1995 Larson 174 SEI Complete Rebuild

[Mechanicalmike08]

Well I am out of resin, only got about 20oz left. But I placed my new order with everything I should need to finish construction.
Last night I cut the last two little wings that will be nothing more than were I stop the pieces that will go up under the bow so it is a manageable size. Tonight I got those PB'd in place (this is how I should have supported the stringers).


Then it was on to the motor area, the entire area got a layer of CSM and then 18oz cloth. While still wet I set my cut section of 2in PVC that will protect my motor mount and bulkheads.


Then mixed up a big batch of PB and covered the motor mount to fill in any gaps/ imperfections and stuck that in place making sure I got ooze out everywhere. Smoothed out the ooze and filled in the front of the PVC where it meet the bulk head.




Did the same for the bulkhead between the ski locker and gas tank section
.

Pretty happy, whish I had enough to finish the motor mount but I guess it will have to wait. Hopefully going to start cutting the deck section out now. Then all I have to finish on the structure is one more cloth section for the roller support, tab those little wings and cover those and the rear bulkhead.

 

[dezmond]

Looking really good. Sucks when you run out of something looking forward to seeing the deck going down

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

Looking really good. Sucks when you run out of something looking forward to seeing the deck going down

So am I, US Composites must have been busy cuz I placed the order Tuesday and just got confirmation today.

Been a busy weekend working on the in laws recently new to them bar. Reconfigured the bar, new live edge tops and I poured all the epoxy top. Also laid about 500 sqft of new vinyl flooring. I'll post a pic when I'm not in the middle of nowhere

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

Here was this weekends project, the picture does not due the gloss justice:



Tonight I got the first two pieces of the floor cut out. Man did it feel good to stand on it at deck height an see it. Menards was oversold of ACX so I had to run around looking for a sheet. Still waiting on my shipment form USC.



On a side note does anyone know why it wont let me edit my previous posts? I use to be able to but now there is no link to edit the old post.

 

[kcassells]

Looking good Mike and yup it does feel a whole lot better to be able to stand on decking. If I recall in regards to
editing you have like 3 minutes then bam dats it.

 

[AShipShow]

Looking good! And KC is right, you can only edit a post within a few minutes... then it's off to the library of Congress to be archived for eternity.
:mad-new:

 

[oldrem]

Nice looking bar

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

Nice looking bar

It came out real nice, I don't own it just laid the floors and did the bar tops for the in laws.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Boat is coming along... it feels good to stand on a deck again, doesn’t it!

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

My shipment finally came on Tuesday, ready to get back at it. Spent Wednesday and tonight cutting the last of the deck pieces. Man ACX is turning in to gold around here, hard to find it on the shelves. I've used more than I thought I would because of the size of the pieces but should be able to make my rear bench from the scraps. Everything is sanded and ready for the backside to get done tomorrow.





I have an area near the front I will need to do some build up and shaping once the floor is down for good. I plan to fill the gap to seal it up with PB but then need/ want to use some foam to build up and blend this area. That's what was there from the factory i just ground it all out to make it easier to match up. Can I use great stuff then shape it and I will glass over it? Or is there something better?

 

[JASinIL2006]

I used PB to fill the gap and tabbing over that.

 

[chevymaher]

I did not tab the sides first. Then flotation foamed under the deck. That allowed the foam to ooze out the edges. Reason I did it that way was to make sure there was no air pockets. I did use great stuff in a couple places. The skii locker floor where it did not quite fill.

The foam says you can glass right over it on the direction of the flotation foam. I did it yes the glass works well over either so if you so choose you can use the foam to shape the edges.

I used a saw to shape the edges when it was still soft doing mine. Deck to hull.

So it works and is a option if you so choose to do it.

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

I used PB to fill the gap and tabbing over that.

the picture doesn't show it the best, from the edge of the wood I would have to fill with a lot of PB. Probably a qt to qt and half on each side in just that small location. The rest of the edges will be straight PB and tabbing. But the factory did a blend out and radius with foam to make the transition. I was hoping to use great stuff to preserve my flotation foam and cost.

got all the undersides soaking now, going to glass later today.

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

Got all the bottom sides coated with one layer of csm, even got two pieces of the material for the cleats soaking in the leftover resin.

Tomorrow I plan on pulling it out and prepping again so I can finish the last bulkhead up and overs and the motor mount, and blow out the darn garage. Man its dusty from cutting the deck and different pieces.

 

[kcassells]

Sorry for the bad news but great foam is not water proof like marine foam.
One review comment below but you can research it further.

https://sailingforums.com/threads/w...of-the-classsic-2-parts-expanding-foam.34203/

Hello ssrs!



The idea you're pursuing is exactly correct ... seal the moisture out to prevent water damage.



Unfortunately, Great Stuff does not list waterproof as one of the properties of this product.



In almost all their descriptions, the manufacturer says "expands to take the shape of cracks and voids to form an airtight, water-resistant bond ..."

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

But marine foam isn't waterproof either judging by all of us who find water logged foam under our decks. Especially after I cut the skin away to shape it. Wouldn't the act of me glassing over the foam after I shape it form the water proof barier?

or is PB my only real option.

 

[kcassells]

Well to some degree you are correct. With gs once you sand the top it's barriere to water resistance is lost, it it is more suspect to water intrusion than marine foam on all levels including shaping. Look at it this way gs foam will last a week and mf will last a year. The score is to never let water intrude unless of course there is a drainage system in place. To date there is no system to promote drainage and aeration. The dual combination would preserve the mf.
wog

 

[kcassells]

I'd go pb.

 

[chevymaher]

Floatation foam is water proof at first. Water freezing against it breaks down the closed foam and then it will absorb water. Then it absorbs more and the process repeats. On my boat anywhere it was soilid foam with no gaps. It was dry. If there was a gap in the foam it filled with water.

Once you tabb the edges it is waterproof. The reason boats get water under the deck is they manufacturar leaves raw open wood everywhere for water to soak into and pass through.

 

[Mechanicalmike08]

Got itchy again today, rolled it out and prepped all the newer glass and cleaned up some high spots. Rolled it back and let her warm up then I got the little wings fully tabbed in 1708 and then up and over with CSM.

Tomorrow should be the first coat of gelcoat in the ski-locker, then tab in the motor mount.