1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

FYI....I also bought the 23/32 for the same reasons.....wait until you get that floor and the foam...it will feel like concrete!!! I think anytime you ever have a boat with a soft spot....it is engraved into our brains to "go" with thicker floor!! lol

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

FYI....I also bought the 23/32 for the same reasons.....wait until you get that floor and the foam...it will feel like concrete!!! I think anytime you ever have a boat with a soft spot....it is engraved into our brains to "go" with thicker floor!! lol

Thanks for yours and Yacht DR's posts....

Was getting ready to dry fit my deck but Tropical Depression Beryl is giving us a watery downfall before she heads back to the Atlantic. Though my boat is covered with a tarp :/ wish i had dry storage.

I guess I will see how my drain holes work out and if my 2 layers of 1708 with occassional air pockets will withstand the 2-4 inches rain expected.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Can someone tell me where the edge of my plywood deck is supposed to stop. Spot 1 or Spot 2.

Yes, this is and old pic. Havent uploaded new pics yet.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Take a straight edge across your stringers to your hull..thats where its gonna fit in.

But it looks like it was at location 1 on the previous install...

YD.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Take a straight edge across your stringers to your hull..thats where its gonna fit in.

But it looks like it was at location 1 on the previous install...

YD.

I thought (location 1) too but even with a straight edge, the plywood would simply not lay on the stringers. So i cut the deck to lay just a little higher than (location 2).

This weekend I cut the deck out, put 1 coat of poly resin, waited an hour or so then put 1 layer of 1.5 ounce CSM on bottom. It is dry and rock solid. I noticed that it absorbed a lot more resin than the 1708.

This evening, I am going to put PL on top of the stringers and glue and screw the deck down to the 2x2 cleats i screwed/glued to the stringers.

The question I have now for you or anyone that answers, what are my option for 2 1/2-3 inch gap from where the deck lays to (location1). I understand that you should use a poly PB mixture. Becase I have such a huge gap, could I do the following:
a. caulk the seam (where plywood meets hull) with PL, then
b. Lay down poor man’s play dough... http://www.unclejohns.com/jonboat/builders/empson/
c. cover playdough seam with 1 layer of 1708
c. Then fiberglass with 2 layers of 1.5 CSM across the whole deck
e. gel coat deck.

I guess the main area of concern is the poor man's play dough, but as you can see from that website, it worked for him.

Comments and thoughts welcome

 

[jaybeava]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Can someone tell me where the edge of my plywood deck is supposed to stop. Spot 1 or Spot 2.

Yes, this is and old pic. Havent uploaded new pics yet.

Maddog, it would be a little below spot 1. In my pic there is still a tiny bit of decking wood leftover on the left side. I can measure it tomorrow evening if ya need. How high is your deck sitting on the stringers?

 

[jaybeava]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Are you foaming after installing the decking?

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Maddog, it would be a little below spot 1. In my pic there is still a tiny bit of decking wood leftover on the left side. I can measure it tomorrow evening if ya need. How high is your deck sitting on the stringers?

I cut the deck to lay just a little above the stringers. In some places its flat against the stringers while othe places it is off about a 1/2 inch.

I will deal with one way or another. THe only downsideis that i have anywhere form a 1-3 inch gap around the boat. I am thinking about using poor man's play doug (link in previous post) to fill and smooth out these edge. Then I will come along behind it after it dries with some 1708 before I lay to layers of 1.5 CSM, and gel coat on the deck

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Are you foaming after installing the decking?

I recall reading other people’s post and being discomfited when they didn’t upload pictures. Not I am in that same ‘boat’ (no pun intended). I need to upload pictures.
By the time I screwed/glued 2x2 cleats to the side of the stringers, the space that remained was very minimal at best. I am thinking about just stuffing the empty space with the cut up pink foam board I already have. I just can’t convince myself that a few inches of foam on the outside edge of my stringers is going to make that much of a difference.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

As I was preparing to screw down the deck, the skies opened up poured out behemoth rain….even though weather.com called for sunny skies.

I did have time to get the gas tank in which fit nice, snug, and level.

DOes anybody have any thoughts of using poor boy’s play do recipe to fill in the seam around the edge where the deck meets hull.

I understand that you should use a poly PB mixture. Becase I have such a huge gap, could I do the following:
a. caulk the seam (where plywood meets hull) with PL, then
b. Lay down poor man’s play dough... http://www.unclejohns.com/jonboat/builders/empson/
c. cover playdough seam with 1 layer of 1708
d. Then fiberglass with 2 layers of 1.5 CSM across the whole deck
e. gel coat deck.

I guess the main area of concern is the poor man's play dough, but as you can see from that website, it worked for him.

Comments and thoughts welcome

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I wouldn?t do that if I were you. I have been around this forum for couple of years now and I have never read a recommendation from any of the experts to do it this way. The guy in the link you provided ? in my opinion ? missed the main point in the reply he got from uncle something. The main ingredient wasn?t the flour, it was the polyester resin which is combatable with the resin you will be using on the fiberglass. The flour, Cabosil or wood dust are only fillers to add thickness to the resin. Few things came to my mind when I read his recipe

1. It is dough made from organic materials (i.e. vegetable oil) pretty much like pizza, so will it rot under the glass?
2. If so, would it cause the wood it is touching to rot as well?
3. Is it compatible with polyester resin? In other words, will it have any impact on the curing characteristics of polyester resin?

I don?t have the answers for these questions nor the time to experiment, so ? personally ? I would not take this risk.
I am speculating that the size of the boat that guy was building made him comfortable improvising such an unorthodox way to save few bucks. There is not much to risk to begin with. If you want a simpler alternative to Peanut Butter, you can fill this gap with PL Construction Adhesives. Give it 48 hours to cure, sand and glass.

I will be very interested to hear from the guys here what they think about this.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I wouldn’t do that if I were you. I have been around this forum for couple of years now and I have never read a recommendation from any of the experts to do it this way. The guy in the link you provided – in my opinion – missed the main point in the reply he got from uncle something. The main ingredient wasn’t the flour, it was the polyester resin which is combatable with the resin you will be using on the fiberglass. The flour, Cabosil or wood dust are only fillers to add thickness to the resin. Few things came to my mind when I read his recipe

1. It is dough made from organic materials (i.e. vegetable oil) pretty much like pizza, so will it rot under the glass?
2. If so, would it cause the wood it is touching to rot as well?
3. Is it compatible with polyester resin? In other words, will it have any impact on the curing characteristics of polyester resin?

I don’t have the answers for these questions nor the time to experiment, so – personally – I would not take this risk.
I am speculating that the size of the boat that guy was building made him comfortable improvising such an unorthodox way to save few bucks. There is not much to risk to begin with. If you want a simpler alternative to Peanut Butter, you can fill this gap with PL Construction Adhesives. Give it 48 hours to cure, sand and glass.

I will be very interested to hear from the guys here what they think about this.

It is actually quite funny to read what that guy did.

I have read some pretty unorthodox things people have done to save money. I guess putting pizza crust as a filler mechanism in your boat is plain silly. THe more I think about, the more ridiculous it sounds. What was I thinking....I wasn't huh!

Other than creating poly PB or using PL, there has to be another method out there that is just as effective that goes in like a paste and can be fiberglassed over. I have read where people used that canned spray foam.

I wouldnt second guess using the PB or PL but i have a 3 inch gap about a half inch deep in some places. In your scouring of the internet and theses forums, have you seen any other alternatives.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Yes, I read a book in which the author was using a foam strips to make the transition in a 90 degree angles, I will send you the name of the material later today when I come back home. The foam spray sounds like a good idea if it is combatable with ploy resin. To tell you the truth, I am now concerned with the 3 inch gap you mentioned. It seems to be awfully wide gap! Normally, it is something like ? or ? to avoid hard spots but nothing more. Did you cut wrong? Please try to post a picture.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Yes, I read a book in which the author was using a foam strips to make the transition in a 90 degree angles, I will send you the name of the material later today when I come back home. The foam spray sounds like a good idea if it is combatable with ploy resin. To tell you the truth, I am now concerned with the 3 inch gap you mentioned. It seems to be awfully wide gap! Normally, it is something like ? or ? to avoid hard spots but nothing more. Did you cut wrong? Please try to post a picture.

i know it is hard to visualize but I will lay the board down tonight to take a picture. It's not 3 inches all the way around just in a spot or two. THis is kinda how it looks until i upload the actual pic.

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Ok....in that last pic if you look forward from where you marked...you can see deck height. Those .stringers around the gas tank in th. at pic are wa y to low. I assumed this was the old before you finished removing? Looks like the stringers and bulkheads behind the foam have been cut down like you were remo. ving them. The deck should lay perfectly flat on all stringers/ bulkheads....otherwise your stringers and bulkheads are not level. As far as gap on the sides can you not just recut deck to remove gap? I would love to see some detailed pics on this.....as something is not adding up here.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I agree, something did not add up for me either. Maddog, are you sure your original deck ended here? Do you have a picture before the demolition?

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Look at the last pic ....see the foam and deck height? It is much higher than his current marking of deck height.

 

[maddog238]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

Ok guys, that pic is misleading. I was scratching my head looking at the foam placement too.

That area where the foam is at a raised floor area in front of the back to back chair. Bayliner raised the floor up so that the passenger and driver could set their feet on level ground. That is the raised area yall are looking at. In fact I just put the deck down. Give me a sec and I will upload a pic.

I found out the reason I couldn't get the floor to lay flat was because a bulkhead was too high. I trimmed the area and recapped it.everything is screwed down

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I am still puzzled by the fact that your deck sets flat on the stringers. The simple fact that you had a Ski locker makes me think that you had two levels of decks. A sub-deck that lay flat on the stringers to provide the floor for the ski locker and then the main deck that is lay flat of a group of bulk heads – that are measuring few inches higher than the sub deck and those are the bulk heads to carry the main deck.
This is a picture of my boat that demonstrates the point. Please keep in mind that I am not trying to argue with you, neither I claim more knowledge of your boat than you have. I am only trying to help by sharing my thoughts and thinking through the problem with you.

 

[jaybeava]

Re: 1996 Bayliner Capri (1952) Deck Restoration

I am still puzzled by the fact that your deck sets flat on the stringers. The simple fact that you had a Ski locker makes me think that you had two levels of decks. A sub-deck that lay flat on the stringers to provide the floor for the ski locker and then the main deck that is lay flat of a group of bulk heads – that are measuring few inches higher than the sub deck and those are the bulk heads to carry the main deck.
This is a picture of my boat that demonstrates the point. Please keep in mind that I am not trying to argue with you, neither I claim more knowledge of your boat than you have. I am only trying to help by sharing my thoughts and thinking through the problem with you.

Deep Blue, He is indeed correct. I'm working the same type of boat. The entire floor sits on the full stringer length (from transom to the cuddy entrance) and all three bulkheads are even with the stringer height. The raised portion is fwd of the seats in the driver/passenger position just as Maddog descibed. In my pic you can see the part of the remaining floor as well as the section of the raised decking. (the caption I noted in the pic was for something else.)