1993 Chaparral Gemini 190: Chronicles of a New Boat Owner (Deck Rebuild) [SPLASHED June 2018]

[bpounds1991]

I called up a local lumber yard and they don’t have “ACX” but they have “AC” for 33$ at 1/2”, 45$ at 3/4”. I can only assume that it?s the same lol.

 

[oldrem]

From wooden boat forum: "The primary difference between AC & ACX will be the quality of the core veneers and the precision of their layup. Fewer knots and voids is better when it comes to allowing moisture infiltration and rot pockets as the boat sees some use & abuse."

 

[bpounds1991]

At 9$ more than the Radiata Pine, I may just stick with the RP if that?s the case. If not I?ll just continue my searching tonight lol. I?m getting together the rest of the material list, as well as possibly starting the build of a homemade motor mount stand this weekend. The question remains is what to do with the wall behind the row of seating and bow area, as that?s the same material that covers the transom?

 

[zool]

The X stands for exterior adhesive used in the layup, its what you want....

 

[bpounds1991]

Well that's good to know zool thank you very much! I just went through the specs for that Lowe's Radiata Pine and it is indeed ACX/Exterior so I think I've found the winner.

 

[bpounds1991]

I?ll be resuming the demo in the morning, would anyone possibly be able to help with the bow/aft sections that I pointed out in the YouTube video?

 

[zool]

Hey bpounds, most boats are joined with a seam under the rubrail, and the only way to get full access to the sub structure is to remove the cap section by removing the rubrail, and removing the screws or rivets that hold cap and base together, and separating the two halves....its a little tricky on the bowriders cuz the cap is deep and there is some cutting.

There is another way, but it involves alot of cutting and fairing to get it looking right again

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Makes it easy to do the transom and stringers..

 

[bpounds1991]

Oh wow. In terms of the rejoining the two halves if I were to just remove the rub rail, what would the process be (in a nutshell)?

 

[bpounds1991]

Well, I just watched the removal process...think I?m a little sick to my stomach now..

 

[zool]

The cap will go right back on if you support the hull properly while you rebuild the stringers.....its not that hard at all, just looks intimidating.....i wont sugar coat the grinding tho......

 

[bpounds1991]

zool What are your best recommendations for a novice to support the hull during stringer rebuilding? Started looking into hull cradles and debated going right back to sleep lol. Also have my plan for the motor stand from one of the users on here, will look at trying to knock that out this weekend.

 

[zool]

If ur boat is currently on a bunk trailer, you can just add additional supports for the sides to keep the hull from becoming wider then the cap, if its on blocks, then it needs support along the keel too, once the cap is off, take measurements of the lip where the cap meets the hull and be sure that stays the same, some notched 2x4's across the hull side lips can hold it there til the new stringer grid is in....depending on how the hull is built, it doesnt always need alot of support but best to be safe.

heres an example
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[bpounds1991]

I see, looks to be a good bit easier than what I had in mind of doing lol. I think I may end up just spending 100$ or so and buying an engine hoist since I've seen a few for sale around me in the last few days. Would make life a heck of a lot easier dealing with the cap as well as the O/B.

 

[Woodonglass]

Zool's advice is Spot On!!! As stated a bunk trailer is fine and the wood bracing works great to. I'd also recommend using nylon straps encircling the hull. The MOST important task is...Taking measurements and Pictures and LOT'S of them prior to ANY demo work. Then at the time of installing any new glassed work double check that the measurements are exactly as they were before. If you do that...Won't be any issue with getting the Cap back on.

 

[bpounds1991]

Thanks zool and Woodonglass, will be picking up a shop crane before the week is over for the cap and O/B removal, as well as starting the framework on the hull and building the motor stand. Busy weekend but I'm trying to get this done within 4 months, no better time to start than now I suppose

 

[bpounds1991]

Picked up the caster wheels from work for the stand, I think that saves about half the price of the materials for it lol. Called Harbor Freight and they do have a 1 ton folding shop crane for 135$ (with a coupon), sonill be getting that today after my wife hesitantly gave me the green light. The overall goal is to get the O/B off this weekend, and after finding a few videos on how to store the top cap I?ll be looking to get that squared away by Wednesday. It was a depressing shot to the morale to hear about the need to remove it yesterday, but I?ve got a timeline and want to get this demo rolling.

 

[tpothen]

Be sure to measure how much lift you need to pull the outboard, the 1 ton lift doesn't have the height that the 2 ton has.

 

[oldrem]

I picked up the 1 ton for mine last weekend. Hope you have metric wrenches, although 1/2 of the caster nuts required a 13mm while exactly half required a 9/16. The bolt heads were all 13mm

 

[bpounds1991]

Woodonglass, would you possibly be able to post a picture of what the boat looks like strapped and boarded?

 

[bpounds1991]

Thank you tpothen, the 1 ton cranes have a max height of 84 inches? while the 2 ton cranes have a max of 89?. I checked some other models out and they all seem to be pretty similar within that range. The price difference from the 1 ton to the 2 ton is only 25$, might as well **** my wife off more today