1997 Johnson 90

[DRAGN3]

Hey guys I have a 1997 Johnson 90 I just acquired. Great compression, 135 on 3 cylinders, 140 on the 4th. I pulled the carbs and cleaned them, drained all fuel from tank, replaced all fuel lines and filters and flushed fuel lines going to carb before putting them back on. Long story short, everytime I put the hood on or take it off it catches at least on spark plug wire and pulls it out of the boot. So, when I 1st attempted to crank her, she fired up but even at full throttle had no power. Discovered one spark plug wire off, fixed it and now she runs well but still has a miss. Will run perfectly for 10 seconds, miss, rinse and repeat. My question is the firing order or proper spark plug wire location? Standing at rear of engine, the right side the top cylinder spark plug wire goes to top coil, bottom goes to bottom. However, left side top goes to bottom and bottom to top! Is that correct? I can only find one pic online and shoes each coil, plug wire going directly to the correlating cylinder?? Please help!!!! Thanks

 

[racerone]

There are 2 different 90 hp model , yes there are.----Model # is ?----And the wires from top coil go to top cylinders.---That is if wires from powerpack are routed correctly.----What color stripe is on the orange wires.----I have a 2000 model 60 degree 90 HP on the bench right now.

 

[DRAGN3]

I

There are 2 different 90 hp model , yes there are.----Model # is ?----And the wires from top coil go to top cylinders.---That is if wires from powerpack are routed correctly.----What color stripe is on the orange wires.----I have a 2000 model 60 degree 90

There are 2 different 90 hp model , yes there are.----Model # is ?----And the wires from top coil go to top cylinders.---That is if wires from powerpack are routed correctly.----What color stripe is on the orange wires.----I have a 2000 model 60 degree 90 HP on the bench right now.

Ok. I added pics hopefully they post!
Mod. No. J90TSLEVA
Ser. No. G 04302527
CE 02/199
Power 65.6 kw
Mass 137 kg
Top left is - orange/purple
Bottom left - orange/pinkish
NOTE: These are the crossed plug wires. Top to bottom, bottom to top
Top Right- orange/blue
Bottom right- orange green

 

[racerone]

Switch those wires as a test.----Normally top coil goes to top cylinder.------And no you can not do any damage if it is correct now !!

 

[oldboat1]

https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/1992_V4.jpg

think the routing you describe is likely correct.

 

[racerone]

The motor left the factory with a number of clips holding plug wires in place.----Normally the top plug wire goes to the top coil.----It does on all those V-4's that I have.

 

[DRAGN3]

Ok guys thanks for the help. I was finally able to splash her. She cranked ok.... idled ok.... I had to raise the high idle for it to crank, after warming for a few I could let the high idle down and shift. I had to be quick about it because most of the time she would die. I started with the wires crossed. She would not throttle up or get on top..... So, I swapped the plug wires to the correct position which was top to top and bottom to bottom. Again, she would not turn up rpms but had noticeably more power. I had the hood off and had noticed fuel bubbling around the red lever on choke solenoid. At the time my wife was driving, engine was full throttle, boat not on top and bogging. So, I decided to reach over and turn the red lever and she came to life!!! I mean she ran like a scalded ape!!!! I learned that I could turn the red lever on choke solenoid about a 1/4 of a turn, leave it in that position and she would crank, idle a run wop with no issues. Any other position was trouble. My tachometer is broke and upon inspection in dash, all the wiring is disconnected.... I have since ordered all oem parts (I plan to keep take offs as spare) but for preventive sake, I have 4 new coils, plug wires, plugs, fuel pump rebuild kit, choke solenoid rebuild kit and the new updated impeller and housing plus a new tachometer in route. I am about to make a new post asking about proper wiring for the tach. It is a Sierra 7000 rpm tach. Or, should I just ask here? Any suggestions, advice, speculation or criticism will be appreciated!

 

[racerone]

The red lever is for manually opening the primer valve.----For running the red lever should be in line with the primer valve body.----If red lever is in partially open position it clearly indicates a problem with carburetors.-----Stop running the motor and sort this out.

 

[DRAGN3]

Ok guys thanks for the help. I was finally able to splash her. She cranked ok.... idled ok.... I had to raise the high idle for it to crank, after warming for a few I could let the high idle down and shift. I had to be quick about it because most of the time she would die. I started with the wires crossed. She would not throttle up or get on top..... So, I swapped the plug wires to the correct position which was top to top and bottom to bottom. Again, she would not turn up rpms but had noticeably more power. I had the hood off and had noticed fuel bubbling around the red lever on choke solenoid. At the time my wife was driving, engine was full throttle, boat not on top and bogging. So, I decided to reach over and turn the red lever and she came to life!!! I mean she ran like a scalded ape!!!! I learned that I could turn the red lever on choke solenoid about a 1/4 of a turn, leave it in that position and she would crank, idle a run wop with no issues. Any other position was trouble. My tachometer is broke and upon inspection in dash, all the wiring is disconnected.... I have since ordered all oem parts (I plan to keep take offs as spare) but for preventive sake, I have 4 new coils, plug wires, plugs, fuel pump rebuild kit, choke solenoid rebuild kit and the new updated impeller and housing plus a new tachometer in route. I am about to make a new post asking about proper wiring for the tach. It is a Sierra 7000 rpm tach. Or, should I just ask here? Any suggestions, advice, speculation or criticism will be appreciated!

The red lever is for manually opening the primer valve.----For running the red lever should be in line with the primer valve body.----If red lever is in partially open position it clearly indicates a problem with carburetors.-----Stop running the motor and sort this out.

Yes sir. I only ran it long enough for the test run/Mayden voyage! I went through Carbs initially and they were clean as a whistle! Slight and I mean slight tarnish in one of the bowls but I sprayed carb cleaner and compresses air through, check the float level etc and everything seemed fine. I was hoping the 1/4 turn issue was due to the air or fuel escaping feom O-ring located on red lever? I will have that solved among other things for the next run....

 

[DRAGN3]

Now that I think of it, the red lever was not in line with the primer valve and I actually turned in unknowingly to the correct position! It was in the incorrect position when I purchased it!