

[kcassells]

It'll be easier to glass the stringers and bulkheads with attaching the cleats IMHO.

 

[chevymaher]

I had mine on and glassed before the stringers went in.

 

[kcassells]

Chev,
I thought you put your cleats on after you installed the stringers.

 

[52FordF2]

The one inch alignment bar is just a slimmer version of the true alignment bar. Just slide it thru the gimbel bearing then into the spline bushing on the back of the motor. Then you can check if the motor needs to be raised or lowered.

 

[chevymaher]

Chev,
I thought you put your cleats on after you installed the stringers.

Are we talking the wood at the top of the stringers for screwing the deck to. If not disregard last transmission.

Here I glued screwed them shaped the bottoms so the glass would mold around them. Glassed the stringers then put them in.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

Are we talking the wood at the top of the stringers for screwing the deck to. If not disregard last transmission.

Here I glued screwed them shaped the bottoms so the glass would mold around them. Glassed the stringers then put them in.

Yes Chevy, that is what I was talking about. I already have my stringers tabbed to the hull but I was thinking the same thing that you guys have said. I will attach them to the stingers then finish the glassing, they will also have about a 45 degree angle so I am not trying to glass two 90 degree angles with 1708 and ending up with huge air pockets. It will be a nice smooth transition that my roller will have no issue with, cleats will end up being 3 inches attached to the stringer and 2 1/4 facing the outside to be glassed.

I think it will work out nicely doing it this way and ensure a water tight assembly. I will get some updated pictures tonight to post for you guys, weather is still pretty nice out so I hope to make just as much progress as last night.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

The one inch alignment bar is just a slimmer version of the true alignment bar. Just slide it thru the gimbel bearing then into the spline bushing on the back of the motor. Then you can check if the motor needs to be raised or lowered.

Could this be something as simple as a 1/2 breaker bar or does it need to be perfectly round?

 

[chevymaher]

Could this be something as simple as a 1/2 breaker bar or does it need to be perfectly round?

I actually used a piece of electrical conduit for this. It was the right size.

 

[MC_What have I done?!]

I actually used a piece of electrical conduit for this. It was the right size.

Ok, now I understand! Sorry, I’m a bit slow sometimes ! Not using it to do any alignment, just to make sure you’re not so far off that you couldn’t hit it with a hand grenade.