1996 OMC Cobra / Volvo SX gaskets

[Lpgc]

I worry about even using 25ftlbs torque on the nuts to pull the drive on because the clamping force is a lot higher than the 25lbs... so if something isn't right it could damage it?

 

[Lou C]

I bet the guys in shop get it "close" and then wham it on with an impact gun (cringe)!
There used to be a very knowledgeable Merc tech on here (AChris?) who posted vids of how he got Merc Alphas on, he used a strategy called the Mercruiser Kick.... yes, he put on a boot and kicked the end of the upper gear housing to get it to go IIRC lol...I think he jokingly said he used a Mercruiser approved boot, does anyone else remember that?
We OMC/Volvo guys are a bit more genteel, we sweet talk our drives to sliding on, violence usually doesn't work too well lol.

 

[Lpgc]

I'll try tghtening the middle nuts without using much torque/force, see if I can judge if it's pulling on OK or something is stopping it. Then do as I said and put the drive in gear, disable engine ignition and crank the engine to see if the prop turns... Unless you/anyone thinks that's a bad idea?

 

[Lpgc]

Would it be possible to have the splined shaft through the gimble bearing... but either the end of it miss the coupler splines (so dig into the rubber on the coupler) or for there still to be some kind of problem with Ujoint alignment, while the drive still seems to pull on OK? I just don't want to mess anything up by pulling the drive on that final bit or especially when I crank the engine. If the end of the splied shaft were digging into the coupler rubber or if the Ujoints were not in correct alignment it could cause a lot of damage if I crank the engine.

 

[Lou C]

I'll try tghtening the middle nuts without using much torque/force, see if I can judge if it's pulling on OK or something is stopping it. Then do as I said and put the drive in gear, disable engine ignition and crank the engine to see if the prop turns... Unless you/anyone thinks that's a bad idea?

I'd at least tighten all 6 to 25 ft lbs, and honestly I have some years not even used a torque wrench, just get it good and tight, and never has a problem doing it that way. Even 50 ft lbs isn't that much.

 

[Lou C]

Would it be possible to have the splined shaft through the gimble bearing... but either the end of it miss the coupler splines (so dig into the rubber on the coupler) or for there still to be some kind of problem with Ujoint alignment, while the drive still seems to pull on OK? I just don't want to mess anything up by pulling the drive on that final bit or especially when I crank the engine. If the end of the splied shaft were digging into the coupler rubber or if the Ujoints were not in correct alignment it could cause a lot of damage if I crank the engine.

If the splined shaft didn't go in the coupler the drive won't even be close to going on, either it's going in, or not but if not, you won't even be able to get the mount holes on the drive onto the studs. I forget how many inches of the driveshaft is actually in the coupler splines but it's probably about 2", maybe a bit more.

 

[Horigan]

I made a dolly cart from a $14 Harbor Freight cart, adding 2x6s to build a structure the drive will sit on. You need to be able to get your hands into the bellows and on the U-joint to hold it up and centered, even with the splines started, while you wiggle the U-joint while pushing the drive/cart in.
Dolly Cart

 

[Lou C]

Post up a pic of the way you are supporting the drive, from the side, let's see what is happening there.
I have also heard of people modifying motorcycle jacks to lift outdrives.
Anything it better than trying to man-handle it on, that's a sure recipe for frustration and back pain.

 

[Lou C]

I made a dolly cart from a $14 Harbor Freight cart, adding 2x6s to build a structure the drive will sit on. You need to be able to get your hands into the bellows and on the U-joint to hold it up and centered, even with the splines started, while you wiggle the U-joint while pushing the drive/cart in.
Dolly Cart

Yep but be careful with your hands in there because it can all of a sudden slight right in, on your finger lol. I use the long thin screwdriver to hold up the double cardan assembly.

 

[Lpgc]

Sorry it's been a while since I posted, I had to break off from the boat when a customer arrived

But I got the drive back on just before the customer arived! It took hardly any torque on the middle nuts to pull it on. I know this customer well, so after I'd sorted his car (Jeep SRT8) I put the drive in gear and asked him to watch the prop shaft while I cranked the engine, it's turning OK so I doubt there can be much wrong with it.

It's dark here now but I'll take a pic of how I supported the drive tomorrow. I haven't finished torquing the nuts fully, then I'll need to reconnect the shift link, put some gear oil in it (I drained the drive before removal), attach the rams and fit the prop.

Maybe take the boat to the river one time before I winterise it just to make sure it's good to go for next season.

Thanks for your help

 

[Lou C]

Glad to be of help to you, all of us backyard/driveway marine "mechanics" have been there done that, and learned a few tricks along the way. If it went on, as you describe, it's probably just fine. This job is all in the setup:
level ground where you are working,
gimble bearing centered with the alignment tool first,
transom mount (OMC and Volvo called it the pivot housing) & outdrive at the same height,
mating edges of the pivot housing and outdrive are parallel to each other,
wheeled jack or platform to slide it on,
long thin screwdriver to work the Ujoints if needed, etc.
Now you know why some saltwater mechanics call I/Os "Double Trouble" lol.

 

[Lpgc]

Thanks Lou.

I've removed an refitted the drive several times before but never had this much trouble before, it's also the first time I've changed a gimble bearing.

For sure it seemed like double trouble when I had to extend the height of my engine crane and remove interior trim from the boat before I could lift the engine out and when I rebuilt the engine lol.

I think I was a bit stronger a couple of years ago, used to be into bodybuilding into my 30's and still had some of that strength so it was less of a problem to lift the drive and shake it around than it is now. In the last couple of years I've had 2 frozen shoulders.

So far today I've filled the drive with fresh 75/90 GL5 fluid, the old stuff that came out before I removed the drive still looked clean with no water in it. Just about to re-attach the rams and might get around to putting the prop back on... But might leave the prop for another day because I want to go out shooting with my young son.

This is how I ended up supporting the drive to help get it on. I previously tried just manhandling it and using a trolley jack without even jacking the boat trailer up. I now have the trailer jacked.

 

[Lpgc]

The threads are damaged on one end of the main pivot pin but I managed to get the nut on tight last year. New pins are expensive so I might cross drill the ends of the pivot pin and put a split pin through the drilled holes to make sure the nut can't come off. I bought 8 new of the hard plastic shims that go in the ends of the rams and drive pin hole but it seems I only have 7 of the soft rubber seals that go on the hard plastic shims. I'll order another rubber but I think it'll be OK to leave one of the rubbers out just for testing the boat one time on the river before winterising it..? Do we coat the pin with grease?

 

[Lou C]

You can probably find the pivot pin on ebay, here in the USA there is a company on ebay by the name of NLA Marine that sells a lot of freshwater used outdrive parts.
Yes for sure grease the pin, with marine grease.
Just another tip, I coat the threads of all bolts/fittings for the outdrive, with Evinrude gasket sealer, or Permatex Aviation sealer, it seals the threads from water getting in and causing corrosion and that makes taking things apart, much easier.
Looking at your boat I can see how it'd be harder to get the drive on due to the Four Winns extended running surface design with the "sponsons" on each side of the transom mount. Might be good for handling but tougher to get in there. That makes getting or fabbing up a rolling jack even more important to make it easier. Using the strap like you have it, there is no way really to keep the drive straight and level, which is what makes it a 15 min job a 2-day ordeal, lol. When we get older my thought is we have just so many years when we can still do this, why do it the hard way? If I do it the easier way I can enjoy doing it a lot longer.
I too used to lift weights in my youth, now I do calisthenics instead of weight lifting, to preserve what joints I have left, lol.
As teenagers we did crazy things, that probably caused later orthopedic problems:
Bench pressing 270 lbs
Dead lift 300 lbs
Clean and jerk, 185 lbs
ah the foolishness of youth and peer pressure...