1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

[beta]

On the pedestal seats would they not be bolted thru with a t nut? No expert, pure ignorance here.

The bases are 2 - 3/4" marine plywood (left overs from my stringers) glued together. I'm going to use 1.5" screws going down into the base and put 5200 on them. The holes in the pedestal are 3/8" so there will be 6 heavy duty screws holding it down. I thought about doing the bolt through but decided the screws would be more than enough.

The original design had a steel plate under the deck with bolts coming up from under the plate. It was heavy duty but those holes in the deck catch up with you eventually, at least in the case of this boat it did.

 

[Pmt133]

I thought about doing something similar at first. But I was having nightmares about screwing it up and having to do a major transom fix so I dropped the $25 on the guide.

I only had a half inch bit on hand so I prayed when I did it. Ran a bur through one hole to clean it slightly. But if the assembly slid all the way on by hand, I figured it was good. Knock on wood, no issues... yet.

 

[beta]

Dry fitting the gimbal housing and the transom plate are coming up on the agenda. New gaskets are on their way. Fingers crossed...

I was also looking at the drain plug. It appears there is some kind of sealing material was around it but it wasn't a gasket of any kind. Is it just sealed with 5200? or something like permatex form a gasket sealant?

 

[Pmt133]

More than likely for a brass garboard. Silicon, 5200,4200, boat life... anything they had open at the time most likely.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I was too cheap to buy the drill guide so I drilled a block of wood on my press the same size as the bit and used that. (obviously making sure it was square first.

I did that, too. Worked very well.

 

[beta]

Got all the floor mounted items for seat pedestals, battery, hydro pump, etc glassed in over the weekend.







I've decided to use 1" square aluminum extrusions to build a frame for the sidewalls next to the engine and the frame that holds up the cushioned hatch above the engine compartment. To secure the bottom, I added a 1" high piece of the 3/4" plywood to the deck. The extrusion will go just to the inside of the wood piece. I'll screw through the wood and into the extrusion horizontally to secure the bottom.

 

[Pmt133]

Looking great

 

[beta]

Last night was gel coat time. Covered everything except the bilge and transom which I'll do next. Did 3 coats, mostly with a 9" roller. There are a couple of spots I'm not 100% happy with which I'll sand and touch up when I do the bilge. Overall, pleased with the outcome. Plan is to put SeaDek on floor. Not sure if I'm going to do anything more on the side walls right now. My plan is to redo the side panels (and other upholstery work) during the next off-season so will probably just leave the walls as-is with the gel coat for now.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Looks good.

 

[redneck joe]

You may decide going minimal on upholstery is the way to go.

 

[beta]

Starting to think more about the engine now that the inside is getting close to done.

One thing I'm looking at is adding an oil drain hose. I'm assuming the idea is to connect it to the oil pan in the drain plug hole, then run it through the garboard drain to empty the oil when changing. I see a couple on Amazon and they are all 18" long which is long enough in my case to reach the drain but they look too thick to fit through it. I'm going to remove the drain plug to check the size but I believe it is a 12mm. Searching online I see a few hoses that are $100+ which seams ridiculous for a hose. I guess I'll order the $16 hose and give it a try first but am I missing something in this setup?

I'm also planning to change the plugs and wires while it's out. It ran well when I took it out of service for the restore so I'm hesitant to start messing with it too much. Anything I should consider doing while it's out of the boat, especially low hanging fruit?

 

[Pmt133]

350 correct? 12mm should fit the hole. Its a 1/2 pipe which is about 7/8 inch in diameter or so if memory serves.

I'd inspect the oil pan carefully. The steel ones can and do rot out if you have one. Engine mounts if theyre original too I'd replace.

 

[redneck joe]

Can you access the oil filter easily? When I had mine moved it was wonderful

 

[JASinIL2006]

Starting to think more about the engine now that the inside is getting close to done.

One thing I'm looking at is adding an oil drain hose. I'm assuming the idea is to connect it to the oil pan in the drain plug hole, then run it through the garboard drain to empty the oil when changing. I see a couple on Amazon and they are all 18" long which is long enough in my case to reach the drain but they look too thick to fit through it. I'm going to remove the drain plug to check the size but I believe it is a 12mm. Searching online I see a few hoses that are $100+ which seams ridiculous for a hose. I guess I'll order the $16 hose and give it a try first but am I missing something in this setup?

I'm also planning to change the plugs and wires while it's out. It ran well when I took it out of service for the restore so I'm hesitant to start messing with it too much. Anything I should consider doing while it's out of the boat, especially low hanging fruit?

I would absolutely get a drain hose. When I had my engine out, a couple people talked me out of installing one, and I've regretted it ever since. Oil changes would be so much simpler with a drain hose.

And if your engine doesn't have the remote oil filter located in a convenient spot, I'd absolutely install one of those, too.

One thing that makes winterizing the boat simpler is to install a nipple and drain plug on the big U-tube at the front of the engine. It's much easier to drain by unscrewing the plug than it is to wrestle the hose off its fitting every year.