1992 Skimmer 18' Flat Bottom Skiff Restoration

[studioq]

I used approx 3 quarts. + or - - There was adequate squeeze out along the top, bottom and port sides and a little less than I wanted on the lower starboard side. At the time the picture was taken I had already run a spoon over it. Before that - there was still some built up. I didn't have to waste any though. I was really trying to cut it as close as I could. I just didn't see much point in having tons and tons come out - only to be discarded or have to be sanded off. I'm going to back fill (inject) the small portion of the lower starboard side with some PB and then filet the whole thing officially. Then it's getting glassed to the hull Completely and finished with gel coat.. Even below deck - as that was the way it was before.

 

[Woodonglass]

Sounds like a Plan!!! 3 qts is just about standard for transoms of this size. NICE WORK!!! Looking forward to seeing the Fillets and tabbing.eace:

 

[studioq]

Below is a more in depth description of my process for replacing the transom.

After removing the transom I was left with the very thin and considerably damaged outer skin of the hull:



I sanded it down to reveal all of the drill holes and a few areas where I unintentionally cut through the hull while removing the transom:



I applied a thin coat of Merton's Hull and Deck Putty to smooth it out and fill the holes and gaps. I extended that putty down to the hull bottom where it meets the transom as there were some drill holes right on the edge:



Then came a layer of 38ox stitch-mat to reinforce the outer skin of the transom and plug the holes and gaps:





And a layer of 6oz E-Cloth to tab the transom skin to the hull:



All of this was done after making sure the stern was level to remove any flex from the rear:



Then I started to fabricate the transom:





After pre-coating the "B" side of the boards and allowing the resin to kick - I added a layer of 38oz stitch-mat and a layer of CSM to one side of the laminate:



Then I added another layer of CSM to the other panel and placed the two panels together:





I only applied enough pressure to get the resin to ooze. I didn't want to squeeze it all out.



About half way through I flipped it over to allow gravity to do some work:



After the resin had set I took my angle grinder and cut off the excess fiberglass from in between the laminate:




And then checked it against a straight edge prior to moving forward. If it were too far off - or had twisted during the setup I would have had to start over:



Then I pre-coated it with resin and allowed it to kick again:




After which I applied a layer of CSM followed by a layer of 1708:






After it set I cut off the excess glass again:







Then for a test fit:







Then I pre-fit my vices and rehearsed my process for mounting the transom:





Then I went ahead and applied the PB and set the transom in place for good:





After letting it sit overnight I removed the vices and now I'm ready to move on with more filleting and glassing the transom to the hull:




Hopefully this will someday help another noob get the job done with confidence...

 

[studioq]

I'm looking for design opinions/suggestions about how to approach the cross-members which are really nothing more than cleats for attaching the deck - and maybe some support for the decking. But when properly foamed there's not a lot of need for them. I'm wondering if I should go with a few bulkheads and less wood. Or do I repeat this design? What I'd like to do is use less screws and more fiberglass to secure things.

These were all screwed into the stringers and created optimal points for rot to start when the water got in... One of the reasons the boat waterlogged so bad was due to the lack of bulkheads - which would have slowed the damage or kept it from taking over the length of the craft.

 

[Rickmerrill]

I'd repeat the original design, they probably had their reasons and a marine engineer might have designed it. If you get everything sealed up properly and take care of her it should last for decades. Now, how to approach pouring foam in those long channels between stringers, I don't know!

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I agree with Rick. The problem is not the screws, rather it is in the how they were used (unsealed). I would also repeat the design as I found it since you are keeping everything as it was. There is a thread by Oops on how to pour the foam in the plastic shrink wrap so it never gets water logged again. You might want to take a look at it and decide for yourself if it is worth the extra work.

 

[studioq]

DeepBlue2010 - thanks and get better with that rotator cuff. Chiropractic got me back on my feet. I went there before a doctor.
Rickmerrill - I've been letting the brain work overtime in the background on a good solution for the pour foam. When I come to it - I'll post it here.

 

[Woodonglass]

YUP^^ Absolutely nothing wrong with the design. It's all about care and maintenance. Foaming shouldn't be an issue if you have multiple pour holes.

 

[studioq]

Well - I'm intending to go ahead and re-do the cross members.. But I'll probably glass them in or PB them in rather than screw them. I'll save the screws for the deck.

 

[studioq]

And while tedious - I think I'm going to pour the foam one block at a time with a temporary top and sidewall on the compartment - and then pour very precise measurements of foam. As the foam begins to rise toward the top I'll place the top on and remove the sidewall - allowing the foam to expand out once it has fully expanded up. I know I can get this all done by cutting vent holes in the deck.. But I'd rather not cut them. To me it's just as much work to do it the way I'd like to do it - and I don't end up with a bunch of holes through my brand new deck. I'll just work down the hull one section at a time. Hell - everything else is taking forever. Why not just get it right.

 

[Woodonglass]

I think you'll find that working with the foam is a bit of a hassle. Once it starts to Kick...It goes FAST! It flows where IT wants to and NOT where YOU want it to and it's NEVER consistent with it's expansion rate. Each batch is different. Temps, humidity etc.. make a lot of difference. You can try your method and I wish you luck but don't be surprise if it doesn't work as expected.

 

[studioq]

Yep - I know I'm asking for it.. I'll probably relent in the future when the time comes.. Right now it's a bit of talking out my stink-hole because I'm not even close to that point.... :0

 

[Woodonglass]

LOL:lol: I've N E V E R done A N Y T H I N G like T H A T before!!!!:facepalm:

 

[Rickmerrill]

Maybe I shouldn't have brought up the foaming yet. I have to force myself to focus on the next step or the enormity of it all drives me nuts! Wood are you thinking that pouring a whole channel at a time would be the way to go?

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, since you asked...Yup!!! I think you'll get a better "Fill" that way. You WILL need a helper to do it right but with an assistant and proper technique you can get your hull 98% filled with good compression and those 3" holes you cut will be filled in and NOT be an issue. That should not worry you in the least. When you put em back in properly with the foam supporting them and the PB surrounding them you're deck will be as strong as if you'd never cut em out. Like you said, you've got a long way to go so, I'd put this on the back burner for now and we'll cross that bridge when we get there!!!:eagerness:

 

[studioq]

All major angle grinding done. As is the normal right of passage there is one major hole in the bottom of the hull now. Be me no scared. I've got plenty of glass and resin.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Onward brave soul!

 

[GT1000000]

Hello Q,
Just got done reading through your build and I gotta say, Super Job so far...
You have done your homework and it shows in the quality work you have done.
From the looks of it you are building a battleship and that's a beautiful thing!
I'd love to hang around and see how this skiff comes back to better than new condition.
All the best,
GT1M

 

[studioq]

GT1000000 - thanks for the kind words of support. And if anyone is keeping count - it is now 2 big holes in the bottom of the hull

 

[studioq]

Oops!! Like I said. No scared. It's much better than lighting it on fire. I will certainly photo the repairs