1993 Chaparral Gemini 190: Chronicles of a New Boat Owner (Deck Rebuild) [SPLASHED June 2018]

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
Yeah, I spoke with the husband of a coworker Thursday night about it and he was explaining the importance of the bow/aft support more than the middle of the boat. I'll be measuring before the top cap and motor come off next weekend (if everything goes smoothly).
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
No Title

Here?s a couple more pictures of what I ended up doing with the bracing, think I stood looking at it for about 15 minutes deciding if I needed to add the stakes or not.
 

Attachments

  • photo281740.jpeg
    photo281740.jpeg
    159.8 KB · Views: 2
  • photo281741.jpeg
    photo281741.jpeg
    206.8 KB · Views: 2

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
Plans for this coming weekend: Top cap removal and O/B removal, enlisting the help of my father in law to help with this so it should be fun lol
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,137
What do you have for lifting equipment ? Gantry, hoist, etc?

As far as support for the hull . . . Bunk trailers are best, along with some support at the keel of the bow area, as bunk usually cover about 2/3 of the hull length. Not sure the support along the sides of the hull is going to do much. You need to make sure you have support under the main 'V' section of the hull.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
tpenfield I have a 2 ton shop crane for my lifting equipment. Along with the straps on the ends I thought about getting jack stands to place under the back sections where the wood is weakest off the back. What I was also thinking was running the straps over as well as under the wood, which would pull the back 1/4 of the running boards into the hull.
 
Last edited:

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,738
Tighter the better. If you strap over the hull for support then you will go nuts having to skip around them with all the work going on.Lots of ways to do it.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
With the straps I was planning on laying those across just a foot into the boat from bow/stern. I?ll see if I can draw a picture of what I have in mind after I take a couple more pictures of what I currently have.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
No Title

I think this does more justice to the idea I have in my head lol. Supporting against flex in the back will be a ratchet strap with a jack stand on each side. In the front the ratchet strap will be pulling the 2x4 into the hull to maintain that angle, alongside another strap that will just be bracing the hull. At least this is the idea theoretically :)
 

Attachments

  • photo281794.JPG
    photo281794.JPG
    110.1 KB · Views: 1
  • photo281795.JPG
    photo281795.JPG
    95.9 KB · Views: 1
  • photo281797.JPG
    photo281797.JPG
    162.9 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
So I found out we have a somewhat local boat restoration shop, ended up calling just to see what a gut job like this would cost. Holy moly he said 1200-2000$ in materials, 4,000-6,000$ rough ballpark for the whole job. I had a little laugh out of that that?s for sure. Not a whole lot of progress going this week, it?s been raining pretty good and will be up until the middle of Friday. I had the intentions of trying to start removing the screws of rivets to the top cap but that may be put off until Saturday morning when my father-in-law comes over. Should be a big/productive day.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,728
The materials definitely seem about right.....labor seems a bit low for a decapping IMO. Not sure what the going rate is, but two guys making $20.00 per hour would be $1600 labor alone per week. I'm guessing the boat shop is charging more than $40.00 per hour labor. :noidea:

The quality will definitely be better when you are working for yourself, at a pace where you can pay attention to details.
 

kcon

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Dec 10, 2016
Messages
303
I'm so deep in my own restoration you couldn't pay me $4k in labor to do this crap again lol
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
Oh yeah I don?t think I would take it anywhere unless it was an absurdly low number, even then I?d question the work lol. It was good to hear it though, now my wife knows I HAVE to do it ;). I?m just more ready to get this show on the road than anything, I feel like every day o have to sit around and wait to get the motor/cap off just keeps prolonging the end but then again...I have a long road ahead lol. I spoke with my wife on where I?d be restoring it at, and I think I?m going to park it in the garage once I get most of the gut work done. The boat sticks out about 2 feet outside the garage, so I?ll most likely enclose it with a tarp and (CAREFULLY) heat the garage through the winter to do the poly work.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,713
That?s what I did. I lucked out and had a mild winter - at least the first part. Just be smart with the heaters. Don?t use the heaters when you have a bunch of acetone or solvents out, and check on the flammability of everything you use.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
I?ve heard about those types of horror stories that?s for sure lol. I?m in Georgia and the winters aren?t too too bad, but I?d like to attempt to do in the garage at least.
 

bpounds1991

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 3, 2017
Messages
321
So I've been pondering whether or not to go Polyester vs. Vinyl Ester. I know Epoxy is (budget speaking) out of the picture, but at only 50$ more/5 gallons would it be worth it to do the rebuild with Vinyl Ester instead? Another question I have on the topic is: Do you end up using more fiberglass if you use that instead of polyester resin?
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,713
I don?t think you will use more or less vinylester than poly. I thoght about it when I did my boat and I couldn?t come up with sufficient justification for he extra cost. What advantages of vinylester make you want to consider it?
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,137
I used VE (instead of Poly) for my Formula 242 and 330 repairs . . .

The stuff has the following advantages:

Better adhesion
Longer working time before it starts to harden

Disadvantages:
Fumes are horrible
It tastes horrible too :D

So, VE is kind of in between Poly and epoxy in terms of adhesion and working time.
 
Top