1998 wellcraft 240 SE 5.7 issues Prop Or engine?

[jws123]

we can look that number up and see

Ok il get it when i go on the boat this weekend. i feel like its going to be the wrong outdrive tho guy said it was rebuilt before i got it so who knows what they did no numbers stamped on it when i checked how would i find the ratio?

 

[jws123]

And this was determined by the TAG on the block just above the starter?

OK so got some info engine serial number K1s6500 and it has a 1.5 ratio drive turned the engine over 1 and a half times and the prop spun once.

 

[Bt Doctur]

no results using that number sequence? 0K156500 comes back as a 4.3 motor

 

[jws123]

no results using that number sequence? 0K156500 comes back as a 4.3 motor

hard to tell what some of letters are but here is a picture https://imgur.com/a/vrLJ6GW just o verify couldn't tell if the S was a 6 or not.

 

[Bt Doctur]

try rubbing it with some very fine sandpaper and use a pencil scraped over the numbers

 

[Bt Doctur]

took the pic and enlarged it and cam up with this 0K196500
`97 5.7 2 barrel
0K001527 thru 0K999999

 

[jws123]

took the pic and enlarged it and cam up with this 0K196500
`97 5.7 2 barrel
0K001527 thru 0K999999

lol well then i guess im back to square 1... if its not the outdrive or the engine must be the prop... running a 17 pitch prop currently going to try the 15 again... i even have a 19 probably will make it worse but im at a loss now so trying anything. open to suggestions

 

[slag]

IGNORE MY LAST POST SOMETHING STILL IS NOT RIGHT BACK TO SQUARE 1 yes the new prop did help but something is not right i see my modle boat gettin 35-40mph or so...

what one do you have? and does it have a 5.7 merc? going to make a new thread ether my outdrive is the wrong one or its still the prop i cant get past 15-20mph and thats with me full throttle 4100 rps that's all i can get outa it if i go up in pitch i would make it worse no?

I have a 1998 Wellcraft 2000SS but with the Volvo Penta 5.7 liter, 260 hp I think, and VP outdrive.

 

[jws123]

about a year later but the saga continues LOL love the boat but tired of having people blow past me few updates turns out i was trimming it wrong all last year found the sweet spot for my boat only figured that out at end of season:embarassed:. Still usin 15/1/2 17p prop gets out of water fine but still can only hit bout 25mph at 4100 rpms my wot appears to be about 4500rpms i gunned it when i was out the other day thats what it went up to. And being that i cant find another boat that is decent guess i will keep goin at this til i figure it out :laugh: I am about to try the 15p prop i bought last year aswell as i have a old 19p prop that i am going to try for the fk of it not sure what to do anymore hahahah

 

[wahlejim]

Weigh the boat. Take it to a truck scale and weigh the boat. Rule out waterlogged foam, etc before you sink more money into wild guesses on a prop.

 

[jws123]

Weigh the boat. Take it to a truck scale and weigh the boat. Rule out waterlogged foam, etc before you sink more money into wild guesses on a prop.

if that was the case wouldn't it feel heavy on trailer? also does not sit low in water or anything how would foam get wet? i am sure if there was a leak it would of sunk by now hahaha its been in the slip past 2 seasons. Also case anyone brings it up i yanked it out of water a week ago to check bottom for growth it was clean

 

[wahlejim]

if that was the case wouldn't it feel heavy on trailer? also does not sit low in water or anything how would foam get wet? i am sure if there was a leak it would of sunk by now hahaha its been in the slip past 2 seasons. Also case anyone brings it up i yanked it out of water a week ago to check bottom for growth it was clean

Not necessarily. With a boat that big, you may not feel a couple hundred pounds of weight on the trailer when trailering, especially if it was a gradual increase over time. Water intrusion is rarely a sudden occurrence and doesn't penetrate through the hull. Rather, it is gradual and often occurs through smaller, non-visible intrusion points in the floor, transom, or attachments (ie where the seats or other items are attached to the floor). Water can get in through a failure point in a cover since the boat is slipped, boating in precipitation, or a surprising amount of water is introduced inside the boat when people climb in and out of the water.

I am not saying this is definitively the cause, but probably a worst case scenario that is worth ruling out before throwing money at other WAGs. It is cheap and easy to do. I have seen people try to correct this vary issue, going as far as installing trim tabs on a 20+ year old boat that did not have these symptoms previously, only to find out it needed a complete rebuild. Based on the age of the boat, the fact it is slipped and could be taking on water when it rains, and how easy and cheap it is to rule out a worst case scenario, that would be my first step. Just my .02

 

[nola mike]

You still haven't checked compression or verified that you're firing on all 8 have you? You don't have prop issue,you have a power issue (or weight issue).

 

[jws123]

You still haven't checked compression or verified that you're firing on all 8 have you? You don't have prop issue,you have a power issue (or weight issue).

oh yea i check it all cylinders before i put it in this season ranged from 135-150 and if it was a power issue then i shouldn't be able to get up to wot correct? which i can Not sure how to get access to foam or where it would be in my boat the only possible place i could see it getting wet because of my boats design is in the back by engine all my seats are either bilt into the boat or over my cabin so if it was leaking threw i would notice. Boat also has a lot of drains that go out side of boat engine bay normally stays dry when it rains but before i got this boat it was sitting for about 5 years un covered boat has been the same since i got it has never gone fast.

 

[garbageguy]

I have the same boat with a GM 5.7 and VP SX outdrive. Repowered it a few years ago w/a long block as the existing (I assume original) engine had significant blow-by, and the stars line-up for that one - so glad we did that. It is a heavy, not fast, boat. Tach says we get on plane on initial rev to about 3400 rpm, usually cruise at about 3200 rpm comfortably on plane, not pushing it. If we have more people on boat, gotta turn the engine faster to get on plane, but it will.

So ya, maybe you have a power and/or weight issue, if you've corrected your power-up/trimming/tabbing procedures.

 

[jws123]

I have the same boat with a GM 5.7 and VP SX outdrive. Repowered it a few years ago w/a long block as the existing (I assume original) engine had significant blow-by, and the stars line-up for that one - so glad we did that. It is a heavy, not fast, boat. Tach says we get on plane on initial rev to about 3400 rpm, usually cruise at about 3200 rpm comfortably on plane, not pushing it. If we have more people on boat, gotta turn the engine faster to get on plane, but it will.

So ya, maybe you have a power and/or weight issue, if you've corrected your power-up/trimming/tabbing procedures.

I dont expect a race boat ofc lol but i do expect to see at least 35 mph or so i am pushing 4k rpm to almost get 20mph what are your speeds?no idea if it was ever rebuilt. I will see if there is somewhere near me i can have the boat weighed how much should it weigh with nothing in the boat all cleaned out on the trailer? btw also what prop are you running?

AS far as blow by i took cap off valve cover when running and had some air but nothing crazy i think. Buti do notice when i stop the boat there is a oil smell not oil leak but oil crank case kinda smell i had to clean my flame arrestor once it got all clogged up also sometimes you see like a steam/smoke coming out of the valve covers/tubes to the flame arrestor but my old boat did that to. I am going to get a vid of what i am talking about.

 

[nola mike]

You can reach wot rpms if you're underpropped and have a power problem, you just won't go fast (like you're doing). You can definitely have a waterlogged boat, and having sat outside for 5 years. ..
the foam is beneath your floor. It's inaccessible unless to tear stuff up. Agree that I'd start with a weighing, should be able to find the specs somewhere. The hull I just junked weighed 1k more than it was supposed to, and that was without the motor. Check very carefully around the boat for soft spots in the floor, especially near the stern, seats,ski lockers,etc.

 

[nola mike]

And you still haven't verified spark to all your cylinders?

 

[jws123]

And you still haven't verified spark to all your cylinders?

i have it runs fine am 100% sure has nothing to do with spark and or carb related its all in good shape fires right up every time without any throttle runs smooth. I am sure the motor is a lil tired had someone look at it they think the same probably going to rebuild it over the winter but first i am going to go get it weighed next time i pull it found the papers on it says 4500 dry weight i assume that doesnt include trailer and fuel so will try to run tank low before i do it but i dont think its heavy but guess its better to know b4 i dump more $$. also no soft anywhere on the boat how the boat is made is most of the floor is over the cabin.

 

[porscheguy]

Are you reporting speed based on GPS, or the speedometer?

A ‘97 wellcraft with a 5.7 base engine (doesn’t matter if Mercruiser or VP) would be a vortec series 5.7 w/roller cam. You can rev them right up to their maximum 4800rpm without worrying that it will blow up. FWIW, if it does blow up, the engine was going to fail anyway.

i would run it again with the 15p prop. As I said last year, when wellcraft tested the boat, they used a 15p with an engine that made an extra 50hp. I didn’t see whether you used GPS to determine your speed, but if you’re not using it, you need to start. Boat speedometers tend to be less accurate than boat tachs. Lastly, on a boat that is underpowered proper trim is essential. If your trim is way off, you can lose a lot of performance. Also read the owner’s manual for Bennett trim tabs. Many people mistakenly think that the tab operation correlated to tab switch position. In other words, they think that pressing the port side switch up, means the port side tab comes up. In reality it pushes the starboard tab down.

Let us know now what happens.